Gary Lewis Posted August 11 Share Posted August 11 I know 70 very well. I did not see where you said that you had an aod problem. possibly a different thread. but you drove it home. which bushing are you referring to in the tv cable? the efi end has the tear drop slip on which should have a slight detent feel as it snaps onto the throttle stud. and the trans lever end has the 90 degree ball detent. were either of these disconnected when you drove it? No, we don't ALL need more to do. I certainly don't. Was offered a good deal on a 53 Ford wagon but turned it down. I'm knee deep in projects and woefully short on time - every way you measure it. Anyway, this is an interesting project and I'm happy to tag along. But I don't have any tips - except that there is no such thing as too many grounds. (I know that's not 100% true when you get into electronics with microamp circuits, but we aren't dealing with that here.) So clean all of the grounds and add some if something is questionable. Many battery cables have a pigtail on the negative lead and it was to go to the fender on later trucks, so it would be a good idea to do that if your cable has that lead. And sometimes the ground from the engine to the firewall, usually near the wiper motor, is left off and that can cause lots of problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdm3 Posted August 11 Author Share Posted August 11 I know 70 very well. I did not see where you said that you had an aod problem. possibly a different thread. but you drove it home. which bushing are you referring to in the tv cable? the efi end has the tear drop slip on which should have a slight detent feel as it snaps onto the throttle stud. and the trans lever end has the 90 degree ball detent. were either of these disconnected when you drove it? Mat I was concerned about the stickiness of the throttle hoping that wasn't the TV cable that was sticking or hanging. It is and was hooked up. Halfway home the truck made a loud engine speed related noise and vibrated seemingly in the drive line until I got pulled over. It didn't repeat that after we were back underway, but I am gun shy about the AOD because of all the horror stories I've read about mis-adjusted TV cables. David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted August 11 Share Posted August 11 Mat I was concerned about the stickiness of the throttle hoping that wasn't the TV cable that was sticking or hanging. It is and was hooked up. Halfway home the truck made a loud engine speed related noise and vibrated seemingly in the drive line until I got pulled over. It didn't repeat that after we were back underway, but I am gun shy about the AOD because of all the horror stories I've read about mis-adjusted TV cables. David ok. I did read that but did not immediately think transmission. the shaking that you described seemed more like rear brakes dragging and starting to chatter, hammer, or any other way of describing it. I have only had drums do that once but it sure can make you think the worst when it happens. be careful making adjustments to an aod (tv cable). if it shifts cleanly without feeling like its slipping into the next gear then probably fine right where it is. fluid/filter change is just great thing to do and best to drain the converter also "if" you find dark or foul fluid. or have it flushed. I only mention flush as it does not drain and therefore never loses prime or have major air pockets. if you do adjust the cable keep in mind that its better too tight than too loose but make a note of how you started. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted August 11 Share Posted August 11 ok. I did read that but did not immediately think transmission. the shaking that you described seemed more like rear brakes dragging and starting to chatter, hammer, or any other way of describing it. I have only had drums do that once but it sure can make you think the worst when it happens. be careful making adjustments to an aod (tv cable). if it shifts cleanly without feeling like its slipping into the next gear then probably fine right where it is. fluid/filter change is just great thing to do and best to drain the converter also "if" you find dark or foul fluid. or have it flushed. I only mention flush as it does not drain and therefore never loses prime or have major air pockets. if you do adjust the cable keep in mind that its better too tight than too loose but make a note of how you started. as to the sticky throttle. start by cleaning the throttle body where the throttle plates meet the housing. once they are clean and you are certain that no crud or carbon is sticking the throttle check the base idle screw. you know, the one they say not to touch. if it is turned down far enough. the plates start to drag in their bores and can cut a bit of a ridge and wedge in under spring pressure by simply letting off the throttle. a slight turn in may solve the issue. but too much can trigger the tps and iac. so, by slight I do mean slight. if you see any light between the lever and the screw then it's likely that it has been turned Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco638 Posted August 12 Share Posted August 12 as to the sticky throttle. start by cleaning the throttle body where the throttle plates meet the housing. once they are clean and you are certain that no crud or carbon is sticking the throttle check the base idle screw. you know, the one they say not to touch. if it is turned down far enough. the plates start to drag in their bores and can cut a bit of a ridge and wedge in under spring pressure by simply letting off the throttle. a slight turn in may solve the issue. but too much can trigger the tps and iac. so, by slight I do mean slight. if you see any light between the lever and the screw then it's likely that it has been turned Sounds like you have plenty to check/fix. Based on the picture of the engine compartment, it looks like the rear master cylinder seal may be leaking. The brake booster's paint is peeling and the lower portion of it is rusty (which means brake fluid has been slowly stripping the paint for some time). Since you have other brake issues, perhaps an overhaul of the entire braking system might be in order? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdm3 Posted August 12 Author Share Posted August 12 I said that under the hood the truck was mostly unmolested. A pretty good feat for a 40 year old truck. That's probably another benefit of it being FI. A carburetor truck probably would have had much more tinkering done. Anyway under the hood there are two wiring anomalies I would like your opinion on as to why they are. The first three pictures show a wire that is spliced in on the driver's side near the coolant/windshield reservoir, runs over to the heater hose, uses it for a 'conduit' goes to another spliced connector near the starter solenoid and then enters the firewall. The second is this disconnected diode hanging around at the a/c compressor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 12 Share Posted August 12 I said that under the hood the truck was mostly unmolested. A pretty good feat for a 40 year old truck. That's probably another benefit of it being FI. A carburetor truck probably would have had much more tinkering done. Anyway under the hood there are two wiring anomalies I would like your opinion on as to why they are. The first three pictures show a wire that is spliced in on the driver's side near the coolant/windshield reservoir, runs over to the heater hose, uses it for a 'conduit' goes to another spliced connector near the starter solenoid and then enters the firewall. The second is this disconnected diode hanging around at the a/c compressor. Well, the first one is a good lug, obviously. I've got no idea why anyone would go that far for ground, but it says a lot about their state of mind On the second, I'll have to get my glasses, or look at a bigger screen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted August 12 Share Posted August 12 I said that under the hood the truck was mostly unmolested. A pretty good feat for a 40 year old truck. That's probably another benefit of it being FI. A carburetor truck probably would have had much more tinkering done. Anyway under the hood there are two wiring anomalies I would like your opinion on as to why they are. The first three pictures show a wire that is spliced in on the driver's side near the coolant/windshield reservoir, runs over to the heater hose, uses it for a 'conduit' goes to another spliced connector near the starter solenoid and then enters the firewall. The second is this disconnected diode hanging around at the a/c compressor. you have "dealer installed" air conditioning! that is not a bullnose ac compressor, and one splice is a ground and the other is spliced at the blower motor assembly to prevent the compressor from being run without the blower motor being on. im only surprised that saddle splices were used instead of proper connections. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdm3 Posted August 12 Author Share Posted August 12 you have "dealer installed" air conditioning! that is not a bullnose ac compressor, and one splice is a ground and the other is spliced at the blower motor assembly to prevent the compressor from being run without the blower motor being on. im only surprised that saddle splices were used instead of proper connections. Interesting. That diode doesn't hook to anything. Did at one time, but they cut the one end and left it hanging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 12 Share Posted August 12 Interesting. That diode doesn't hook to anything. Did at one time, but they cut the one end and left it hanging. The diode was probably a back-EMF suppressor for the A/C compressor's clutch. As the clutch is de-energized it throws an electromagnetic force burst of energy back into the electrical system that can cause problems. So they put that diode in with it's cathode to ground and its anode to the + side of the clutch coil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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