dirtymac Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 Thanks. I soldered the eyelet onto the Y/LG so it can go to the fender as a ground, and the R/O wire to the LG/R wires, plural, meaning the one coming out of C610 and the one coming from the alternator's big plug. And I used a hydraulic crimper to put the eyelets on the Bk/O wire that is the alternator's output as well as the R wire that is the link from the fuse to the starter relay. And all of those joints were covered with adhesive-lined heat shrink. As for the W/Bk wire, it does come off of the big plug on the harness that connects to the alternator. But it ends in a single-terminal connector that shows as C231 on the schematic. Trucks with a stator-powered choke will have a W/Bk wire coming to the alternator with a matching connector. If you are not using the white/black wire to power a choke, then it gets plugged back into the alternator, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 If you are not using the white/black wire to power a choke, then it gets plugged back into the alternator, right? If you ARE using it to power the choke then it has to do BOTH. In ANY case, it has to go from regulator to stator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtymac Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 If you ARE using it to power the choke then it has to do BOTH. In ANY case, it has to go from regulator to stator Got it. I'll get the pigtail. I don't think I'm going to need it for the choke after all but I'll post about that on my other thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtymac Posted May 5 Share Posted May 5 Ok, Jim, I think I understand. But do we need to number our splices? Anyway, I'm essentially done. I'll show a couple of pics, but all this needs is a #10-12 eyelet for a 5/16" stud and a "properly sized" fuse. The first pic is of the charge cable I had handy that I'd pulled off another Ford vehicle. The second is of the "almost done" plug & play 3G harness, including a megafuse holder and a link from it to the starter relay. I've assumed that there will be a handy place near the starter relay for the fuse, like where the regulator was. There's plenty of wire to reach that spot, and even a connector to the choke if the truck is using the stator to power it. This should be perfect for a truck with gauges, but we will have to caution people about adding more load in the cab as that #12 yellow wire and/or C610 isn't going to handle much more current. However, that's really no different than with the 1G or 2G alternator as the battery will give them more than 60A of current if they put the load on it. What is different is if they have an aux battery. When the key is turned on the aux battery relay parallels the two batteries and if the aux is dead or low the starting battery will try to bring it up. But that really won't be a lot of current as batteries don't charge batteries all that well. Where the extra current comes from is the alternator, and apparently that #12 wire and C610 is adequate for 60A. But a 3G is a whole different ball game and it would be easy to try to send 100A through there to charge the aux battery. Last, we also need to think about a 3G for a truck w/o gauges, and that turns out to be an easy problem to solve. No C610. In fact, there's no aux battery shown in the EVTM for trucks w/o gauges, so I'm guessing that gauges were required if you ordered an aux battery. Gary can you have a look at my junkyard harness? I remember it coming out of the appropriate donor car from the list, but not specifically which one. My concern is that my harness has 2 black/orange wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 5 Author Share Posted May 5 Gary can you have a look at my junkyard harness? I remember it coming out of the appropriate donor car from the list, but not specifically which one. My concern is that my harness has 2 black/orange wires. Ford seemed to like to parallel two smaller wires than using one large wire. Maybe for flexibility? Just terminate both of them to the same place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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