1984 F150 clutch pedal switch

[Frogger2662]

Would a 1984 F150 4 speed manual origionlly have a neutral saftey switch on the transmission or a clutch pedal switch? The transmission was changed to an automatic. I have converted it to a T5.

[Frogger2662]

I found the answer. Mounted on the transmission origionally. Any idea on adding a switch to the pedal? A link to a normally open momentary plunger switch that I could adapt? Thanks

[ArdWrknTrk]

I found the answer. Mounted on the transmission origionally. Any idea on adding a switch to the pedal? A link to a normally open momentary plunger switch that I could adapt? Thanks

By '84 the harness (should) come set up for both, in series.

Whichever transmission goes in, the other plug gets jumpered.

This can be seen in the EVTM here on the site.

[Frogger2662]

By '84 the harness (should) come set up for both, in series.

Whichever transmission goes in, the other plug gets jumpered.

This can be seen in the EVTM here on the site.

The truck does not have the original wiring harness installed. When it was swapped over to an automatic the switch on the aod was wired in. I see no mounting poing on the pedal for a switch.

[ArdWrknTrk]

The truck does not have the original wiring harness installed. When it was swapped over to an automatic the switch on the aod was wired in. I see no mounting poing on the pedal for a switch.

Interesting!

The pedal boxes are the same 83-86, though obviously different, manual or automatic, as is the column and cluster. .

Edit: if you don't have the original harness, im afraid any diagram I might have to offer isn't going to help

 

[viven44]

The truck does not have the original wiring harness installed. When it was swapped over to an automatic the switch on the aod was wired in. I see no mounting poing on the pedal for a switch.

Just mount a switch on the firewall that interrupts the starter relay.

Here is what I did once. I attached a flexible L bracket I cut off a joist hanger and used it to press that switch. If you are interested in this approach I can send links to a couple of switches to try.

A hole is made in the firewall and the threaded switch is attached to it using 2 nuts (one inside and one outside with a lock washer). In this implementation, the switch was physically pressed only when the clutch was depressed all the way. This avoided unnecessary wear and tear on the switch while driving. I used a flexible L bracket as I wanted some "give". I'm sure this idea can be implemented in a manner that looks more professional vs. what I've shown here. I just wanted something that worked.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Just mount a switch on the firewall that interrupts the starter relay

Sorry to be pedantic, but be careful with your phrasing.

Let's be clear, that this is a NOSP momentary switch in the blue/red "crank" wire circuit. (what would be B/R, if the factory harness existed)

The switch, -when depressed- allows power to flow from the switch on the 'lower' steering column to the 'S' terminal of the fender mounted starter relay.

It might be wise to have a low durometer rubber bumper push the switch, so the pedal doesn't hit a hard stop every time the clutch is depressed.

You know, like a gumdrop looking one with a pull through stem you might find in the Dorman or Needa aisle of the parts store.

 

[viven44]

Just mount a switch on the firewall that interrupts the starter relay

Sorry to be pedantic, but be careful with your phrasing.

Let's be clear, that this is a NOSP momentary switch in the blue/red "crank" wire circuit. (what would be B/R, if the factory harness existed)

The switch, -when depressed- allows power to flow from the switch on the 'lower' steering column to the 'S' terminal of the fender mounted starter relay.

It might be wise to have a low durometer rubber bumper push the switch, so the pedal doesn't hit a hard stop every time the clutch is depressed.

You know, like a gumdrop looking one with a pull through stem you might find in the Dorman or Needa aisle of the parts store.

Thanks for clarifying Jim. Yes that is exactly what that is. I picked a switch that could handle 15A although I understand the starter relay needs <5A. The one I chose was a normally-open clutch safety switch meant for a 93 Toyota or Honda, will need to check.

I considered a rubber bumper, that would certainly work best. The one I implemented did not cause the pedal to bump the switch unless the clutch was all the way down. It needed conscious effort to depress the clutch until it stopped. This was only to start the truck.

In normal driving/shifting no one should need to push the clutch pedal that far.

In fact this switch could be mounted anywhere near the steering column and be hand activated, but tying it with a clutch depress would be most pragmatic.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks for clarifying Jim. Yes that is exactly what that is. I picked a switch that could handle 15A although I understand the starter relay needs

 

[viven44]

I'm glad to hear that the switch is intended, and fit for purpose.

Yeah. I hadn't envisioned the "end of stroke" because my truck still has the self adjusting clutch interlock that Jeff didn't understand was supposed to be there.

Sorry.

No worries

This is the switch I used, but any normally open switch that can handle at least 10 amps should work.

Standard Motor Products NS151 Clutch Switch

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C7Y8ZO/?coliid=I38L90YSPJJ12J&colid=3IGQF00LDI4AO&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_lstpd_7RQ9HA974MC53R6J0VXR

Here is another tank of a switch that I found after the fact... I liked it so much I bought it and I have kept it for something else in the future. I am sure it would work as well..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0995T3X9M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1