dirtymac Posted January 29 Author Share Posted January 29 Jim - Please be safe! Will - Here's how Ford did it. You can see that the relay is pulled in via the stator and the W/Bk wire, and gets its power from the starter relay and a fuse link. I appreciate the schematic but I think some of this may be beyond my current comprehension. I can make out the W/BK stator wire going into the choke relay. I see the DB wire with 20A fuse from the starter relay to the choke relay. I see the choke relay connecting to the choke heater. It looks like the choke relay goes to ground on the black wire. It looks like this has a lot of other relay's downstream from this relay. I suspect that most of those, based on their names, are related to some of the stuff that has been removed from my truck. I have no EGR or Smog or solenoids on my carb. If half of that is right I'll be amazed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 I appreciate the schematic but I think some of this may be beyond my current comprehension. I can make out the W/BK stator wire going into the choke relay. I see the DB wire with 20A fuse from the starter relay to the choke relay. I see the choke relay connecting to the choke heater. It looks like the choke relay goes to ground on the black wire. It looks like this has a lot of other relay's downstream from this relay. I suspect that most of those, based on their names, are related to some of the stuff that has been removed from my truck. I have no EGR or Smog or solenoids on my carb. If half of that is right I'll be amazed. You just need to see that the stator (4 b/w) is pulling in the relay (the other side of the coil (57) is ground) And that 67 gy/w is actually the other side of 4 (stator) going to the choke heater. The stator pulls in the relay and the relay takes power from the main power (37 Y) through a fuselink, and feeds the choke. Look at only this.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 I appreciate the schematic but I think some of this may be beyond my current comprehension. I can make out the W/BK stator wire going into the choke relay. I see the DB wire with 20A fuse from the starter relay to the choke relay. I see the choke relay connecting to the choke heater. It looks like the choke relay goes to ground on the black wire. It looks like this has a lot of other relay's downstream from this relay. I suspect that most of those, based on their names, are related to some of the stuff that has been removed from my truck. I have no EGR or Smog or solenoids on my carb. If half of that is right I'll be amazed. Dark blue is the fuselink color code for 20Ga.💡 The 37 wire is yellow, like the rest of the main cab power wire.... ETA: 302 is an eyelet at the hot stud of the fender relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 I appreciate the schematic but I suspect that most of those, based on their names, are related to some of the stuff that has been removed from my truck. I have no EGR or Smog or solenoids on my carb. This is a schematic from a 1985/6 351HO. None of this stuff came on your '82 400 F-250. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtymac Posted January 29 Author Share Posted January 29 I appreciate the schematic but I suspect that most of those, based on their names, are related to some of the stuff that has been removed from my truck. I have no EGR or Smog or solenoids on my carb. This is a schematic from a 1985/6 351HO. None of this stuff came on your '82 400 F-250. doh! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 doh! I hope I'm not coming off the wrong way. I'm just trying to be helpful and answer your question and address your observations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtymac Posted January 29 Author Share Posted January 29 You just need to see that the stator (4 b/w) is pulling in the relay (the other side of the coil (57) is ground) And that 67 gy/w is actually the other side of 4 (stator) going to the choke heater. The stator pulls in the relay and the relay takes power from the main power (37 Y) through a fuselink, and feeds the choke. Look at only this.... Got it. I think I can tackle this at the same time as the 3G and I'll bundle everything up together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 Got it. I think I can tackle this at the same time as the 3G and I'll bundle everything up together. Will If you're going to go with a 3G alternator I'd suggest simply getting a 7V Motorcraft style choke cap and running the choke directly from the Stator (b/w #4) wire. Eliminate the complexity, confusion and possible failure of a relay. (like you already found disintegrated in your truck) The wiring is simpler and worked for decades in 10's of millions of Ford/Lincoln/Mercury vehicles. These choke caps can be found from other brands, not only OEM. Here's one made in the USA, with a tab on the edge, just like yours. https://www.carburetor-parts.com/motorcraft-thermostat-th1023 Edit: they call it a thermostat because it is a bimetallic clock spring, just like the classic domed Honeywell T87F 2873 mercury bulb thermostat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtymac Posted January 29 Author Share Posted January 29 Will If you're going to go with a 3G alternator I'd suggest simply getting a 7V Motorcraft style choke cap and running the choke directly from the Stator (b/w #4) wire. Eliminate the complexity, confusion and possible failure of a relay. (like you already found disintegrated in your truck) The wiring is simpler and worked for decades in 10's of millions of Ford/Lincoln/Mercury vehicles. These choke caps can be found from other brands, not only OEM. Here's one made in the USA, with a tab on the edge, just like yours. https://www.carburetor-parts.com/motorcraft-thermostat-th1023 Edit: they call it a thermostat because it is a bimetallic clock spring, just like the classic domed Honeywell T87F 2873 mercury bulb thermostat. That was my original plan, but when I reached out to Mike's Carburetor, they told me all of their chokes were 12v. Maybe I asked the wrong question? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 That was my original plan, but when I reached out to Mike's Carburetor, they told me all of their chokes were 12v. Maybe I asked the wrong question? I don't know who you talked to, but obviously they DO have ~7V choke heaters. You seem articulate and intelligent. I don't think you asked the wrong question.🤷♂️ More likely the person on the phone has no idea that a 'for Motorcraft' choke is meant to operate on unrectified 2/3 alternator output. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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