Jump to content
Bullnose Forums

Flare Side Bed - Let's Take One Apart!


Bronco638

Recommended Posts

Truck: 1980 F-150

This truck is originally from Arizona and I don't think it spent much, if any, time on the road here in Illinois. So, it's going to come apart pretty easily and I'm not going to have to deal with severe corrosion. If you're suffering/dealing with oxidation, I feel your pain as I've been there.

Apologies, I've already removed the tailgate. That was simple; unbolt four metric fasteners from the hinge pivots and done. However, those bolts have captured nuts in the bed sides that would be VERY difficult to access as they're inside the rear boxed section of the bed side.

 

I was able to remove all thirteen fasteners that hold the left/driver's side flare to the bed box. Additionally, the two flare stays came off but both are broken. I also removed the step (five carriage bolts) that's between the front of the flare and the rear of the cab (the support remains bolted to the bed, for now). I did come across something odd; what appears to be a stake post support. However, it doesn't like up with any stake post holes in the bed (it's not in the first image, below).

I used some PB Blaster a few days ago on all the fasteners. I think that stuff works well. You can see how far it 'creeps' on metal surfaces.

20240430_110746.thumb.jpg.8c721b8ad8cec45749d24654d836513d.jpg

Here are the flare stays. The top one is the one that goes between the bed floor and the side step. It's beefier because it's supposed to stabilize the step when weight is placed on it. The broken tab is at the end where the stay fastens to the bed floor. I was thinking of having it fixed/welded but these stays are kind of flimsy. I think I can fabricate something a little more substantial out of some metal angle. As for the rear one, it was broken at the end that connects to the flare. And, the self-tapping fastener was loose. I guess I was lucky it didn't fall out. I may fix and re-use this one.

20240430_104316.thumb.jpg.48ae168de4b2fe5899e181d60e231f18.jpg

Both stays are fastened to the underside of the bed floor with the same carriage bolts that hold the bed side to the wooden bed floor.

This is the "stake pocket" that I am a little confused about. Like the stays, there are two carriage bolts that fasten this to the underside of the bed floor. There is no stake post hole, in the bed side, that's directly above it. I guess it's a nice place to collect road debris thrown up by the tires. You can see it's been there a while, as there's a wear mark in the bed side that's starting to oxidize. Anyone have any ideas? I'm inclined not to re-install it, it's heavy.

20240430_104253.thumb.jpg.b1f53de16e49371ca93ee174f0cf5d0c.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

This is the "stake pocket" that I am a little confused about. Like the stays, there are two carriage bolts that fasten this to the underside of the bed floor. There is no stake post hole, in the bed side, that's directly above it. I guess it's a nice place to collect road debris thrown up by the tires. You can see it's been there a while, as there's a wear mark in the bed side that's starting to oxidize. Anyone have any ideas? I'm inclined not to re-install it, it's heavy.

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n152598/20240430_104253.jpg

I'm here to tell you that you will remain confused about what the "stake pocket" is for. It has been discussed and talked about many times over the years. It IS a factory piece, installed when the truck was built. As for what it's purpose is? I don't think anybody has ever confirmed. I always assumed it was a registration jig for the assembly line...but some people are adamant that's there to protect the fuel filler neck from getting pinched up against the side of the bed in the even of a side impact. I think some people said it was a leftover part from the previous generation(s) of Flaresides that was somehow part of a side mount for a spare tire, back when they still did that. In any case, all anybody can do is guess...unless one of us happens to find somebody that worked on the assembly line back then;). I'm as confused about it's purpose as I was years ago.

In any case, everybody usually throws that part away and just puts new bolts in the empty holes. That's what I did, as did many others. Good luck!

PS: Be careful with the fuel filler neck and the vent line inside it...neither are available in the aftermarket. I cleaned them up and re-used them on the Falresides I rebuilt.

That bed looks like it's in nice condition! Congrats. I'll be following along.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm here to tell you that you will remain confused about what the "stake

pocket" is for. It has been discussed and talked about many times over the

years. It IS a factory piece, installed when the truck was built. As for

what it's purpose is? I don't think anybody has ever confirmed. I always

assumed it was a registration jig for the assembly line...but some people

are adamant that's there to protect the fuel filler neck from getting

pinched up against the side of the bed in the even of a side impact. I think

some people said it was a leftover part from the previous generation(s) of

Flaresides that was somehow part of a side mount for a spare tire, back when

they still did that. In any case, all anybody can do is guess...unless one

of us happens to find somebody that worked on the assembly line back then;).

I'm as confused about it's purpose as I was years ago.

In any case, everybody usually throws that part away and just puts new bolts

in the empty holes. That's what I did, as did many others. Good luck!

