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Son replaced my carb...now we can't figure out the springs


savoy6

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Recently switched out my mc 2150 for one of the Amazon Chinese ones....now we can't remember how the throttle control springs should be set up..if anyone has any pics of a proper spring set up they would be greatly appreciated
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Would you happen to mean the throttle return springs? So, if the throttle cable breaks, the engine is returned to an idle condition (as opposed to wide open)?

I'm assuming you have a V8 engine (302, 351,...)?

Edit: now that I think about it, the throttle return spring is built into the throttle cable on my truck (1980 F-150). Could you post a pic of your set-up?

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Would you happen to mean the throttle return springs? So, if the throttle cable breaks, the engine is returned to an idle condition (as opposed to wide open)?

I'm assuming you have a V8 engine (302, 351,...)?

Edit: now that I think about it, the throttle return spring is built into the throttle cable on my truck (1980 F-150). Could you post a pic of your set-up?

2150 would definitely be a (non-HO) Windsor. 300's had a YFA single.

HO's got the 4180, going back to the H.O. 5.0 in the Mustang.

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Yes..the throttle return springs..sorry.

It is a 302..since we replaced the carb, the pedal has been hard as hell to push initially. I thought it might be the throttle cable and replaced that but it hasn't made any real difference in the amount of force need the hit the gas.my opinion is that the 2 springs are too heavy and if I remember, I thought there was only one...they got a pack of "replacement" springs for the 2150

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Yes..the throttle return springs..sorry.

It is a 302..since we replaced the carb, the pedal has been hard as hell to push initially. I thought it might be the throttle cable and replaced that but it hasn't made any real difference in the amount of force need the hit the gas.my opinion is that the 2 springs are too heavy and if I remember, I thought there was only one...they got a pack of "replacement" springs for the 2150

Now that I see the picture it could be the relation of the stud to the throttle shaft.

Way forward and down low like that, you're essentially trying to pull directly through the axis.

I realize you're in the upper of two holes but spacing the cable bracket up (even 5/8") would probably help a lot with how stiff the pedal is coming off the stop.

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Now that I see the picture it could be the relation of the stud to the throttle shaft.

Way forward and down low like that, you're essentially trying to pull directly through the axis.

I realize you're in the upper of two holes but spacing the cable bracket up (even 5/8") would probably help a lot with how stiff the pedal is coming off the stop.

Isn't the throttle return spring in the red box making to two lower springs redundant?

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You could remove the lower springs and start it in the driveway. Rev the engine a little to see how the carb reacts to the throttle return spring that's built into the cable. If it seems to work OK, then problem solved. However, if you'd like some redundancy, then put one of the lower springs back on and see how hard it is to push the gas pedal. If it's still too much, find a softer spring at a good local hardware store (or McMaster-Carr). The lower springs are your secondary and tertiary options to keep from going Wide Open Throttle (WOT). Another way to do that is to get two different diameter springs and put one inside the other. That prevents the interlocking of the coils of the two springs near the connecting stud on the carb lever.

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Isn't the throttle return spring in the red box making to two lower springs redundant?

You could remove the lower springs and start it in the driveway. Rev the engine a little to see how the carb reacts to the throttle return spring that's built into the cable. If it seems to work OK, then problem solved. However, if you'd like some redundancy, then put one of the lower springs back on and see how hard it is to push the gas pedal. If it's still too much, find a softer spring at a good local hardware store (or McMaster-Carr). The lower springs are your secondary and tertiary options to keep from going Wide Open Throttle (WOT). Another way to do that is to get two different diameter springs and put one inside the other. That prevents the interlocking of the coils of the two springs near the connecting stud on the carb lever.

Not if the cable end pops off the ball stud, which is what the (typically single) return spring is meant to guard against

Edit to add: Typically, nested springs are wound in opposite directions (clockwise & counterclockwise) so they can't bind each other up. 💡

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Not if the cable end pops off the ball stud, which is what the (typically single) return spring is meant to guard against

I've had that happen, and w/o a return spring on the carb linkage itself it could have been bad as I was climbing a steep hill and had quite a bit of throttle on it.

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