Vibration with hubs locked

[ArdWrknTrk]

Nope. Stays the same. But I haven't driven it over about 10 MPH in 4wd due to the vibration. Don't know if it goes away at speed, but I doubt it based on what I'm feeling.

I'm beginning to wonder if it might be in the transfer case.

Have you tried both high and low?

Is the front output slip or fixed yoke?

[nilknarf007]

I'm beginning to wonder if it might be in the transfer case.

Have you tried both high and low?

Is the front output slip or fixed yoke?

Can't get it to go into low, but I can't get under it enough to see if there is an obvious problem with that. It's a fixed yoke. I guess I need to find a lift so I can see under it.

[Nothing Special]

I'm beginning to wonder if it might be in the transfer case.

Have you tried both high and low?

Is the front output slip or fixed yoke?

Try dropping the front driveshaft and driving it with the hubs locked. If there's no vibration then youi know all the axle U-joints are good.

Another diagnostic to try could be to leave the hubs unlocked and put the transfer case in 4WD (with the driveshaft in). Not that I know what that would tell you, but it MIGHT be interesting.

But another thing you said would concern me. you said that it wasn't easy to turn the front driveshaft. It should be pretty easy. So I'd want to figure out where the drag was coming from. (If it's really cold out there could be a fair amount of drag from the ring gear in the gear lube. But otherwise nothing should be very hard to turn.)

[ArdWrknTrk]

Can't get it to go into low, but I can't get under it enough to see if there is an obvious problem with that. It's a fixed yoke. I guess I need to find a lift so I can see under it.

Your shift stick is probably rusted up to where it can't move sideways enough to get into the neutral gate.

I'm going to suggest PB Blaster or the corrosion buster of your choice and just working it back & forth until it starts to free up, then red 'n tacky grease or something that won't wash off

R&R to clean it on the bench can take a bunch of time and you have to be careful to reassemble it correctly.

Bob has some good points, but if you can't get under to lube up the linkage on the side of the gearbox I don't expect you can pull the driveshaft.

If you have access to a lift put it in gear while up in the air so you can get a better look at what's bent or binding

Please report back with what you find

[FuzzFace2]

Try dropping the front driveshaft and driving it with the hubs locked. If there's no vibration then youi know all the axle U-joints are good.

Another diagnostic to try could be to leave the hubs unlocked and put the transfer case in 4WD (with the driveshaft in). Not that I know what that would tell you, but it MIGHT be interesting.

But another thing you said would concern me. you said that it wasn't easy to turn the front driveshaft. It should be pretty easy. So I'd want to figure out where the drag was coming from. (If it's really cold out there could be a fair amount of drag from the ring gear in the gear lube. But otherwise nothing should be very hard to turn.)

I do like this if he can drop the front shaft as it would tell where the issue is.

Dave ----

[ArdWrknTrk]

Try dropping the front driveshaft and driving it with the hubs locked. If there's no vibration then youi know all the axle U-joints are good.

Another diagnostic to try could be to leave the hubs unlocked and put the transfer case in 4WD (with the driveshaft in). Not that I know what that would tell you, but it MIGHT be interesting.

But another thing you said would concern me. you said that it wasn't easy to turn the front driveshaft. It should be pretty easy. So I'd want to figure out where the drag was coming from. (If it's really cold out there could be a fair amount of drag from the ring gear in the gear lube. But otherwise nothing should be very hard to turn.)

I do like this if he can drop the front shaft as it would tell where the issue is.

Dave ----

I've been driving in front wheel drive for a few weeks now.

The one observation I have is that universal joints are not CV axles.

They're always going to bind and jerk the truck around especially in low speed turns.

And that is more acute depending on how much traction you actually have, given your tires tread and width.

[mat in tn]

I've been driving in front wheel drive for a few weeks now.

The one observation I have is that universal joints are not CV axles.

They're always going to bind and jerk the truck around especially in low speed turns.

And that is more acute depending on how much traction you actually have, given your tires tread and width.

this is why drive shafts need to be installed with both universals set at the same angles and be as true as possible in the most normal driving position. fully loaded or empty is the extreme of the range.

[ArdWrknTrk]

this is why drive shafts need to be installed with both universals set at the same angles and be as true as possible in the most normal driving position. fully loaded or empty is the extreme of the range.

When you turn the wheels the universal at the hub is necessarily going to be at a more acute angle than the fixed angle between the center case and the control arm or beam

[ArdWrknTrk]

When you turn the wheels the universal at the hub is necessarily going to be at a more acute angle than the fixed angle between the center case and the control arm or beam

Now here's a brilliant idea for Chad/little beefy.

You want a retrofit stuff to these trucks?

Come up with a CV axle retrofit. 💡

[Nothing Special]

Now here's a brilliant idea for Chad/little beefy.

You want a retrofit stuff to these trucks?

Come up with a CV axle retrofit. 💡

Years ago I met and 'wheeled with a guy who had a '70s vintage Toyota Land Cruiser. He was really excited because he had just installed a kit that swapped single Cardan joints in to replace the factory CV joints in his front axle!