ckuske Posted June 22, 2022 Author Share Posted June 22, 2022 Got the dash bolted in but not everything cinched tight yet as I am leaving the trim install until after I get carpet installed, which is a ways down the road. I have speakers on order from Crutchfield (https://www.crutchfield.com/product/item/default.aspx?i=20647KSC65), along with speaker wire to can check out the radio and tape player for that vintage mid-80's sound . I think I'm going to run just plastic conduit between the door and the cab for the wires to run through. Electrical tape was used previously. Thoughts? Also, looking through the EVTM (see https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1501633-speaker-wire-color.html) it looks like the negative wire from each speaker runs back to the Black/White Hash wire on the speaker connector. Is that correct? Just twist the two negative wires together and crimp that onto the "287" wire on the harness??? I also started the truck for the first time in a few months. I had noticed last time that there was some power steering fluid on the ground after running it, but I was hoping it was leftover from when I replaced the hoses. There seems to be fluid coming out from the nut that fastens the high pressure line going into the gearbox - I believe that end is flared. Before I take it off and inspect it, should there be an O-ring or anything else on that side to help with the seal? I only recall an O-ring on the side that went into the pump. The oil burning from the rear area of the passenger valve cover is back as well. Now that the fan/vents are fully functional, the cab stinks pretty quickly. I thought it was fixed - maybe it comes and goes depending on how much the truck is run? (Seals when run more often) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted June 22, 2022 Share Posted June 22, 2022 I also started the truck for the first time in a few months. I had noticed last time that there was some power steering fluid on the ground after running it, but I was hoping it was leftover from when I replaced the hoses. There seems to be fluid coming out from the nut that fastens the high pressure line going into the gearbox - I believe that end is flared. Before I take it off and inspect it, should there be an O-ring or anything else on that side to help with the seal? I only recall an O-ring on the side that went into the pump. The oil burning from the rear area of the passenger valve cover is back as well. Now that the fan/vents are fully functional, the cab stinks pretty quickly. I thought it was fixed - maybe it comes and goes depending on how much the truck is run? (Seals when run more often) the two lines going to the steering gear are flared. tighten them to seal or it may be that a new line is in order. on the valve cover, it's just time for new gaskets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted June 22, 2022 Author Share Posted June 22, 2022 the two lines going to the steering gear are flared. tighten them to seal or it may be that a new line is in order. on the valve cover, it's just time for new gaskets. I just replaced the gaskets on the valve covers because I took them off to paint them... The new ones are silicone and I reseated the troublesome once already. I'll torque the PS hose connections again - I replaced both hoses. Return line is fine, but the high pressure one seems to leak fluid. I'll keep you guys updated, thanks for the reply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted June 23, 2022 Share Posted June 23, 2022 I just replaced the gaskets on the valve covers because I took them off to paint them... The new ones are silicone and I reseated the troublesome once already. I'll torque the PS hose connections again - I replaced both hoses. Return line is fine, but the high pressure one seems to leak fluid. I'll keep you guys updated, thanks for the reply. i have also had issues with "new and improved" gaskets. not really a fan of the silicone ones. they are great in theory yet i have had them weep and rather quickly. if they are not really any better than cork I feel ripped off from the expense and salesmanship. the best valve cover gaskets i have found are the factory ones from the late 80s through the 90s. steel with an embossed o ring type seal. rock solid as far as gaskets go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted June 24, 2022 Author Share Posted June 24, 2022 i have also had issues with "new and improved" gaskets. not really a fan of the silicone ones. they are great in theory yet i have had them weep and rather quickly. if they are not really any better than cork I feel ripped off from the expense and salesmanship. the best valve cover gaskets i have found are the factory ones from the late 80s through the 90s. steel with an embossed o ring type seal. rock solid as far as gaskets go. Yeah, I am getting ready to take my truck into a shop in the next month or two. I may just have them look at it instead of me trying for the third time... I am getting to the point where I want to drive it even if it costs more to have some work done. I'm almost to my fifth year... In other news, I got the radio and speakers wired in. My suspicion seems to be correct. The radio does in fact not work. No audio at all from the radio, not even static on AM or FM. And, the cassette player does not engage. I'm pretty upset about that, as I paid $215 for the radio a couple years back on eBay. I guess I shouldn't have trusted that the radio worked (even though it was "fully tested and functional" in the listing), but I didn't have the means to test it when it arrived. Another lesson learned... That being said, there two things - based on the EVTM I wrapped the negative wires for each speaker to the ground wire on the factory speaker connector, and also wrapped the front/rear wires