Well, isn't that fun... I guess I could see that it might prevent the filler neck from being crushed in a side impact. But, that seems like an odd way to do that, given its shape. Huh, I guess I'll put it aside for now.

PS: Be careful with the fuel filler neck and the vent line inside

it...neither are available in the aftermarket. I cleaned them up and re-used

them on the Flaresides I rebuilt.

I'm hoping they're in decent enough shape that I can clean and re-use them. At first glance, they look OK. The fuel that's in that tank is going to be good for cleaning parts....maybe...

That bed looks like it's in nice condition! Congrats. I'll be following

along.

The whole truck is in nice condition, with respect to corrosion. And, the old engine and trans (351M & C6) had the courtesy to leak some so the frame, forward of the cab, has been nicely preserved. Front suspension, too. The only rot is in the cab corners and I think it's because the rear window was replaced with a louvered plexiglass unit a while ago. I'm thinking that the weatherstrip seal isn't good and it leaks. The cab drip rails seem to be good. But, when I get to removing the interior, I'm hoping to see some sort of evidence of a leak. I'll keep posting as things progress (with the bed).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm here to tell you that you will remain confused about what the "stake

pocket" is for. It has been discussed and talked about many times over the

years. It IS a factory piece, installed when the truck was built. As for

what it's purpose is? I don't think anybody has ever confirmed. I always

assumed it was a registration jig for the assembly line...but some people

are adamant that's there to protect the fuel filler neck from getting

pinched up against the side of the bed in the even of a side impact. I think

some people said it was a leftover part from the previous generation(s) of

Flaresides that was somehow part of a side mount for a spare tire, back when

they still did that. In any case, all anybody can do is guess...unless one

of us happens to find somebody that worked on the assembly line back then;).

I'm as confused about it's purpose as I was years ago.

In any case, everybody usually throws that part away and just puts new bolts

in the empty holes. That's what I did, as did many others. Good luck!

Well, isn't that fun... I guess I could see that it might prevent the filler neck from being crushed in a side impact. But, that seems like an odd way to do that, given its shape. Huh, I guess I'll put it aside for now.

PS: Be careful with the fuel filler neck and the vent line inside

it...neither are available in the aftermarket. I cleaned them up and re-used

them on the Flaresides I rebuilt.

I'm hoping they're in decent enough shape that I can clean and re-use them. At first glance, they look OK. The fuel that's in that tank is going to be good for cleaning parts....maybe...

That bed looks like it's in nice condition! Congrats. I'll be following

along.

The whole truck is in nice condition, with respect to corrosion. And, the old engine and trans (351M & C6) had the courtesy to leak some so the frame, forward of the cab, has been nicely preserved. Front suspension, too. The only rot is in the cab corners and I think it's because the rear window was replaced with a louvered plexiglass unit a while ago. I'm thinking that the weatherstrip seal isn't good and it leaks. The cab drip rails seem to be good. But, when I get to removing the interior, I'm hoping to see some sort of evidence of a leak. I'll keep posting as things progress (with the bed).

Time for that left/driver's side bedside to come off. After removing all of the fasteners, I discovered that the rear corner of the bed had been welded in two areas. I was able to use a 4" grinder (using both cut-off and grinding wheels), cold chisels and a hack saw blade to cut thru the welds and the bedside came loose. Here it is sitting in the bed of the truck, leaning against the right/passenger side of the bed (which is still bolted in-place). That's a complete dash out of an '85 (I think) Bronco laying in the bed, nearest the camera. That, the cardboard box and the black plastic crate need to go to storage. The rest of the items on the bed floor are pieces of the bed (the flare and tailgate are sitting in the bed of my Ranger). It's interesting, the wood bed floor is in really good shape in a few small areas. In other places, it barely exists.

20240504_171917.thumb.jpg.5f0ca2f4dc5a40094f74ade5c397e4a4.jpg

A view of that lower, rear extension panel of the bedside. In the yellow rectangles, you can clearly see the remnants of the weld beads. In the lower left corner of the right rectangle is a blob of weld which is shiny from being cut, not a hole in the panel.

20240504_171939_a.thumb.jpg.f9043c4c479ed4a95022cca5f887b27a.jpg

And, why were those panels welded in the first place? I'm guessing an accident/fender bender as I found some body filler in the rear bed panel, just above where the license plate bracket bolts (look closely, just to the right of the black arrowhead).

20240504_171927_a.thumb.jpg.54ffbf2bd2b14aeb82d2a402d0437b79.jpg

Another view of that same area but before dis-assembly. You can clearly see the cracks in the thin sheet metal. The sheet metal captured by the fastener in the upper right is actually broken off. I have that piece and will figure out how to put it back where it belongs. I can see why it was welded; it's an easier fix. But, this won't be the way it's put back together.

