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Stabalizer Bar nut suggestions


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I had never heard of such a thing but I remember seeing nuts with similar markings. So this has brought about more questions ...

I checked the 3 part numbers for the nuts involved. The front and back use the same 3 nuts: 620482, 620469, and 384485.

All are listed is lock nuts of the type you and Mat mentioned. The first two are metric course, M10 and M12, flange nuts. The catalog does not mention a specific thread size and when I search I get all sorts of options.

Also, there is no grade mentioned.

The last one is 3/8-16 Grade 5. All I can find is Grade 8. I read that using a higher grade nut can damage your bolt. I don't know what Grade the bolt is.

itis true that if you use a locknut harder than the bolt then the weaker takes the hit, flattened threads. galling etc. when in doubt the idea of locking two nuts together still works.

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  • 2 weeks later...
I ended up sending back the bushings I previous purchased and got a set from Moog. The Moog sets came with lock nuts that looked much more like the original parts. I've been out of town for the last week but I'm hoping to get working on these this week.
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I ended up sending back the bushings I previous purchased and got a set from Moog. The Moog sets came with lock nuts that looked much more like the original parts. I've been out of town for the last week but I'm hoping to get working on these this week.

Probably a good idea.

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  • 3 months later...

We have that whole section on the page at Documentation/Suspension & Steering/Front Suspension & then the Instructions tab followed by the 4WD tab. And there I see that the nut is PN 620469. But we don't have that in the parts list.

However, going to the page at Documentation/Reference/Standard & Utility Parts Catalog I see that it is an M12 coarse thread Type 18, which does show to be a lock nut.

If yours have stayed tight then they may be ok. Personally I'd get a Nyloc nut and put on there.

We are finally getting back to this. We finished pulling the rear sway bar and end links off this evening. Bushings were completely shot and some of the hardware is severely worn.

I found the end links pretty easily and compared measurements to what I have and the book. Those are ordered.

I'm having trouble with the u-bolts though. One is severely rusted and I don't trust re-using it. As best I can tell from the shop manual, it should be part 800836 or N800836-S Bolt, - "U” M10 x 94.5/115.8. My existing u-bolts appear to match that description. Unfortunately, I cannot locate anything near this size for sale.

Has anyone run into this?

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We are finally getting back to this. We finished pulling the rear sway bar and end links off this evening. Bushings were completely shot and some of the hardware is severely worn.

I found the end links pretty easily and compared measurements to what I have and the book. Those are ordered.

I'm having trouble with the u-bolts though. One is severely rusted and I don't trust re-using it. As best I can tell from the shop manual, it should be part 800836 or N800836-S Bolt, - "U” M10 x 94.5/115.8. My existing u-bolts appear to match that description. Unfortunately, I cannot locate anything near this size for sale.

Has anyone run into this?

It just holds the sway bar mount, right?

Any spring shop should be able to bend one for you.

The size is a bit odd, but I imagine a 3/8 x 3 3/4 x 4 3/4 bolt would also work, -given the dimensions- with a little persuasion.

Clamping bolts like this distort quite a bit when you tighten them anyhow.

ETA:

https://www.uboltsdirect.com/product/3-8-u-bolts-round-38-x-3-34-inside-width/

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It just holds the sway bar mount, right?

Any spring shop should be able to bend one for you.

The size is a bit odd, but I imagine a 3/8 x 3 3/4 x 4 3/4 bolt would also work, -given the dimensions- with a little persuasion.

Clamping bolts like this distort quite a bit when you tighten them anyhow.

ETA:

https://www.uboltsdirect.com/product/3-8-u-bolts-round-38-x-3-34-inside-width/

Yes, these are the u-bolts that hold the sway bar mounts to the axle.

That site does have a length that would work but the specs on the bolt don't match the service manual.

The bolts on the website are listed at 26 ft lbs of torque. The service manual states the bolts should be torqued to 35-50 ft lbs. From what I can tell, it sounds like the factory bolt is probably Grade 8 and not Grade 5.

 

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Yes, these are the u-bolts that hold the sway bar mounts to the axle.

That site does have a length that would work but the specs on the bolt don't match the service manual.

The bolts on the website are listed at 26 ft lbs of torque. The service manual states the bolts should be torqued to 35-50 ft lbs. From what I can tell, it sounds like the factory bolt is probably Grade 8 and not Grade 5.

It's a fine thread bolt.

You can't imagine how much tension you can get on a fine thread bolt, vs coarse.

It's clamping force you care about.

Do I have to go look up the numbers?

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It's a fine thread bolt.

You can't imagine how much tension you can get on a fine thread bolt, vs coarse.

It's clamping force you care about.

Do I have to go look up the numbers?

What do you make of the torque instructions? I can't find any sources showing that high of a torque value on a 3/8 bolt.

IMG_2841_Large.thumb.jpeg.3376590d385a9cab46f7cef62b3f9d3f.jpeg

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What do you make of the torque instructions? I can't find any sources showing that high of a torque value on a 3/8 bolt.

35-50 lb ft?

Don't try that with a fine pitch, it's WAY too much.

Remember, it's clamping force, not torque you care about....

Again, do I need to do the math for you, or can you figure it out yourself?

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35-50 lb ft?

Don't try that with a fine pitch, it's WAY too much.

Remember, it's clamping force, not torque you care about....

Again, do I need to do the math for you, or can you figure it out yourself?

Are you saying the manual is wrong? Based on everything I've found it seems like the manual is either wrong or the factory bolt is Grade 8. And if it is a Grade 8, why are they so darn hard to find?

I forgot to mention, the factory nuts appear to be prevailing torque lock nuts and they have a number 6, or 9, stamped on them in 3 places. I tried figuring that out earlier in the day and gave up.

 

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