on the connector the positive wire per side (driver/passenger). This seemed correct, but did I goof anything up there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 25, 2022 Share Posted June 25, 2022 Yeah, I am getting ready to take my truck into a shop in the next month or two. I may just have them look at it instead of me trying for the third time... I am getting to the point where I want to drive it even if it costs more to have some work done. I'm almost to my fifth year... In other news, I got the radio and speakers wired in. My suspicion seems to be correct. The radio does in fact not work. No audio at all from the radio, not even static on AM or FM. And, the cassette player does not engage. I'm pretty upset about that, as I paid $215 for the radio a couple years back on eBay. I guess I shouldn't have trusted that the radio worked (even though it was "fully tested and functional" in the listing), but I didn't have the means to test it when it arrived. Another lesson learned... That being said, there two things - based on the EVTM I wrapped the negative wires for each speaker to the ground wire on the factory speaker connector, and also wrapped the front/rear wires on the connector the positive wire per side (driver/passenger). This seemed correct, but did I goof anything up there? Chris - That's a bummer! Sorry! On the wiring, while I think you have it right, I'd put the radio and a speaker on the bench and see if maybe they'll work that way. That takes the truck wiring out of the equation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted June 25, 2022 Share Posted June 25, 2022 Chris - That's a bummer! Sorry! On the wiring, while I think you have it right, I'd put the radio and a speaker on the bench and see if maybe they'll work that way. That takes the truck wiring out of the equation. That is a bummer about the radio. That is how I tested my radio on the bench ...... well it was on the radiator support as I did not have a battery or power supply to use on the bench. A few jumper wires from battery to radio and speakers. On the valve cover and oil leak. too many years ago I had a 318 Dodge 4x4 PU that leaked and I was using new cork gaskets. It was only 1 side I must have pulled that cover off 6 times before I found the issue. The factory bolts used washers and 1 washer cut the valve cover on the inside. When the bolt was pulling the cover down it opened up the cut and oil leaked out. I would pull the cover, cut then closed up, and all would look good. Wounder if you could have that happening? Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted June 25, 2022 Author Share Posted June 25, 2022 Chris - That's a bummer! Sorry! On the wiring, while I think you have it right, I'd put the radio and a speaker on the bench and see if maybe they'll work that way. That takes the truck wiring out of the equation. Thanks Gary, things happen! It wouldn't be much fun if everything worked as expected Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted June 25, 2022 Author Share Posted June 25, 2022 Chris - That's a bummer! Sorry! On the wiring, while I think you have it right, I'd put the radio and a speaker on the bench and see if maybe they'll work that way. That takes the truck wiring out of the equation. That is a bummer about the radio. That is how I tested my radio on the bench ...... well it was on the radiator support as I did not have a battery or power supply to use on the bench. A few jumper wires from battery to radio and speakers. On the valve cover and oil leak. too many years ago I had a 318 Dodge 4x4 PU that leaked and I was using new cork gaskets. It was only 1 side I must have pulled that cover off 6 times before I found the issue. The factory bolts used washers and 1 washer cut the valve cover on the inside. When the bolt was pulling the cover down it opened up the cut and oil leaked out. I would pull the cover, cut then closed up, and all would look good. Wounder if you could have that happening? Dave ---- I was wondering if it was something like that as well. I tried to make sure the cover was nice and flat, clean, all the things. I may try a cork gasket next to see if things improve. I torqued the bolts again this morning, we will see if that helps like I thought it did last time??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted September 24, 2022 Author Share Posted September 24, 2022 I was wondering if it was something like that as well. I tried to make sure the cover was nice and flat, clean, all the things. I may try a cork gasket next to see if things improve. I torqued the bolts again this morning, we will see if that helps like I thought it did last time??? Just putting my recent thread here in here so I can look through this all later, or others can laugh ;) In other news, tried to start the truck after finishing the wiring and clean KOEO. Wouldn't start... started for a second, died. Start for a second, died. Repeatedly. It was acting like it was starved for fuel. It finally started after my battery was almost dead. When it did start and stay running, it had a serious miss and RPMs were wondering all over the place. I was afraid I had munged something in the wiring work. I ran code reader again - KOEO still clean, but continuous memory now says MAP sensor is bad... (Code 31). Probed the connector. Power is good (5v), ground is good - no pulses coming out of signal wire (0 Hz, should be around 150 Hz with normal atmospheric pressure). Signal wire is outputting 2.5 volts. I assume this sensor uses pulse code modulation... It *was* working... Ordered a new one, hopefully that gets it running smoothly. Will check signals again (and vacuum line to be sure) before I even try to start it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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