ArdWrknTrk Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 3G you have the choice of 95A (small 135mm case) or 130A (larger 148mm case) These reliably put out 125 & 160A respectively. Your current setup is definitely 7" C-C. If you want the 130A get the 8.25" for adjustability. I don't know how your belts are set up now but finding a crank pulley with adjacent sheaves that are the same size is challenging at best..... I have a single belt and with a LRC regulator I have no squeak on startup or slippage (but I do have good belt wrap) 💡 Gary has a larger dual sheave alternator pulley I sent him from L&L, but he's not using it because he went EFI with a serpentine (polygroove) belt. Maybe the two of you can work something out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtymac Posted January 30 Author Share Posted January 30 3G you have the choice of 95A (small 135mm case) or 130A (larger 148mm case) These reliably put out 125 & 160A respectively. Your current setup is definitely 7" C-C. If you want the 130A get the 8.25" for adjustability. I don't know how your belts are set up now but finding a crank pulley with adjacent sheaves that are the same size is challenging at best..... I have a single belt and with a LRC regulator I have no squeak on startup or slippage (but I do have good belt wrap) I have seen the DB Electric AFD0028 mentioned and I was considering that. I'm not sure if it has an LRC regulator or not. It also comes with a serpentine belt pulley. I'm not sure if I can just swap my pulley out or not. As for the crank pulley, the sheaves that the alternator and compressor ride on do have a bit of a gap between them. The pulley shown in the 3G conversion document looks like it might work though. However, if I don't need two belts I can stick with one. What exactly do you mean by good belt wrap? I haven't heard that phrase before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 3G you have the choice of 95A (small 135mm case) or 130A (larger 148mm case) These reliably put out 125 & 160A respectively. Your current setup is definitely 7" C-C. If you want the 130A get the 8.25" for adjustability. I don't know how your belts are set up now but finding a crank pulley with adjacent sheaves that are the same size is challenging at best..... I have a single belt and with a LRC regulator I have no squeak on startup or slippage (but I do have good belt wrap) Right - going to dual belts is extremely challenging. I had to make the pulley for Dad’s truck by altering a pulley on the lathe since I couldn’t find a 2-belt pulley with tho grooves the same size. So I wouldn’t bother to go to two belts. Follow Jim’s lead, but get an LRC regulator. Load Reduction Control ramps up the charging over several seconds instead of bringing it on quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 💡 Gary has a larger dual sheave alternator pulley I sent him from L&L, but he's not using it because he went EFI with a serpentine (polygroove) belt. Maybe the two of you can work something out? I’d forgotten about that, Jim. I’ll look to see that I still have it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 I have seen the DB Electric AFD0028 mentioned and I was considering that. I'm not sure if it has an LRC regulator or not. It also comes with a serpentine belt pulley. I'm not sure if I can just swap my pulley out or not. As for the crank pulley, the sheaves that the alternator and compressor ride on do have a bit of a gap between them. The pulley shown in the 3G conversion document looks like it might work though. However, if I don't need two belts I can stick with one. What exactly do you mean by good belt wrap? I haven't heard that phrase before. The shafts are all 17 mm. You just swap it out, but sometimes you need a tiny shim behind to keep the pulley from rubbing on the case. (Depending on the specific pulley) The belt goes halfway around... So the traction area of the rubber belt on the pulley is good. Instead of some setup where the belt only wraps a third of the way around or less. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 Right - going to dual belts is extremely challenging. I had to make the pulley for Dad’s truck by altering a pulley on the lathe since I couldn’t find a 2-belt pulley with tho grooves the same size. So I wouldn’t bother to go to two belts. Follow Jim’s lead, but get an LRC regulator. Load Reduction Control ramps up the charging over several seconds instead of bringing it on quickly. Load Response Control..... Yes, I'm a pedant. 🤣 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtymac Posted January 30 Author Share Posted January 30 The shafts are all 17 mm. You just swap it out, but sometimes you need a tiny shim behind to keep the pulley from rubbing on the case. (Depending on the specific pulley) The belt goes halfway around... So the traction area of the rubber belt on the pulley is good. Instead of some setup where the belt only wraps a third of the way around or less. I read about the shims so that is on my list. And ok on the belt wrap. I think I have a good amount of wrap now with the 1G. It looks like it is half way or close to that. I wonder about the 8.25" case though. I don't have a lot of extra length on the bracket. I may need to remove the 1G and take some measures before I make a decision. Where can I find a decent LRC if the DB Electric doesn't have one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 Load Response Control..... Yes, I'm a pedant. 🤣 Good catch - yes “response” not “reduction”. Same load, but just responded to slowly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 I read about the shims so that is on my list. And ok on the belt wrap. I think I have a good amount of wrap now with the 1G. It looks like it is half way or close to that. I wonder about the 8.25" case though. I don't have a lot of extra length on the bracket. I may need to remove the 1G and take some measures before I make a decision. Where can I find a decent LRC if the DB Electric doesn't have one? The extra length is only 5/8" from C to pivot, but that puts the larger body of the alternator a bit farther away from the block and bracket so it has some room to swing. If you go with the 7" 130 there is no room for adjustment. The adjuster arm fits fine in every case I've seen, but maybe mock it up in cardboard or something if you're worried. I would try Maniac Electric Motors. They've always been very responsive and quick to ship, for me. Be sure to get the correct shape regulator to fit the pigtail you just bought. Some are 'D' shaped and others more rectangular. I don't have it all here in front of me, but I know the pitfalls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 The extra length is only 5/8" from C to pivot, but that puts the larger body of the alternator a bit farther away from the block and bracket so it has some room to swing. If you go with the 7" 130 there is no room for adjustment. The adjuster arm fits fine in every case I've seen, but maybe mock it up in cardboard or something if you're worried. I would try Maniac Electric Motors. They've always been very responsive and quick to ship, for me. Be sure to get the correct shape regulator to fit the pigtail you just bought. Some are 'D' shaped and others more rectangular. I don't have it all here in front of me, but I know the pitfalls. You probably want the D shaped F795 LRC regulators are white not grey. Here's one on eBay, cheap... https://www.ebay.com/itm/255635368543?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Eo-X25ItSQu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=V52-0s-ZTpm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=EMAIL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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