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"Bullnose" lawn tractor project


Ifitaintbroke

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So I've got this ancient Craftsman riding mower. The deck was rusted out, and I removed it. I put a sleeve hitch on it and have currently been using it as a tractor. Problem is, the engine is shot. It ran and pretty good, but I had to put oil in it about every 30 minutes. Had pretty good power too. I pulled the engine and tore it down. It is a Briggs and Stratton 18hp opposed twin. Not too common these days. Most people I mention it to have never heard of one. Even my boss who has been working on small engine for 30+ years. Cylinders were pretty well worn, but they have cast iron sleeves, so boring oversize is not a big deal. A rebuild kit is about $280 with pistons and rods. Cost of machining is TBD. Problem is this: the crank appears to be unusable. The timing gear is held in place by a small key with a pin on the bottom that is pressed into the crank. Somehow, this has sheared off. Now, the timing gear does not have full travel, but does move back and forth a good bit. What doesn't make sense is that the engine was running great and had plenty of power. I also can see no way that I broke it while disassembling the engine. A replacement crank can be had, for about $275. Obviously that is not worthwhile. I can also get a used crank on ebay for about $15-$20. But the only ones available are not for my exact engine. I've read that they can be interchanged though. Other options: there is a 19.5hp opposed twin for sale on ebay, supposedly running, but needing gaskets. They want $350 for it, plus $50 shipping. Sounds great, as my full cost on rebuilding this engine may well be at or above that. One problem though: it's a vertical shaft model. From what I've read, converting one from vertical to horizontal is pretty straightforward, and I already have all the required parts. Just a matter of taking the sump and front cover, plus the correct oil slinger (these things are usually splash lubed, a few pressurized ones were made, but they aren't common.) As far as fixing the original crank, it may be possible. If the pin can be removed, a new one can be had and installed. Timing gear is shot, but I can get one for about $10. We'll see how it goes.
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I'd say get yourself a Predator Honda clone and be done with it.

I get it, you want something to screw around with.

I'm subscribed to follow the journey! 👍

I would, but it's not that easy. The drive to the rear wheels does not use a standard size pulley. The pulley attachment is also different. The Predators look great, and I have a 212cc that I adore, but the biggest they offer for a reasonable price is 15.8hp. It's also a pull cord start. The v-twin is $1000.

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What model Craftsman tractor? I have a 1972 GTV16 that has a belt drive system that is interesting to say the least. Front belt layout looks like it was stolen from a Corvair, rear is fairly normal. Engine is a Briggs & Stratton 402417 16hp opposed flathead twin that is a horizontal shaft version.

Left_side.jpg.5238ca800d1c6e7b6714b42048087304.jpg

I acquired a sleeve hitch for it after my former department manager bought it on eBay for his ST16. He found out the major difference between a Craftsman GT and ST, the frame width.

There are several groups for Craftsman or Sears tractors. As with many items Sears sold, they weren't made by Sears, but for them. Riding mowers and tractors had 3 main sources, Murray, for the cheap lines, MTD for the mid lines and AYP (American Yard Products) for the high end.

For Gary Lewis, here is another opposed twin powered tractor, a Ford YT16H:

Ford_in_front_broken_John_Deere_in_back.jpg.1ef0f3f89f65e72b25bb42e9dfdd29d3.jpg

 

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What model Craftsman tractor? I have a 1972 GTV16 that has a belt drive system that is interesting to say the least. Front belt layout looks like it was stolen from a Corvair, rear is fairly normal. Engine is a Briggs & Stratton 402417 16hp opposed flathead twin that is a horizontal shaft version.

I acquired a sleeve hitch for it after my former department manager bought it on eBay for his ST16. He found out the major difference between a Craftsman GT and ST, the frame width.

There are several groups for Craftsman or Sears tractors. As with many items Sears sold, they weren't made by Sears, but for them. Riding mowers and tractors had 3 main sources, Murray, for the cheap lines, MTD for the mid lines and AYP (American Yard Products) for the high end.

For Gary Lewis, here is another opposed twin powered tractor, a Ford YT16H:

It is a mid 80s GT18 supposedly a 1985 model. Here she is:

20240217_101942.jpg.8805c260c3860bf696d90f1ac8dd36f5.jpg

20240217_101949.jpg.c384f1781baf3fcd047ae1403069fb01.jpg

What's left of her anyway.

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I think I'm starting to collect small engines. But only 4 cycle. I don't play well with 2 strokes.

Two strokes are good for weed wackers and chainsaws as they will run in any position.

Here are some pictures of a few of my engine collection:

Craftsman (Tecumseh) 10 hp cast iron engine.

DSCN0724.jpg.fc1e08ad58b3e2e5943ada30f55946b9.jpg DSCN0725.jpg.98fbe33b38be849653a53855dec9a235.jpg DSCN0726.jpg.e86514d6e45908dfabfc0fa2c5ace32f.jpg

Rare Tecumseh OHV V-twin, OV691EA. MTD wanted 18 HP, so Tecumseh sold then an 18 HP engine. It is actually more like 25 HP.

DSCN0906a.jpg.1b4fcd34b3ffdd68825da9877566b35f.jpg DSCN0970a.jpg.ba0eefe70d6766fbd163944816f78528.jpg

Here is my 16 HP Briggs & Stratton engine from my GTV16.

DSCN0599.jpg.2d00fd8f903e7237c940b0bf379b966a.jpg DSCN0617.jpg.ab335e110635f1471a9a24934d9d39c8.jpg DSCN0619.jpg.594f61631359ba041f114df184ea6d27.jpg

 

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Two strokes are good for weed wackers and chainsaws as they will run in any position.

Here are some pictures of a few of my engine collection:

Craftsman (Tecumseh) 10 hp cast iron engine.

Rare Tecumseh OHV V-twin, OV691EA. MTD wanted 18 HP, so Tecumseh sold then an 18 HP engine. It is actually more like 25 HP.

Here is my 16 HP Briggs & Stratton engine from my GTV16.

Just ordered the rebuild kit and another crank. Looks like this is going to cost $500 total, but that's still way cheaper than a new engine.

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