ArdWrknTrk Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 Has anyone seen the conversion kit from PA Performance? I was looking through some 3G conversion videos on YouTube and found a 12-year video that mentioned it. Their approach includes an external regulator of some sort. I can't find their actual info sheet or an explanation of their regulator box but there are bits of info throughout the video and I did find some testing documentation. https://www.paperformance.com/1g-3g-conversion-462802c/ https://www.paperformance.com/content/1G_to_3G_Conversion.pdf The regulator is just a dummy, so everything looks like an old style 1G It does make it more of a plug n play setup Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtymac Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 The regulator is just a dummy, so everything looks like an old style 1G It does make it more of a plug n play setup Can you clarify? It is passing power through it so the original setup works? If it failed, you couldn't just swap it with an off the shelf voltage regulator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 Can you clarify? It is passing power through it so the original setup works? If it failed, you couldn't just swap it with an off the shelf voltage regulator? The 3G has an internal regulator. It's just a dummy chrome box for them to make their connections, and accept the existing harness plug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtymac Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 The 3G has an internal regulator. It's just a dummy chrome box for them to make their connections, and accept the existing harness plug So there "should" never be a need to replace their box? I may reach out to them to get more info on what's inside the box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 So there "should" never be a need to replace their box? I may reach out to them to get more info on what's inside the box. You can ask.... It's probably "proprietary information" 😂 I'd bet if you tore one open there'd be a bunch of potted splices and likely a chunk of weight to make it feel more substantial. I don't have a real high opinion of them. Kinda like Power master or DUI. They don't offer anything substantial other than the hype about their products. Not to say "bad" products, just that they over sell and under deliver. (quality isn't what it should be for the price) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 26 Author Share Posted January 26 You can ask.... It's probably "proprietary information" 😂 I'd bet if you tore one open there'd be a bunch of potted splices and likely a chunk of weight to make it feel more substantial. I don't have a real high opinion of them. Kinda like Power master or DUI. They don't offer anything substantial other than the hype about their products. Not to say "bad" products, just that they over sell and under deliver. (quality isn't what it should be for the price) Well folks, we sorta have a winner! Down below are pics of C323 from the ignition module plugged into C610, without modification, and a comparison of C323, on the left, and C610. I was WRONG! However, Auveco says their Item No: 20844 has #16 wires. And if you look at the EVTM, not only does that connector carry all of the power to the cab, but in trucks with an aux battery it supplies all of the current from the alternator to the aux battery - which could be a bunch with a 3G! So I'm not convinced that we should use the Auveco connector since it already has #16 wires in it and they aren't removable from what I can see. The #16 wire wouldn't even be a good "fuse link" as those are usually only 4 sizes smaller than the main wire, which appears to be a #10, and are covered by a special insulation to prevent melt-thru. So I think we'd have to find the connectors w/o wires already in them to be safe. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 Well folks, we sorta have a winner! Down below are pics of C323 from the ignition module plugged into C610, without modification, and a comparison of C323, on the left, and C610. I was WRONG! However, Auveco says their Item No: 20844 has #16 wires. And if you look at the EVTM, not only does that connector carry all of the power to the cab, but in trucks with an aux battery it supplies all of the current from the alternator to the aux battery - which could be a bunch with a 3G! So I'm not convinced that we should use the Auveco connector since it already has #16 wires in it and they aren't removable from what I can see. The #16 wire wouldn't even be a good "fuse link" as those are usually only 4 sizes smaller than the main wire, which appears to be a #10, and are covered by a special insulation to prevent melt-thru. So I think we'd have to find the connectors w/o wires already in them to be safe. Thoughts? I already suggested just running a wire from where the two fuselinks for the cab splice into 37 that goes into C610, but not everybody likes that idea.... 🙄 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 26 Author Share Posted January 26 I already suggested just running a wire from where the two fuselinks for the cab splice into 37 that goes into C610, but not everybody likes that idea.... 🙄 But that wouldn't be plug & play. You'd have to bypass C610. And if we can't find a good C610 connector that can carry the current then maybe we should think about a replacement connector for C610. The use would have to cut the connector off and add the new one. But that's going to put a lot of people off. Here's the cab side of C610 and you can see there's only 4 wires and the black thing is S101 where those two fuse links join the yellow #10 of Ckt 37: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 26 Author Share Posted January 26 But that wouldn't be plug & play. You'd have to bypass C610. And if we can't find a good C610 connector that can carry the current then maybe we should think about a replacement connector for C610. The use would have to cut the connector off and add the new one. But that's going to put a lot of people off. Here's the cab side of C610 and you can see there's only 4 wires and the black thing is S101 where those two fuse links join the yellow #10 of Ckt 37: Or, maybe I missed your point. Maybe you didn't mean to cut C610 off completely, but to cut the yellow #10 off near it, put a terminal on it, and take it to the megafuse holder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 Or, maybe I missed your point. Maybe you didn't mean to cut C610 off completely, but to cut the yellow #10 off near it, put a terminal on it, and take it to the megafuse holder? We've already heard THAT splice was completely destroyed. Maybe I'm the only one who's conscious of wire gauges and listening to the conversation? I understand the rabbit hole you've dug but I'm not going down there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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