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Old Blue - 1984 XL Flareside


ckuske

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That's good advice! Glad you are doing something with him.

And that Evaporust might be just the ticket for cleaning things up. :nabble_smiley_good:

So my son and I tried our hands at brazing - it ain't pretty, but it seems to have worked and seems solid. I thought I was done, but then shined a flashlight from underneath the floor pan upwards, and more holes revealed themselves.

Since the picture, I have sprayed the entire passenger area floor pan with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. I have also found a site to order an aerosol paint kit of my factory color (interior is still painted this way), with a separate clear coat etc from expresspaint.com (anyone use them before?). Since all this is going to be under the carpet etc, this should be good enough and it'll help prevent future issues/rust.

IMG_3070.jpg.1f406b306283c33e482351e1428a4494.jpg

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So my son and I tried our hands at brazing - it ain't pretty, but it seems to have worked and seems solid. I thought I was done, but then shined a flashlight from underneath the floor pan upwards, and more holes revealed themselves.

Since the picture, I have sprayed the entire passenger area floor pan with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. I have also found a site to order an aerosol paint kit of my factory color (interior is still painted this way), with a separate clear coat etc from expresspaint.com (anyone use them before?). Since all this is going to be under the carpet etc, this should be good enough and it'll help prevent future issues/rust.

Well done :nabble_smiley_good:

Looks a lot better than when I tried to braze last.

I really like the Eastwood product. I've always brushed the quarts on but I assume the aerosol covered well?

Never heard of them - most use SEM.

Are you saying this will just be for the floor?

If so, have you considered some sound deadener/heat barrier instead?

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So my son and I tried our hands at brazing - it ain't pretty, but it seems to have worked and seems solid. I thought I was done, but then shined a flashlight from underneath the floor pan upwards, and more holes revealed themselves.

Since the picture, I have sprayed the entire passenger area floor pan with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. I have also found a site to order an aerosol paint kit of my factory color (interior is still painted this way), with a separate clear coat etc from expresspaint.com (anyone use them before?). Since all this is going to be under the carpet etc, this should be good enough and it'll help prevent future issues/rust.

Looks good, Chris. :nabble_anim_claps:

As for painting the floor, do you need to add something to the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator? I use POR15 and that's what I painted Big Blue's floor with after brazing it. That seals the rust and any pin holes that might still be in the floor.

Over the POR went sound deadener that goes down with adhesive on it, so it won't be sliding and there's no friction on the POR so it should last forever.

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Looks good, Chris. :nabble_anim_claps:

As for painting the floor, do you need to add something to the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator? I use POR15 and that's what I painted Big Blue's floor with after brazing it. That seals the rust and any pin holes that might still be in the floor.

Over the POR went sound deadener that goes down with adhesive on it, so it won't be sliding and there's no friction on the POR so it should last forever.

Thanks for the feedback Scott and Gary!

Gary, you're right that POR15 would be a good solution to seal the floor against any other pinholes etc that may be present. There were a few tiny ones that I left (like a pinprick size), because I was getting nervous about the amount of times I got the floor red hot. I'll consider that. The perfectionist side of me wants to have the original color paint on the floor, but the practical side of me goes "why does it matter?! no one will ever know the difference!" (except me). Regarding adding anything to POR15 - the rust encapsulator is what I used on my frame underneath the Chassis Black as recommended by Eastwood. I figured if it was good enough for the frame, it'd be good enough for the cab? (Wondering aloud). I will probably try to re-paint over the existing Midnight Blue in hard to reach areas (behind the seat, etc). I figure it will save me money down the road when I get the rest of the truck painted assuming it turns out well.

Scott, I'm definitely going to put something down over the bare metal. I know there are different opinions as to what is the "best" one, but something like Dynamat is definitely part of the plan. Over that will go carpet or possibly a rubber mat - the truck originally had the rubber mat but I'm not sure which way I want to go yet.

I was on target to get the SEM paint to paint all the plastic in the cab to put the interior back together, but the floor has steered me in a different direction for now.

