dirtymac Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 I don't see a regulator connection labeled "S", but the one labeled "I" in the EVTM goes to the "indicator switch". So I could see that one getting labeled "S" by someone, and we've seen these inconsistencies in the documentation before. And there's only one green wire in the schematic going to the regulator, which should be the LG/R wire going to C610. And it would make sense if someone tapped into it to pull in a relay as it is hot in Run. The S label I am referring to is on the physical voltage regular connector. I'm going to try and clean these wires up a bit more so I can read the rest of the colors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 The S label I am referring to is on the physical voltage regular connector. I'm going to try and clean these wires up a bit more so I can read the rest of the colors. That's interesting. I don't doubt you at all, but I have what I'm sure is an original regulator connector still on the C610 harness I'm playing with and it doesn't have any terminal designations on it that I can find. Just the ID# of D8ZB-14489-AA. Where are your terminal designations? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtymac Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 That's interesting. I don't doubt you at all, but I have what I'm sure is an original regulator connector still on the C610 harness I'm playing with and it doesn't have any terminal designations on it that I can find. Just the ID# of D8ZB-14489-AA. Where are your terminal designations? Ok I have things cleaned up a bit better. The markings are actually on the Voltage Regulator, I (no wire), A (two yellow wires), S (green?) and F (a striped wire). The wire coming out of the port labeled S goes into the bundle and on it's way my relay is tied in. There is another green wire coming out of the bundle and going to C610. I'm not color blind but I also don't know what age and heat have done to these things. I wouldn't call that wire light green though. The yellow wire attached to the shunt goes a good distance on mine. The loop is actually only about 6" away from where the other wires connect to the alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtymac Posted January 29 Author Share Posted January 29 Right. The original 2bbl carb had a choke that was run from the stator output of the alternator. That puts a 1/2 wave rectified voltage that should measure about 7 volts on most DVMs. But if they put a relay on they probably were sending full battery voltage to the choke, which wouldn't have worked well. Or, they may have put the relay on if they changed out the carb, as many aftermarket carbs take battery voltage. I think I'm going to replace the choke cap. I don't trust it or the relay the previous owner installed. I have only found 12v choke caps -- some with a thermostat of sorts. I've read through multiple threads where you mention these will work with the stator connection but that the choke may not pull off as quick. I also do not have the exaust pre-heat hooked up I also saw that you mentioned hooking a relay up with the stator, is that right? These were posts from 2017 mind you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 I think I'm going to replace the choke cap. I don't trust it or the relay the previous owner installed. I have only found 12v choke caps -- some with a thermostat of sorts. I've read through multiple threads where you mention these will work with the stator connection but that the choke may not pull off as quick. I also do not have the exaust pre-heat hooked up I also saw that you mentioned hooking a relay up with the stator, is that right? These were posts from 2017 mind you. I would stay away from choke caps with a thermostat in them as I don't know how they work. But ones without thermostats were used by GM for decades with no problems. As for a 12v cap running off the stator, it will work but it isn't perfect. Takes a long time to come off and, therefore, you want to set them so they don't go on as far as they might otherwise. Meaning you need to set them leaner than you would. So I'd use a relay that is pulled in by the stator and then power the 12v choke with full battery power. The stator easily pulls in a standard Bosch relay, so you would have power to the choke only when the engine is running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 I would stay away from choke caps with a thermostat in them as I don't know how they work. But ones without thermostats were used by GM for decades with no problems. As for a 12v cap running off the stator, it will work but it isn't perfect. Takes a long time to come off and, therefore, you want to set them so they don't go on as far as they might otherwise. Meaning you need to set them leaner than you would. So I'd use a relay that is pulled in by the stator and then power the 12v choke with full battery power. The stator easily pulls in a standard Bosch relay, so you would have power to the choke only when the engine is running. Gary, can you pull Will a 351HO schematic? It's sleeting here and the roads are claiming victims continually. It's not fun being on the same blind corner that just took out a car with traffic rushing past. 😨 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 Gary, can you pull Will a 351HO schematic? It's sleeting here and the roads are claiming victims continually. It's not fun being on the same blind corner that just took out a car with traffic rushing past. 😨 Jim - Please be safe! Will - Here's how Ford did it. You can see that the relay is pulled in via the stator and the W/Bk wire, and gets its power from the starter relay and a fuse link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 Jim - Please be safe! Will - Here's how Ford did it. You can see that the relay is pulled in via the stator and the W/Bk wire, and gets its power from the starter relay and a fuse link. Thanks! I'm trying to thaw my hands and the icy wet stream that ran down the back of my neck. I wish I had dry clothes and a place to change right now. The "adventure" gets old real fast when you're past 60. 😂😂😂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 Thanks! I'm trying to thaw my hands and the icy wet stream that ran down the back of my neck. I wish I had dry clothes and a place to change right now. The "adventure" gets old real fast when you're past 60. 😂😂😂 We have friends that camped out in their own backyard at 0F to test their new tent. At 76, if you get me that close to my bed you won’t be able to stop me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 We have friends that camped out in their own backyard at 0F to test their new tent. At 76, if you get me that close to my bed you won’t be able to stop me. . :nabble_smiley_good: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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