dirtymac Posted May 6 Author Share Posted May 6 Good job! I agree with Jim, the pulley & nut doesn't seem to want to come off. I don't have a lock washer and I'm not sure I used Loctite - on this one. (Jim - I think it was the alternator for Dad's truck where I worked the pulley over in the lathe. That's the dual-belt one that I widened one sheave so it'll take the same belt.) But I'm not sure what you mean by "white/black loop between the two 3G connectors". I do show the w/bk wire, but not two connectors. Can you help me understand? Maybe I have the wrong phrasing. The 3-wire connector for the 3G has a white/black wire. There is also the single white-black wire for the stator. Those two are supposed to be connected to each other and then the two connect to the choke heater? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 Maybe I have the wrong phrasing. The 3-wire connector for the 3G has a white/black wire. There is also the single white-black wire for the stator. Those two are supposed to be connected to each other and then the two connect to the choke heater? The wire on the 3-pin 3G connector is the stator wire. And it should go to the choke or the choke relay, whichever you have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 The wire on the 3-pin 3G connector is the stator wire. And it should go to the choke or the choke relay, whichever you have. And it NEEDS to go to the grey single plug between the regulator plug and the charge stud! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtymac Posted May 6 Author Share Posted May 6 The wire on the 3-pin 3G connector is the stator wire. And it should go to the choke or the choke relay, whichever you have. The loop I'm referring to is pictured here. I had two separate plugs, so I joined the two and then brought that to the choke heater. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 And it NEEDS to go to the grey single plug between the regulator plug and the charge stud! Jim - Are you saying it needs to have this wire as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 The loop I'm referring to is pictured here. I had two separate plugs, so I joined the two and then brought that to the choke heater. Ahhh, I think the penny dropped. That's such a good picture, I think I understand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 Ahhh, I think the penny dropped. That's such a good picture, I think I understand. Ok, let me offer this wiring diagram with two changes: 1. The stator wire shows going from the 3-wire connector to the stator spade as well as to the choke. 2. The yellow wire shows going either to the starter relay or the megafuse - but not both. How does that look? Is there a better way to depict it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtymac Posted May 6 Author Share Posted May 6 Ok, let me offer this wiring diagram with two changes: 1. The stator wire shows going from the 3-wire connector to the stator spade as well as to the choke. 2. The yellow wire shows going either to the starter relay or the megafuse - but not both. How does that look? Is there a better way to depict it? That works for me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtymac Posted May 6 Author Share Posted May 6 The large yellow wire connects to the cab harness at C610 and on the cab side splits through two fusible links, providing constant power and the ignition switch with power. I forget how Gary has it drawn, but it can go to either the megafuse lug or the always hot stud if the fender mounted starter relay. (essentially, the battery+) Alright so let's talk about the ammeter/volt meter conversion. I hooked the dash back up tonight and the meter is not working as expected. Instead of the needle rising up somewhere above the D as expected, it drops down well below the D. I thought the way I grounded the yellow/light green wire from C610 might be the issue. I grounded it to the body with one of the bolts that holds the starter relay onto the body. So, I moved it straight to the battery and no difference. I've verified I put the correct meter in (lol). When I received the modified meter back, it was screwed into a little box with new nuts/washers. I didn't use those nuts/washers to mount it into the cluster. Instead, I used to factory nuts. I can't image that would be an issue. With the key on it's reading below the D as well. D should be 12v. I checked the battery and I do have 12v there. Running, I am still getting 14.6v at the battery. I'm going to try and get a reading at the volt meter but its pretty tight in there. I haven't emailed Rocketman yet but that's possible if I can't figure this out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 Alright so let's talk about the ammeter/volt meter conversion. I hooked the dash back up tonight and the meter is not working as expected. Instead of the needle rising up somewhere above the D as expected, it drops down well below the D. I thought the way I grounded the yellow/light green wire from C610 might be the issue. I grounded it to the body with one of the bolts that holds the starter relay onto the body. So, I moved it straight to the battery and no difference. I've verified I put the correct meter in (lol). When I received the modified meter back, it was screwed into a little box with new nuts/washers. I didn't use those nuts/washers to mount it into the cluster. Instead, I used to factory nuts. I can't image that would be an issue. With the key on it's reading below the D as well. D should be 12v. I checked the battery and I do have 12v there. Running, I am still getting 14.6v at the battery. I'm going to try and get a reading at the volt meter but its pretty tight in there. I haven't emailed Rocketman yet but that's possible if I can't figure this out. Did you test it before install? Sounds to me like you have it wired backwards. Try connecting your 'ground' to power, and your 'power' to ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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