ArdWrknTrk Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 Not a spade connector? My choke has a single spade connector on it. No bullets and only one wire. I must be looking in the wrong place for this white/black wire. Does it by chance go straight from the alternator to the choke? If it comes up the harness to the starter relay, I can't identify it. Probably straight from the alternator (mine is) But with a 1G the wiring was different between the regulator and alternator depending if you had an ammeter or idiot lights. You already know someone hacked up the choke wiring to install a relay (wrongly) Who knows what -if anything- is left of the old setup? Bill recently posted a good photo of a Motorcraft choke cap. It has a brown (Bakelite?) Oval on the side with a single bullet sticking out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtymac Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 Probably straight from the alternator (mine is) But with a 1G the wiring was different between the regulator and alternator depending if you had an ammeter or idiot lights. You already know someone hacked up the choke wiring to install a relay (wrongly) Who knows what -if anything- is left of the old setup? Bill recently posted a good photo of a Motorcraft choke cap. It has a brown (Bakelite?) Oval on the side with a single bullet sticking out. I do have an ammeter and as far as I know, no idiot light. This pic was from before the carb work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 I do have an ammeter and as far as I know, no idiot light. This pic was from before the carb work. Right. So maybe you should look at the appropriate EVTM to see how the charge wiring differs between the two. If you're going 3G or one-wire all that's going to have to change anyway. And, I have to say that does look like a factory choke cap, but I've never seen one with a spade at the edge. 🌠Perhaps Bill can fill me in on what carbs/trucks came like that? I really hate to have or give bad information. Sorry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtymac Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 Right. So maybe you should look at the appropriate EVTM to see how the charge wiring differs between the two. If you're going 3G or one-wire all that's going to have to change anyway. And, I have to say that does look like a factory choke cap, but I've never seen one with a spade at the edge. 🌠Perhaps Bill can fill me in on what carbs/trucks came like that? I really hate to have or give bad information. Sorry I'm definitely going to a 3G. If the weather is nice tomorrow I'm going to pull the alternator and have a closer look at the wires on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 I'm definitely going to a 3G. If the weather is nice tomorrow I'm going to pull the alternator and have a closer look at the wires on it. :nabble_smiley_good: Tomorrow for me is the only day without rain before it freezes up and changes to 'wintry mix' so although no sun, it starts raining at 1AM Sunday right through to Monday morning. Do you know how much I love working overnights???? 🤪 Off to Horrid Fate for more tools I'll never use first thing. I hope to get my destroyed pinion yoke off, seal and crush collar replaced, gear oil changed (no drain on a 10.25) the cover glued back on and driveshaft back in so I can have RWD again. Wish me luck. 😆 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtymac Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 :nabble_smiley_good: Tomorrow for me is the only day without rain before it freezes up and changes to 'wintry mix' so although no sun, it starts raining at 1AM Sunday right through to Monday morning. Do you know how much I love working overnights???? 🤪 Off to Horrid Fate for more tools I'll never use first thing. I hope to get my destroyed pinion yoke off, seal and crush collar replaced, gear oil changed (no drain on a 10.25) the cover glued back on and driveshaft back in so I can have RWD again. Wish me luck. 😆 Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 Good luck! . Thanks! I hope your wiring investigation goes well, as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtymac Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 Right. The original 2bbl carb had a choke that was run from the stator output of the alternator. That puts a 1/2 wave rectified voltage that should measure about 7 volts on most DVMs. But if they put a relay on they probably were sending full battery voltage to the choke, which wouldn't have worked well. Or, they may have put the relay on if they changed out the carb, as many aftermarket carbs take battery voltage. I spent some time this morning trying to map out the relay and other changes in my situation. First, there is no stator wire connected to my alternator. It has been removed completely. If i understand the schematics, on all but the 4.9L, the stator wire went to the choke and that was it. Second, I can't find the info on my current electric choke but I'm pretty sure I had found that it was supposed to get 7v. It appears to be getting 12v currently. I have a green wire coming off the Voltage Regulator port labeled S. It goes into the bundle that connects the C610 to the alternator. This added relay has been jumpered into that green wire before it goes into the bundle. I'm not sure if its the same green wire going back to the C610 or not. I'm afraid to open this bundle anymore than I have now. I still need to clean some of these wires up a bit so I can read them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 I spent some time this morning trying to map out the relay and other changes in my situation. First, there is no stator wire connected to my alternator. It has been removed completely. If i understand the schematics, on all but the 4.9L, the stator wire went to the choke and that was it. Second, I can't find the info on my current electric choke but I'm pretty sure I had found that it was supposed to get 7v. It appears to be getting 12v currently. I have a green wire coming off the Voltage Regulator port labeled S. It goes into the bundle that connects the C610 to the alternator. This added relay has been jumpered into that green wire before it goes into the bundle. I'm not sure if its the same green wire going back to the C610 or not. I'm afraid to open this bundle anymore than I have now. I still need to clean some of these wires up a bit so I can read them. I don't see a regulator connection labeled "S", but the one labeled "I" in the EVTM goes to the "indicator switch". So I could see that one getting labeled "S" by someone, and we've seen these inconsistencies in the documentation before. And there's only one green wire in the schematic going to the regulator, which should be the LG/R wire going to C610. And it would make sense if someone tapped into it to pull in a relay as it is hot in Run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 I don't see a regulator connection labeled "S", but the one labeled "I" in the EVTM goes to the "indicator switch". So I could see that one getting labeled "S" by someone, and we've seen these inconsistencies in the documentation before. And there's only one green wire in the schematic going to the regulator, which should be the LG/R wire going to C610. And it would make sense if someone tapped into it to pull in a relay as it is hot in Run. This is why I said to go to the EVTM and compare/contrast the setup for ammeter v idiot lights. Let me Since my best laid plans are SNAFU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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