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PMGR starter upgrade


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Several years ago I upgraded to a pmgr starter. Still running the old style solenoid. Between the two cable's and a smaller terminal I do not have many threads holding the cable tight. Is there any reason why I could not run the large cables to a junction block on the fender? Then come from there to the solenoid with a smaller wire on the battery side.
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Straight from the battery to the starter? How do you energize the solenoid?

In my case, I'm using a little 40A cube -Bosch style- relay in the tiny power distribution center that you see (aft of the battery)

I have high, low, fog light, horn and lighting relays.

A starter relay, that replaces the big Ford fender mounted relay. My PMGR is 40A to pull and 13A to hold.

Edit: you can kinda see the HMEG fuse holder from the 3G screwed to the side of the box beneath my fingers.

IMG_20240317_194645_HDR.jpg.9e8622f29eda5759a52c4488571bea8a.jpg

 

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I was trying to avoid buying anything else. Allready have the junction block. I see no reason I cannot go straight to the starter with my two existing cables. Go from the block to the existing solenoid on the battery side with a smaller wire.

Am I thinking about this correctly?

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I was trying to avoid buying anything else. Allready have the junction block. I see no reason I cannot go straight to the starter with my two existing cables. Go from the block to the existing solenoid on the battery side with a smaller wire.

Am I thinking about this correctly?

You can use any stud as a junction.

I don't understand what you mean by "smaller wire". :nabble_anim_confused:

What gauge are you talking about?

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You can use any stud as a junction.

I don't understand what you mean by "smaller wire". :nabble_anim_confused:

What gauge are you talking about?

When my Cole Hersee smart battery isolator didn't have enough stud length for the wires I was using I bought one of these repair studs. It screwed right on and gave me more stud for the wires. Don't know if it'll work for you. But you could always put another junction block somewhere else, although then you'll need a jumper to it.

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When my Cole Hersee smart battery isolator didn't have enough stud length for the wires I was using I bought one of these repair studs. It screwed right on and gave me more stud for the wires. Don't know if it'll work for you. But you could always put another junction block somewhere else, although then you'll need a jumper to it.

Never thought of something like that. Good idea. If i was to use a jumper wire what size/guage would I need. Wondering how much current the solinoid requires to hold it engaged not counting starter amp draw?

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Never thought of something like that. Good idea. If i was to use a jumper wire what size/guage would I need. Wondering how much current the solinoid requires to hold it engaged not counting starter amp draw?

I think Jim is the one that recommended that thing to me, but it wasn't my idea.

As for the relay draw, the one I have on the bench pulls 3.5A to engage. But I'm confused as to how you would be wiring this, and I know Jim is. Please enlighten us.

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Never thought of something like that. Good idea. If i was to use a jumper wire what size/guage would I need. Wondering how much current the solinoid requires to hold it engaged not counting starter amp draw?

I said above...... 40A to pull and 13A to hold.

Gary has the data sheet from my starter posted in the PMGR upgrade section.

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