20240503_160618_a.thumb.jpg.e30016a9354294e6a898dd829e7f603c.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Time for that left/driver's side bedside to come off. After removing all of the fasteners, I discovered that the rear corner of the bed had been welded in two areas. I was able to use a 4" grinder (using both cut-off and grinding wheels), cold chisels and a hack saw blade to cut thru the welds and the bedside came loose. Here it is sitting in the bed of the truck, leaning against the right/passenger side of the bed (which is still bolted in-place). That's a complete dash out of an '85 (I think) Bronco laying in the bed, nearest the camera. That, the cardboard box and the black plastic crate need to go to storage. The rest of the items on the bed floor are pieces of the bed (the flare and tailgate are sitting in the bed of my Ranger). It's interesting, the wood bed floor is in really good shape in a few small areas. In other places, it barely exists.

A view of that lower, rear extension panel of the bedside. In the yellow rectangles, you can clearly see the remnants of the weld beads. In the lower left corner of the right rectangle is a blob of weld which is shiny from being cut, not a hole in the panel.

And, why were those panels welded in the first place? I'm guessing an accident/fender bender as I found some body filler in the rear bed panel, just above where the license plate bracket bolts (look closely, just to the right of the black arrowhead).

Another view of that same area but before dis-assembly. You can clearly see the cracks in the thin sheet metal. The sheet metal captured by the fastener in the upper right is actually broken off. I have that piece and will figure out how to put it back where it belongs. I can see why it was welded; it's an easier fix. But, this won't be the way it's put back together.

I will be following the build.

At one time you could buy that rear sill panel dont know if you still can as I have not looked in a while.

On the broken braces they are for the front & rear lower of the fenders.

The step should have it's own support bracket. It uses 2 carriage bolts thru the step to the bracket and IIRC the bracket bolted to the front sill.

I did a different floor than wood so the front sill and rear sill I had to make changes to work.

Also my bed was so bad I dont know how the factory had the step brackets to the sill?

I also would never use the steps to access the bed as I would mark them up :nabble_smiley_cry:

Dave ----

Link to comment
Share on other sites

At one time you could buy that rear sill panel don't know if you still can as

I have not looked in a while.

I will look into this but I think I'd rather fix what I have as opposed to using something new. I have no idea how I would manage to match the (faded) paint.

On the broken braces they are for the front & rear lower of the fenders.

The rear 'panel' has a double set of braces whereas the front only has one. But, yes, you're right.

The step should have it's own support bracket. It uses 2 carriage bolts thru

the step to the bracket and IIRC the bracket bolted to the front sill.

If you look closely at this image, you can see one of the bracket holes just above the band clamp on the fuel filler hose. So, yes, the step bracket is bolted the front of the bed and there's also a support bracket that's bolted to the under side the bed floor (which is fastened to the middle bolt of the three that hold the step to the flare).

20240504_171917.thumb.jpg.23247af3dd1be9f529ef0a1b0924279f.jpg

I did a different floor than wood so the front sill and rear sill I had to

make changes to work. Also my bed was so bad I don't know how the factory had the step brackets to

the sill?

I think it's pretty cool that you used a metal bed, from a style side, in your flare side. I do think the wood floor is kinda cool though. Since I won't be using my truck like you do, using wood will be just fine.

I also would never use the steps to access the bed as I would mark them up.
My steps are sun burned paint and I won't have any issue putting my dirty boots on them. That said, they'll probably see little use. Your truck is nice and I'd be leery of using those steps, too!

Anyone have any suggestions on bed flooring suppliers (I do not need hardware, just wood)? I'm considering something other than Pine or Red Oak as long as it's affordable. I will not be selecting Pine unless it's old-growth Southern Pine (which has been sitting for the last 50 years). That stuff is like rock unlike the current stuff, which is like foam-board. Ash, Maple, Poplar or Cypress would be my other considerations. TIA.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

At one time you could buy that rear sill panel don't know if you still can as

I have not looked in a while.

I will look into this but I think I'd rather fix what I have as opposed to using something new. I have no idea how I would manage to match the (faded) paint.

On the broken braces they are for the front & rear lower of the fenders.

The rear 'panel' has a double set of braces whereas the front only has one. But, yes, you're right.

The step should have it's own support bracket. It uses 2 carriage bolts thru

the step to the bracket and IIRC the bracket bolted to the front sill.