I guess I do need to decide on insulation material - I was going to do the floor, rear of the cab, and doors. What have you guys used? Dynamat? Opinions???

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Thanks for the feedback Scott and Gary!

Gary, you're right that POR15 would be a good solution to seal the floor against any other pinholes etc that may be present. There were a few tiny ones that I left (like a pinprick size), because I was getting nervous about the amount of times I got the floor red hot. I'll consider that. The perfectionist side of me wants to have the original color paint on the floor, but the practical side of me goes "why does it matter?! no one will ever know the difference!" (except me). Regarding adding anything to POR15 - the rust encapsulator is what I used on my frame underneath the Chassis Black as recommended by Eastwood. I figured if it was good enough for the frame, it'd be good enough for the cab? (Wondering aloud). I will probably try to re-paint over the existing Midnight Blue in hard to reach areas (behind the seat, etc). I figure it will save me money down the road when I get the rest of the truck painted assuming it turns out well.

Scott, I'm definitely going to put something down over the bare metal. I know there are different opinions as to what is the "best" one, but something like Dynamat is definitely part of the plan. Over that will go carpet or possibly a rubber mat - the truck originally had the rubber mat but I'm not sure which way I want to go yet.

I was on target to get the SEM paint to paint all the plastic in the cab to put the interior back together, but the floor has steered me in a different direction for now.

I guess I do need to decide on insulation material - I was going to do the floor, rear of the cab, and doors. What have you guys used? Dynamat? Opinions???

Sorry, I reread your post and realized you were talking about only the floor the whole time so the SEM doesn't apply there.

Half a dozen (or a dozen) brands out there to choose from :nabble_anim_crazy: but I used the Eastwood mats and would again without hesitation. Their door and hood/headliner options worked fantastic as well.

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Sorry, I reread your post and realized you were talking about only the floor the whole time so the SEM doesn't apply there.

Half a dozen (or a dozen) brands out there to choose from :nabble_anim_crazy: but I used the Eastwood mats and would again without hesitation. Their door and hood/headliner options worked fantastic as well.

I think the Eastwood product would be fine to seal the holes and kill the rust. And since it will be covered with sound deadener and then carpet I don't think I'd paint over that.

And speaking of sound deadener, I uased Noico 80 mil (2 mm) 36 sqft (3.4 sqm) car Sound deadening mat from Amazon. I can't say it is as good as any of the others since I didn't do a test, but it works fine so I'm happy.

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I think the Eastwood product would be fine to seal the holes and kill the rust. And since it will be covered with sound deadener and then carpet I don't think I'd paint over that.

And speaking of sound deadener, I uased Noico 80 mil (2 mm) 36 sqft (3.4 sqm) car Sound deadening mat from Amazon. I can't say it is as good as any of the others since I didn't do a test, but it works fine so I'm happy.

I can tell you with just carpet with its backing made the cab a lot quitter inside over not having anything but 2 coats top & bottom of the floor with roll on bed liner.

The only "sound deadner" I used on my truck was the roofing sealer, Peel & Stick.

I put 2 strips inside the doors on the outside door skin to stop the drum noise.

The fire wall has the factory insulation, back wall nothing.

It's a truck and I am happy with the sound level, I can hear the radio & talk to someone and that is all thats needed LOL

Dave ----

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I can tell you with just carpet with its backing made the cab a lot quitter inside over not having anything but 2 coats top & bottom of the floor with roll on bed liner.

The only "sound deadner" I used on my truck was the roofing sealer, Peel & Stick.

I put 2 strips inside the doors on the outside door skin to stop the drum noise.

The fire wall has the factory insulation, back wall nothing.

It's a truck and I am happy with the sound level, I can hear the radio & talk to someone and that is all thats needed LOL

Dave ----

Dynamat seems the way to go looking at reviews, but sheesh is it expensive!

Thanks for the feedback - I definitely have food for thought.

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Dynamat seems the way to go looking at reviews, but sheesh is it expensive!

Thanks for the feedback - I definitely have food for thought.

Another vote for the Noico 80mil product. I have used this on various vehicles with great results.

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