kramttocs Posted May 20, 2022 Share Posted May 20, 2022 I've painted everything except the door panels so I've started to reinstall the dash. I'm in the middle of my second attempt. The first attempt I mounted the AC ducts to the dash before trying to mount the dash to the firewall. That didn't work well with getting all the wires back to where they were supposed to be. So, I took off the ducts and have gotten the wire bundles in their approximate locations. Near the glove box and above the radio, I have the main bundle attached via the trim screws that hold the loom to the back/top of the dash via a "wrapper" (not sure on the real nomenclature) that encapsulates the wiring bundle with clips on it that allow trim screws to hold the wrapped to the dash. Where I'm a little fuzzy is how/where the bundle is routed from the fuse box to the radio area - I see the same sort of mounting points on the bundle to screw it to the dash via two more "wrappers", but the pictures I took (2 years ago!) don't reveal where these two points should be. Does anyone recall where the bundle is attached to the dash from the drivers door to near the radio portion of the dash? Pictures would be a big help but only if you have one already - I don't expect people to tear their dash apart to send me one. Does this image help? Those wrappers screw to the metal frame that runs across the top over the gauge cluster. Working with AC ducts while doing this is 'fun'. I believe what I did was leave the duct that goes behind the gauges out first and then once everything is in, unscrew the upper side screws of the dash (that go near the A pillar) and tilt the dash outward. It still required some 'squishing' of the duct from what I recall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted May 20, 2022 Share Posted May 20, 2022 Does this image help? Those wrappers screw to the metal frame that runs across the top over the gauge cluster. Working with AC ducts while doing this is 'fun'. I believe what I did was leave the duct that goes behind the gauges out first and then once everything is in, unscrew the upper side screws of the dash (that go near the A pillar) and tilt the dash outward. It still required some 'squishing' of the duct from what I recall. You may or may not have the retainer that holds the bundle to the parking brake. I've only ever seen it on manuals and not even all of those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 20, 2022 Share Posted May 20, 2022 I've painted everything except the door panels so I've started to reinstall the dash. I'm in the middle of my second attempt. The first attempt I mounted the AC ducts to the dash before trying to mount the dash to the firewall. That didn't work well with getting all the wires back to where they were supposed to be. So, I took off the ducts and have gotten the wire bundles in their approximate locations. Near the glove box and above the radio, I have the main bundle attached via the trim screws that hold the loom to the back/top of the dash via a "wrapper" (not sure on the real nomenclature) that encapsulates the wiring bundle with clips on it that allow trim screws to hold the wrapped to the dash. Where I'm a little fuzzy is how/where the bundle is routed from the fuse box to the radio area - I see the same sort of mounting points on the bundle to screw it to the dash via two more "wrappers", but the pictures I took (2 years ago!) don't reveal where these two points should be. Does anyone recall where the bundle is attached to the dash from the drivers door to near the radio portion of the dash? Pictures would be a big help but only if you have one already - I don't expect people to tear their dash apart to send me one. Does this help? I have a few others but I think this is the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted May 20, 2022 Author Share Posted May 20, 2022 Does this help? I have a few others but I think this is the best. Thanks to you both! Yep, both have turned out to be very useful! I forgot about the EVTM as well. Silly me. I will hopefully have some time to get this finished off this weekend between family activities (of which there are many) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted May 24, 2022 Share Posted May 24, 2022 Thanks to you both! Yep, both have turned out to be very useful! I forgot about the EVTM as well. Silly me. I will hopefully have some time to get this finished off this weekend between family activities (of which there are many) I see a lot of wiring in that blue dashboard that was not installed at the factory. what's going on in there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 24, 2022 Share Posted May 24, 2022 I see a lot of wiring in that blue dashboard that was not installed at the factory. what's going on in there? I assume you mean mine. Well, there is Mission Control with switches for the front locker, aux power, the inverter, fog lights, backup lights, and air compressor. And there’s a full-blown security system residing under there as well, with door lock controls, impact sensor, and ignition kill. And the dash cam system, with front and rear camera has a wire or two as well in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted May 24, 2022 Share Posted May 24, 2022 I assume you mean mine. Well, there is Mission Control with switches for the front locker, aux power, the inverter, fog lights, backup lights, and air compressor. And there’s a full-blown security system residing under there as well, with door lock controls, impact sensor, and ignition kill. And the dash cam system, with front and rear camera has a wire or two as well in there. I would say anyone wanting to pull the dash, AC or non-AC, is pull the wiring with it. I had to swap the wiring & dash from my AC parts truck in to my non-AC truck, after a fire wall swap so I could have AC in the non-AC truck. I took the wiring with the dash. It was easy just mark & disconnect everything from in the engine bay and as you are pulling the dash from the firewall push the wiring into the cab. Here you can see how I pulled the wiring, ducts with the dash from the parts truck. It