If you look closely at this image, you can see one of the bracket holes just above the band clamp on the fuel filler hose. So, yes, the step bracket is bolted the front of the bed and there's also a support bracket that's bolted to the under side the bed floor (which is fastened to the middle bolt of the three that hold the step to the flare).

I did a different floor than wood so the front sill and rear sill I had to

make changes to work. Also my bed was so bad I don't know how the factory had the step brackets to

the sill?

I think it's pretty cool that you used a metal bed, from a style side, in your flare side. I do think the wood floor is kinda cool though. Since I won't be using my truck like you do, using wood will be just fine.

I also would never use the steps to access the bed as I would mark them up.
My steps are sun burned paint and I won't have any issue putting my dirty boots on them. That said, they'll probably see little use. Your truck is nice and I'd be leery of using those steps, too!

Anyone have any suggestions on bed flooring suppliers (I do not need hardware, just wood)? I'm considering something other than Pine or Red Oak as long as it's affordable. I will not be selecting Pine unless it's old-growth Southern Pine (which has been sitting for the last 50 years). That stuff is like rock unlike the current stuff, which is like foam-board. Ash, Maple, Poplar or Cypress would be my other considerations. TIA.

On the last one I did, my 1980 F150 4x4, I believe it was red oak that I used. It was the cheapest oak I could buy locally, and it worked just fine. I had the shop cut them to the correct length, and then I cut the slots in them with a table saw. I stained them with Minwax Provincial, and then put three coats are marine spar varnish or whatever it's called, sanding in between coats (except for the last coat). The wood cost me about $300 (Canadian) locally, so it should be even less in the US.

IMG_4481.jpg.403c6bc7a674ec5f497085b422e7a19e.jpg

IMG_5156.jpg.a4e8db13fb06193a911b30e295d8e197.jpg

IMG_5196.jpg.eacf3dee98447184af7d1e38f8873028.jpg

You'll notice that my bedsides do not have the inner fender tubs. I made these sides from scratch, and installing tubs was going to be way too much work on top of something I already had way too much work in lol.

IMG_4190.jpg.44c37bbf2db9a12e1544c1ec0188a82e.jpg

IMG_3967.jpg.4b4fd2a4011f2190018193c8f57c293d.jpg

IMG_3969.jpg.172ccb1343ae2231bd4ba784ba092c3e.jpg

IMG_5149.jpg.d18d56bf8901f6c61e29f4025b649dd9.jpg

I had so many hours into that bad you have no idea...lol.

AS for the rear sill, the one I used in this bed was a used one from down south, and while it was relatively rust free, it was cracked in several places just like yours, and somebody had drilled about 20 holes in it screwing down new bed wood. I betcha I had a week of evenings just welding up that rear sill. You can buy new ones from Mar-K in Oklahoma and the fit and finish is A1, really.

When I built my 1984 F150 Flareside, I used all new steel in the bed, except for the tailgate and the steps. I had to fab and weld new stake pockets on to the new steel side panels, but all the crossmembers and sills, head board, etc were all new.

IMG_8779.jpg.dc19407c01f2bc46eaec0facac203135.jpg

IMG_0561.jpg.8606754a7ea8d5503ccef10cf93a1117.jpg

IMG_0319.jpg.ef630ad238030f0cab06ed74e584d1a1.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the last one I did, my 1980 F150 4x4, I believe it was red oak that I used. It was the cheapest oak I could buy locally, and it worked just fine. I had the shop cut them to the correct length, and then I cut the slots in them with a table saw. I stained them with Minwax Provincial, and then put three coats are marine spar varnish or whatever it's called, sanding in between coats (except for the last coat). The wood cost me about $300 (Canadian) locally, so it should be even less in the US.

You'll notice that my bedsides do not have the inner fender tubs. I made these sides from scratch, and installing tubs was going to be way too much work on top of something I already had way too much work in lol.

I had so many hours into that bad you have no idea...lol.

AS for the rear sill, the one I used in this bed was a used one from down south, and while it was relatively rust free, it was cracked in several places just like yours, and somebody had drilled about 20 holes in it screwing down new bed wood. I betcha I had a week of evenings just welding up that rear sill. You can buy new ones from Mar-K in Oklahoma and the fit and finish is A1, really.

When I built my 1984 F150 Flareside, I used all new steel in the bed, except for the tailgate and the steps. I had to fab and weld new stake pockets on to the new steel side panels, but all the crossmembers and sills, head board, etc were all new.

To back up a little when I took my truck to work today the rear lights do have the side markers.

Again they are aftermarket but were a bolt on to the factory brackets.

Cory they were some pretty trucks even that older Ford you had for a little bit.

Dave ----

Link to comment
Share on other sites


×
×
  • Create New...