Gary Lewis Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 Which one of the three =) Are you up to soldering? Can you put terminals on #10 wires? If so, I'd do the Done Right approach. What kind of a hurry are you in? I ask because I'm planning on creating a prototype, but I'm not quite ready to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtymac Posted January 26 Author Share Posted January 26 Are you up to soldering? Can you put terminals on #10 wires? If so, I'd do the Done Right approach. What kind of a hurry are you in? I ask because I'm planning on creating a prototype, but I'm not quite ready to do it. I think I'm somewhere between the Cleaned Up and Done right. I am replacing my ammeter. It should be back in a couple of weeks depending on the RCC schedule. They should have received it two days ago. I still have to source an alternator. I have been reading through the documents and threads on that. I am trying to get 160amp unit but I have to figure out the physical sizing, bracket situation, potential re-clocking, and a dual v-belt setup. I'm not in a hurry otherwise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtymac Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 Will - It looks like your engine-side C610 is good enough to use in the scenario we are talking about. Would you want to try it? Any idea why there would be a relay on the electric choke? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 Any idea why there would be a relay on the electric choke? Probably because someone saw I diagram for a 351HO and decided it was one of Ford's "better ideas" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 Probably because someone saw I diagram for a 351HO and decided it was one of Ford's "better ideas" Right. The original 2bbl carb had a choke that was run from the stator output of the alternator. That puts a 1/2 wave rectified voltage that should measure about 7 volts on most DVMs. But if they put a relay on they probably were sending full battery voltage to the choke, which wouldn't have worked well. Or, they may have put the relay on if they changed out the carb, as many aftermarket carbs take battery voltage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtymac Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 Right. The original 2bbl carb had a choke that was run from the stator output of the alternator. That puts a 1/2 wave rectified voltage that should measure about 7 volts on most DVMs. But if they put a relay on they probably were sending full battery voltage to the choke, which wouldn't have worked well. Or, they may have put the relay on if they changed out the carb, as many aftermarket carbs take battery voltage. Ok that sounds potentially like my situation. Previous owner had two remanufactured carbs installed over a five year period. The one I got it with was undersized and had a sloppy throttle shaft. It did have an electric choke, which I'm still trying to use and figure out. I've been fighting with this electric choke in a white temperature range at this point. From 105 last August down to 18 degrees two weeks ago. My personally rebuilt carb is working well but I'm still sorting out the tuning. I have it idling well (most of the time), but I don't think the choke is working well or consistently. I read that the choke needed 7V and was supposed to be connected to a white wire. This was months ago but I couldn't find a white wire (I was afraid to clean anything electric at that point). I measured the voltage coming to the choke after cranking the truck and it was 12v. I checked the part number and as best I can tell, it needs 7v. I forgot about all of this until last night when I was cleaning things up. If i do have a 7v choke, or replace it with a 7v choke, can I just connect it back t othe green wire its connected to now? It runs down to the alternator, but I have not verified where it goes. Wait, let me go check the schematic ... I can't find a white/black wire coming out from the bundle that goes down to the alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 Ok that sounds potentially like my situation. Previous owner had two remanufactured carbs installed over a five year period. The one I got it with was undersized and had a sloppy throttle shaft. It did have an electric choke, which I'm still trying to use and figure out. I've been fighting with this electric choke in a white temperature range at this point. From 105 last August down to 18 degrees two weeks ago. My personally rebuilt carb is working well but I'm still sorting out the tuning. I have it idling well (most of the time), but I don't think the choke is working well or consistently. I read that the choke needed 7V and was supposed to be connected to a white wire. This was months ago but I couldn't find a white wire (I was afraid to clean anything electric at that point). I measured the voltage coming to the choke after cranking the truck and it was 12v. I checked the part number and as best I can tell, it needs 7v. I forgot about all of this until last night when I was cleaning things up. If i do have a 7v choke, or replace it with a 7v choke, can I just connect it back t othe green wire its connected to now? It runs down to the alternator, but I have not verified where it goes. Wait, let me go check the schematic ... I can't find a white/black wire coming out from the bundle that goes down to the alternator. The white and black stator wire ensures that the choke only opens if the engine is turning. If you set it up for 12v key on, if the engine stalls while it's sitting there warming up the choke continues to come off, and you likely have NO choke* when you go to restart it. Motorcraft 7v chokes have a single bullet connector while 12V caps from Holley or Edelbrock have two spade connectors. It's easy to tell at a glance. AND you can swap a Motorcraft cap onto any Holley carb.....💡 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtymac Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 The white and black stator wire ensures that the choke only opens if the engine is turning. If you set it up for 12v key on, if the engine stalls while it's sitting there warming up the choke continues to come off, and you likely have NO choke* when you go to restart it. Motorcraft 7v chokes have a single bullet connector while 12V caps from Holley or Edelbrock have two spade connectors. It's easy to tell at a glance. AND you can swap a Motorcraft cap onto any Holley carb.....💡 It is a single wire choke, so 7v with a single spade connector :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 It is a single wire choke, so 7v with a single spade connector :) No, not a spade connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtymac Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 No, not a spade connector. Not a spade connector? My choke has a single spade connector on it. No bullets and only one wire. I must be looking in the wrong place for this white/black wire. Does it by chance go straight from the alternator to the choke? If it comes up the harness to the starter relay, I can't identify it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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