went into my truck the same way after I restored it below. Here you can see some of the wiring on the right side. That would be for everything going out the fire wall on the right side engine bay. I dont think I would ever try and remove the dash with out taking the wiring & duct work with it. Mine did have the "loop" that the fuse box wires went through and IIRC went up and over the pedal assy. to the top of the dash. Truck is a 81 F100 manual Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted May 25, 2022 Share Posted May 25, 2022 I would say anyone wanting to pull the dash, AC or non-AC, is pull the wiring with it. I had to swap the wiring & dash from my AC parts truck in to my non-AC truck, after a fire wall swap so I could have AC in the non-AC truck. I took the wiring with the dash. It was easy just mark & disconnect everything from in the engine bay and as you are pulling the dash from the firewall push the wiring into the cab. Here you can see how I pulled the wiring, ducts with the dash from the parts truck. It went into my truck the same way after I restored it below. Here you can see some of the wiring on the right side. That would be for everything going out the fire wall on the right side engine bay. I dont think I would ever try and remove the dash with out taking the wiring & duct work with it. Mine did have the "loop" that the fuse box wires went through and IIRC went up and over the pedal assy. to the top of the dash. Truck is a 81 F100 manual Dave ---- absolutely. pull all wiring back through the firewall and then pull the dash loose. with the steering column out, you show the easiest (and the best way to do it without damaging old plastics) with getting it loose and laying it on the seat. two people is very helpful. the ductwork is mounted to the dash anyway and only butts up to the air handler with a foam gasket. anyone in this stage should be looking over all damper doors and vacuum motors while right there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted May 25, 2022 Share Posted May 25, 2022 absolutely. pull all wiring back through the firewall and then pull the dash loose. with the steering column out, you show the easiest (and the best way to do it without damaging old plastics) with getting it loose and laying it on the seat. two people is very helpful. the ductwork is mounted to the dash anyway and only butts up to the air handler with a foam gasket. anyone in this stage should be looking over all damper doors and vacuum motors while right there. When I first started the dash & wire removal I was freaking out AsI knew it was going to be a wile before it went into my truck but felt it was best doing the dash & harness as a whole. With everything marked on the wires before unhooked and any dash bolts & screws bagged & tagged going back together was real easy. All the wires fell into place as they were going back to the same places. It was really not as bad as I thought it would have been. Yes pull dash & wiring as a whole unit is the only way to go Now you tell me about the damper doors & vacuum motors When I had my HVAC box off the fire wall I did not know it was something that needed looking into. So far (knock on wood) the door hinge is good and the motors all work for the most part. I have a bad vacuum check valve on the juice can and when under load the doors swing from AC vents to defrost till I am back to normal load. I have bought new ones and they all did the same thing Maybe a need a 2nd can for more capacity? It really is not that big a deal but would be nice if it worked right when the AC is on. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted May 25, 2022 Share Posted May 25, 2022 absolutely. pull all wiring back through the firewall and then pull the dash loose. with the steering column out, you show the easiest (and the best way to do it without damaging old plastics) with getting it loose and laying it on the seat. two people is very helpful. the ductwork is mounted to the dash anyway and only butts up to the air handler with a foam gasket. anyone in this stage should be looking over all damper doors and vacuum motors while right there. When I first started the dash & wire removal I was freaking out AsI knew it was going to be a wile before it went into my truck but felt it was best doing the dash & harness as a whole. With everything marked on the wires before unhooked and any dash bolts & screws bagged & tagged going back together was real easy. All the wires fell into place as they were going back to the same places. It was really not as bad as I thought it would have been. Yes pull dash & wiring as a whole unit is the only way to go Now you tell me about the damper doors & vacuum motors When I had my HVAC box off the fire wall I did not know it was something that needed looking into. So far (knock on wood) the door hinge is good and the motors all work for the most part. I have a bad vacuum check valve on the juice can and when under load the doors swing from AC vents to defrost till I am back to normal load. I have bought new ones and they all did the same thing Maybe a need a 2nd can for more capacity? It really is not that big a deal but would be nice if it worked right when the AC is on. Dave ---- one of the best tips is "use the cameras available " take pics of every ground point and plug combinations and where anchor loops are. the grommets through the firewall are very self-explanatory. vacuum lines are too but be careful with the hard plastic lines. very fragile! the vacuum motor on the ac under the hood is the one which will change the air from vent to recirculation. it is the one most vulnerable to broken vacuum lines due to underhood heat. another very distinct potential vacuum leak is the actual vacuum switch mounted to the side of the hvac control. it is made as two halves and are staked together with metal tabs. they are susceptible to heat warpage and that can allow vacuum loss within it. prove all other vacuum circuits first of course but don't assume that its good or bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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