BigBrother-84 Posted July 26 Share Posted July 26 Those are for the horseshoe connector that is a part of every DS-II system! Obviously someone has butchered your ignition, but the proper connector pigtail is cheap in the aftermarket. I had to replace mine about a decade ago. ETA link: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Help-85848-Ignition-Socket/dp/B000C5G8R2 Here's how it looks: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted July 26 Share Posted July 26 Painless offers a DS-II wiring harness 'kit' You can ignore the ballast and the retard wires These are already built into the truck. Vivek seems to have found a replacement for the elusive distributor connector, the other 2-3 are readily available. So $$$ for everything, and then some, or you can get creative and build your own. I never found that distributor connector (C-322). Had to modify the one that connects to the DS-II module by cutting off the ears per Jeff's excellent tutorial https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/C-322-Duraspark-II-distributor-connector-tp146596.html Since the Dorman one shows to be out of stock on Amazon, this is the one I used on the coil... shows to be available. The horseshoe connector is so handy.. in case you need to disconnect the coil for safety (running compression tests, etc.. the high voltage disconnects past the coil output are not very reliable as high voltage can 'jump' when close enough... I ran one of trucks once with the main distributor feed voltage wire off slightly for a few weeks.. it rode bad at high rpms and shocked the s**z out of me a few times when I was under the hood before I realized it was off )... https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-S583-Pigtail/dp/B000C81PCM/ref=dp_fod_sccl_1/144-9369957-7318344?pd_rd_w=RpLcO&content-id=amzn1.sym.550e945f-c48e-4794-aff0-cc9017996f0a&pf_rd_p=550e945f-c48e-4794-aff0-cc9017996f0a&pf_rd_r=BCHG6D9X27S284H68MF9&pd_rd_wg=5behR&pd_rd_r=f7a54e51-0b68-46c0-ac01-c652ac1759e3&pd_rd_i=B000C81PCM&psc=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 26 Share Posted July 26 I never found that distributor connector (C-322). Had to modify the one that connects to the DS-II module by cutting off the ears per Jeff's excellent tutorial https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/C-322-Duraspark-II-distributor-connector-tp146596.html Since the Dorman one shows to be out of stock on Amazon, this is the one I used on the coil... shows to be available. The horseshoe connector is so handy.. in case you need to disconnect the coil for safety (running compression tests, etc.. the high voltage disconnects past the coil output are not very reliable as high voltage can 'jump' when close enough... I ran one of trucks once with the main distributor feed voltage wire off slightly for a few weeks.. it rode bad at high rpms and shocked the s**z out of me a few times when I was under the hood before I realized it was off )... https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-S583-Pigtail/dp/B000C81PCM/ref=dp_fod_sccl_1/144-9369957-7318344?pd_rd_w=RpLcO&content-id=amzn1.sym.550e945f-c48e-4794-aff0-cc9017996f0a&pf_rd_p=550e945f-c48e-4794-aff0-cc9017996f0a&pf_rd_r=BCHG6D9X27S284H68MF9&pd_rd_wg=5behR&pd_rd_r=f7a54e51-0b68-46c0-ac01-c652ac1759e3&pd_rd_i=B000C81PCM&psc=1 Yeah, but the Dorman # will cross at any parts store Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delco1946 Posted July 26 Author Share Posted July 26 Yeah, but the Dorman # will cross at any parts store Just bought the horse shoe connector at Napa today and got it installed. It’s starting better and running better before it warms up so that’s a win! However while it isn’t hot enough today to really test it, it started its light “shudder” as it warmed up. When I touch the throttle it runs a lil better but I can still feel the shudder, it’s just masked at higher rpm. Anything else I should look at? This couldn’t be from being too lean? If it were an egr issue it should still be present when cold, correct? I’ve checked it before too so it ought to be connected correctly but could double check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delco1946 Posted July 26 Author Share Posted July 26 Just bought the horse shoe connector at Napa today and got it installed. It’s starting better and running better before it warms up so that’s a win! However while it isn’t hot enough today to really test it, it started its light “shudder” as it warmed up. When I touch the throttle it runs a lil better but I can still feel the shudder, it’s just masked at higher rpm. Anything else I should look at? This couldn’t be from being too lean? If it were an egr issue it should still be present when cold, correct? I’ve checked it before too so it ought to be connected correctly but could double check. Well just read that the fuel mixture screws have no effect outside of idle, so I guess that’s not the issue if it still shudders at higher rpm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delco1946 Posted July 26 Author Share Posted July 26 Well just read that the fuel mixture screws have no effect outside of idle, so I guess that’s not the issue if it still shudders at higher rpm. Disconnected the vacuum line and verified its ported vacuum, no vacuum present at idle. In the past I’ve removed the egr and cleaned it/ check no crud is blocking it open. It’s also not old. Made a video of it running, notice how much the wires shake. Feels like a lopsided idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 26 Share Posted July 26 Just bought the horse shoe connector at Napa today and got it installed. It’s starting better and running better before it warms up so that’s a win! However while it isn’t hot enough today to really test it, it started its light “shudder” as it warmed up. When I touch the throttle it runs a lil better but I can still feel the shudder, it’s just masked at higher rpm. Anything else I should look at? This couldn’t be from being too lean? If it were an egr issue it should still be present when cold, correct? I’ve checked it before too so it ought to be connected correctly but could double check. EGR should never be active at idle, that's why it's ported and on a delay as well as a thermal switch. If it shuddering and clears up as you open the throttle it sounds rich to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted July 26 Share Posted July 26 Disconnected the vacuum line and verified its ported vacuum, no vacuum present at idle. In the past I’ve removed the egr and cleaned it/ check no crud is blocking it open. It’s also not old. Made a video of it running, notice how much the wires shake. Feels like a lopsided idle. Chris. I practically have the same truck only 2wd. it does seem that the engine has a bit of an irregular stumble. if this were mine, I would start with plugs. then wires then vacuum. I say plugs first because that gives you a chance to "read" the plugs not only inspect them. they can tell you a lot actually. second, I say wires for the obvious. no ignition works without them and in good condition and snapped on well. if headers are used then very often the wires get burned and the spark happens outside the cylinder. now we get to the vacuum. it seems that you have a down cylinder for one reason or another. commonalities are already checked out. fuel/air and spark. UNLESS you have unmetered air in a single runner. where vacuum lines get connected can be important. pcv for example needs to be at the carb to be evenly drawn by all. if it were hooked to a single runner then you will have a lean cylinder. same goes for any other vacuum operated device if it were not perfectly sealed. a brake booster with a leaky diaphragm is fairly common. another would be any leak in the factory hvac control circuits. you might start by capping every port and running the engine to see if there is a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted July 26 Share Posted July 26 Disconnected the vacuum line and verified its ported vacuum, no vacuum present at idle. In the past I’ve removed the egr and cleaned it/ check no crud is blocking it open. It’s also not old. Made a video of it running, notice how much the wires shake. Feels like a lopsided idle. If the vibration only happens when hot, I would seriously inspect all the vacuum lines running off the vacuum control valves (VCVs) on the thermostat. Maybe you have a big vacuum leak and only when the temperature hits the setpoint of those VCVs, that big vacuum leak is exposed to the intake manifold... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted July 26 Share Posted July 26 If the vibration only happens when hot, I would seriously inspect all the vacuum lines running off the vacuum control valves (VCVs) on the thermostat. Maybe you have a big vacuum leak and only when the temperature hits the setpoint of those VCVs, that big vacuum leak is exposed to the intake manifold... good point. that's a possible way to narrow the field Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts