Bronco638 Posted May 12 Author Share Posted May 12 it looks like the worst is behind you. so much easier to repair and clean up individual pieces. those rear crossmember ends look repaired already, not well but you can probably save them. To be honest, this entire process wasn't that bad (aided mostly by the fact that corrosion was minimal, at worst). And, after closer inspection of that rear x-member/bed side support, it's getting replaced. Not only have the braces, that attach to the bed side extensions, been cracked/broken but there's damage on the left/driver's side where I can see it's been welded to either 1) put it back together (from two pieces) or 2) weld up a bigger crack. Could it be saved? Sure. But, I don't weld very well and no longer have tools to do so. With Mar-K selling new ones (albeit, not cheap), it just makes sense to put a new one on and have everything line up and not be 'cobbled' together. The worst part of the job was dealing with crumbling oak as some of the boards disintegrated as I removed the bed strips. That's not corrosion on the front x-member, it's all small wood pieces/dust (which vacuumed up). Job done! Side Question: Take a look at the rear window. That's a 'louvered' plexiglass unit in place of the Car-Lite backlight. Anyone ever seen one of those before? I have a Car-Lite slider that's going in there but I never knew anything like that was available (and, I used to read thru the JC Whitney catalog when it came in the mail....). I felt a little guilty about cutting up the old boards and putting them in the trash. But, I can't burn them (too many chemicals) and really have no use for them. I was surprised a how tough the old oak was. It still took a sharp blade (either circular saw or Sawz-All) to get thru them, in places. The blocks that level the under bed cross-strips are kind of interesting. After removing them, I do not think they're pressure treated. But, they are milled in interesting ways. Anyone know why there's a bevel on the bottom corner of the middle ones? Also, anyone know what type of wood these might be? I do have the tools to make my own (even though Mar-K sells the block kits for ~$50). Now, it's on to power washing the rear of the frame, applying rust inhibitor and cleaning up the rear axle. Those old shocks have already been removed and discarded. Sadly, the long brake line, on the axle, has been crushed (right @ the t-fitting) and will need to be replaced. I'm also going to drop the tank and inspect everything. I think it's pretty full of degraded fuel. =( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted May 14 Share Posted May 14 it looks like the worst is behind you. so much easier to repair and clean up individual pieces. those rear crossmember ends look repaired already, not well but you can probably save them. To be honest, this entire process wasn't that bad (aided mostly by the fact that corrosion was minimal, at worst). And, after closer inspection of that rear x-member/bed side support, it's getting replaced. Not only have the braces, that attach to the bed side extensions, been cracked/broken but there's damage on the left/driver's side where I can see it's been welded to either 1) put it back together (from two pieces) or 2) weld up a bigger crack. Could it be saved? Sure. But, I don't weld very well and no longer have tools to do so. With Mar-K selling new ones (albeit, not cheap), it just makes sense to put a new one on and have everything line up and not be 'cobbled' together. The worst part of the job was dealing with crumbling oak as some of the boards disintegrated as I removed the bed strips. That's not corrosion on the front x-member, it's all small wood pieces/dust (which vacuumed up). Job done! Side Question: Take a look at the rear window. That's a 'louvered' plexiglass unit in place of the Car-Lite backlight. Anyone ever seen one of those before? I have a Car-Lite slider that's going in there but I never knew anything like that was available (and, I used to read thru the JC Whitney catalog when it came in the mail....). I felt a little guilty about cutting up the old boards and putting them in the trash. But, I can't burn them (too many chemicals) and really have no use for them. I was surprised a how tough the old oak was. It still took a sharp blade (either circular saw or Sawz-All) to get thru them, in places. The blocks that level the under bed cross-strips are kind of interesting. After removing them, I do not think they're pressure treated. But, they are milled in interesting ways. Anyone know why there's a bevel on the bottom corner of the middle ones? Also, anyone know what type of wood these might be? I do have the tools to make my own (even though Mar-K sells the block kits for ~$50). Now, it's on to power washing the rear of the frame, applying rust inhibitor and cleaning up the rear axle. Those old shocks have already been removed and discarded. Sadly, the long brake line, on the axle, has been crushed (right @ the t-fitting) and will need to be replaced. I'm also going to drop the tank and inspect everything. I think it's pretty full of degraded fuel. =( looking good. I'm not sure of wood type but if I were using oak then it makes sense to make them out of the same. this looks to be the best of both worlds. a little metal fab work and a little wood working. the rear window treatment is interesting. not sure of its real purpose unless it is/was tinted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco638 Posted May 14 Author Share Posted May 14 looking good. I'm not sure of wood type but if I were using oak then it makes sense to make them out of the same. I was thinking the same (oak) but then thought maybe something pressure treated might not be a bad idea. I have an older pressure treated 2x6 (no longer wet with chemicals) that might be a good candidate for becoming support blocks. Interestingly, Mar-K's set includes blocks that go inside of the metal support on the front cross member (the one directly behind the cab). My truck did not have any wood in there and given the condition of the other six blocks, I would think they would still be in good shape, if they were present. this looks to be the best of both worlds. a little metal fab work and a little wood working. the rear window treatment is interesting. not sure of its real purpose unless it is/was tinted. I'll have to admit that I'm pleasantly surprised that i might be able to use my wood working tools on this project. =) The rear window is interesting. It is tinted (but, I'm guessing faded) and I didn't realize how well you can see thru it until I looked at the picture again. You can pretty clearly see the side garage door on the far side. I'm thinking it might have been something to combat heat in the desert southwest by not letting so much strong sunlight come thru it? Unfortunately, there's a hole dead center (covered with packing tape) and I'm pretty sure it leaks (based on the cab corners - could be drip rails). I have a sliding rear window to replace it so it's coming out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted May 15 Share Posted May 15 looking good. I'm not sure of wood type but if I were using oak then it makes sense to make them out of the same. I was thinking the same (oak) but then thought maybe something pressure treated might not be a bad idea. I have an older pressure treated 2x6 (no longer wet with chemicals) that might be a good candidate for becoming support blocks. Interestingly, Mar-K's set includes blocks that go inside of the metal support on the front cross member (the one directly behind the cab). My truck did not have any wood in there and given the condition of the other six blocks, I would think they would still be in good shape, if they were present. this looks to be the best of both worlds. a little metal fab work and a little wood working. the rear window treatment is interesting. not sure of its real purpose unless it is/was tinted. I'll have to admit that I'm pleasantly surprised that i might be able to use my wood working tools on this project. =) The rear window is interesting. It is tinted (but, I'm guessing faded) and I didn't realize how well you can see thru it until I looked at the picture again. You can pretty clearly see the side garage door on the far side. I'm thinking it might have been something to combat heat in the desert southwest by not letting so much strong sunlight come thru it? Unfortunately, there's a hole dead center (covered with packing tape) and I'm pretty sure it leaks (based on the cab corners - could be drip rails). I have a sliding rear window to replace it so it's coming out. pay attention. when you remove the rear window you may well find some rust repair needed. usually from either the upper seams from the drip rails or the lower seams where the gasket can hold dirt and moisture. I hope not but do not be surprised. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco638 Posted May 15 Author Share Posted May 15 pay attention. when you remove the rear window you may well find some rust repair needed. usually from either the upper seams from the drip rails or the lower seams where the gasket can hold dirt and moisture. I hope not but do not be surprised. Yeah, I won't be surprised by anything that I find. But, the tell-tale signs of rust is not on the paint in the drain channels on the back side of the cab (I had an '85 Ranger with paint staining in those drain channels which turned out to just be surface rust). But, I know that doesn't mean much. I have other rust repair to do so I'm hoping the area around the rear window (and windshield) turn out to be solid. We'll see... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco638 Posted May 19 Author Share Posted May 19 pay attention. when you remove the rear window you may well find some rust repair needed. usually from either the upper seams from the drip rails or the lower seams where the gasket can hold dirt and moisture. I hope not but do not be surprised. Yeah, I won't be surprised by anything that I find. But, the tell-tale signs of rust is not on the paint in the drain channels on the back side of the cab (I had an '85 Ranger with paint staining in those drain channels which turned out to just be surface rust). But, I know that doesn't mean much. I have other rust repair to do so I'm hoping the area around the rear window (and windshield) turn out to be solid. We'll see... Time for a new gas tank. =/ I took the opportunity to drop the tank hoping that it was full enough of old fuel that the inside of the tank didn't suffer. Nope, less than a gallon of what used to be gasoline which now looks like anti-freeze and smells like varnish or finger nail polish (as my wife aptly pointed out). I see Spectra seems to have pretty good reviews. I can get a new 16 gallon tank and sending unit for a little less than $165 (Amazon) or $130 from LMC (but I don't know who their supplier is). Thoughts? Straps are still in good shape. Is it a good idea to use some sort of vibration 'isolation' between the straps and the tank (below) as well as between the frame cross members and the tank (above)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 Time for a new gas tank. =/ I took the opportunity to drop the tank hoping that it was full enough of old fuel that the inside of the tank didn't suffer. Nope, less than a gallon of what used to be gasoline which now looks like anti-freeze and smells like varnish or finger nail polish (as my wife aptly pointed out). I see Spectra seems to have pretty good reviews. I can get a new 16 gallon tank and sending unit for a little less than $165 (Amazon) or $130 from LMC (but I don't know who their supplier is). Thoughts? Straps are still in good shape. Is it a good idea to use some sort of vibration 'isolation' between the straps and the tank (below) as well as between the frame cross members and the tank (above)? I have moved away from Spectra and on to Liland. Their powder coating is tough as nails and the fit is better IMO. My flailing driveshaft beat the hell out of my side tank and it didn't peel or chip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 I have moved away from Spectra and on to Liland. Their powder coating is tough as nails and the fit is better IMO. My flailing driveshaft beat the hell out of my side tank and it didn't peel or chip. I have used both and possibly others before I got picky. spectra always seemed to fit well and I usually got their sender too. liland global has been the ones I have used lately. very happy with them although I have had my front tank sender not read empty on an 81 f250 recently. guess how that was discovered. good point for the second tank. my brother said that if anyone could wean a truck off of gas, it will be him. haha add it to my list. it's the 19 gal. so I need to adjust it before it gets refilled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco638 Posted May 20 Author Share Posted May 20 I have used both and possibly others before I got picky. spectra always seemed to fit well and I usually got their sender too. liland global has been the ones I have used lately. very happy with them although I have had my front tank sender not read empty on an 81 f250 recently. guess how that was discovered. good point for the second tank. my brother said that if anyone could wean a truck off of gas, it will be him. haha add it to my list. it's the 19 gal. so I need to adjust it before it gets refilled. OK, let's see how Liland stacks up with respect to price (not that it really matters, I'd prefer quality over cost savings). Thanks. Update: I opted to go with a Liland tank/sending unit from RA. It was $188 (incl. shipping and tax). That was $50 less than Car-Parts. I could not find a Liland tank for my truck on Amazon. Their pricing for Spectra tanks was similar. I also ordered a wood bed kit and rear sill from Mar-K. They say it takes 3-4 weeks for the parts to arrive. I guess they'll be making my sill and cutting the lumber? When I was doing early Mustangs, in the 80s, that time frame was very common. Now, it seems like an eternity... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco638 Posted May 28 Author Share Posted May 28 OK, let's see how Liland stacks up with respect to price (not that it really matters, I'd prefer quality over cost savings). Thanks. Update: I opted to go with a Liland tank/sending unit from RA. It was $188 (incl. shipping and tax). That was $50 less than Car-Parts. I could not find a Liland tank for my truck on Amazon. Their pricing for Spectra tanks was similar. I also ordered a wood bed kit and rear sill from Mar-K. They say it takes 3-4 weeks for the parts to arrive. I guess they'll be making my sill and cutting the lumber? When I was doing early Mustangs, in the 80s, that time frame was very common. Now, it seems like an eternity... Things are progressing even if there isn't a lot of progress to show. I did use a wire wheel to remove the rusty scale from the frame and then power washed it: The tank & sending unit have arrived as has the filler neck kit. Memorial Day weekend was a bit damp/rainy and not particularly good for painting. So, I'm hoping to get the frame touched up with rust encapsulating paint this week and get the tank installed. I did fabricate some bed-to-frame blocks for the front cross sill. These blocks actually go inside of the boxed section of the sill to prevent the large bolts, that secure the bed to the frame, from crushing the boxed section of the sill. I used a 4x4 piece of pressure treated lumber to make the pieces. It took a little bit of "fettling" (as the English say) to get the pieces to fit. But, they're in there now and aren't going anywhere. The sill is shown upside down in this image but you can clearly see the location of the wooden block. My truck did not have these blocks when I dis-assembled the bed. Only after looking at the Mar-K block kit did I realize I was missing these. And, yes, I still need to use a paddle bit to drill the thru-holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts