dirtymac Posted January 25 Author Share Posted January 25 Thanks, Will. Those do look good. Maybe Painless is the one to talk to about a 3G harness. Painless does sell a 3G harness of sorts now. It sounds like they already have a somewhat compatible plug to the C610. Maybe they can source the correct version. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 Painless does sell a 3G harness of sorts now. It sounds like they already have a somewhat compatible plug to the C610. Maybe they can source the correct version. Do you have a link to their harness? I haven't seen it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtymac Posted January 25 Author Share Posted January 25 Do you have a link to their harness? I haven't seen it. Yes! Here is a link to the harness and the install manual: https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/30831 https://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/30831.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 Yes! Here is a link to the harness and the install manual: https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/30831 https://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/30831.pdf Thanks. I've read through that and they are taking our Quick & Dirty approach. (But they are wrong about the ammeter - as long as no additional load is added to the cab the ammeter will just read negative, not burn up.) So I wonder if they'd be interested in our Done Right approach? Let's get our approach nailed down and then maybe I'll contact them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 Thanks. I've read through that and they are taking our Quick & Dirty approach. (But they are wrong about the ammeter - as long as no additional load is added to the cab the ammeter will just read negative, not burn up.) So I wonder if they'd be interested in our Done Right approach? Let's get our approach nailed down and then maybe I'll contact them. Painless seems to think all power passes through the ammeter rather than the shunt. They also show the Y/W sense (A on the regulator) attaching AFTER the Megafuse. If that fuse blows the alternator is going to have a meltdown and possibly catch on fire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 Painless seems to think all power passes through the ammeter rather than the shunt. They also show the Y/W sense (A on the regulator) attaching AFTER the Megafuse. If that fuse blows the alternator is going to have a meltdown and possibly catch on fire. Well, maybe they wanted to retain that Bullnose peculiar feature. They definitely from my experience seem to be Chevy oriented (helped install one of their harnesses on a 1955 Dodge truck street rod and debug an installation on an LT1 swapped 1967 Mustang Shelby clone). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtymac Posted June 28 Author Share Posted June 28 It's a thick pink/red wire w/ green stripe in the upper left under the dash cover. Matt Wood* has pictures of it here on the Forum. https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Pre-Emptive-FIRE-tp58908.html We may be getting back on this little project soon and I have a few things to follow-up on. First question is about the resistance wire. I haven't found it yet but after looking through pictures and the EVTM I believe I know where it is. If the portion of the wires going into the dash are still in good shape, there should be no reason I can't just splice the new harness into them? Second, I am looking for a replacement coil and I'm considering the Standard Motor Products SMP-FD476 and the NAPA Echlin ECH IC21. I can get the NAPA part locally pretty easily. The SMP I'd have to order from Summit ($20) because O'Reilly currently wants a staggering $72. Has anyone used either and have anything to say about them? Third, I may not change the Duraspark II module immediately but it's on my list and I'd like to go ahead and get a spare. I'm considering the NAPA Echlin ECH TP40. Jim, I found a thread where you mentioned having the SMP-FD476 and the Echlin TP40. Are those still working for you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 29 Share Posted June 29 We may be getting back on this little project soon and I have a few things to follow-up on. First question is about the resistance wire. I haven't found it yet but after looking through pictures and the EVTM I believe I know where it is. If the portion of the wires going into the dash are still in good shape, there should be no reason I can't just splice the new harness into them? Second, I am looking for a replacement coil and I'm considering the Standard Motor Products SMP-FD476 and the NAPA Echlin ECH IC21. I can get the NAPA part locally pretty easily. The SMP I'd have to order from Summit ($20) because O'Reilly currently wants a staggering $72. Has anyone used either and have anything to say about them? Third, I may not change the Duraspark II module immediately but it's on my list and I'd like to go ahead and get a spare. I'm considering the NAPA Echlin ECH TP40. Jim, I found a thread where you mentioned having the SMP-FD476 and the Echlin TP40. Are those still working for you? Yes, both work fine for me. The thread you want, to locate the coil of resistance wire, is titled "preemptive fire" As I mentioned there, it would be really easy to find it with a basic infrared camera. Or, if you have an old neglected digital, you could just pull the IR filter... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 29 Share Posted June 29 Yes, both work fine for me. The thread you want, to locate the coil of resistance wire, is titled "preemptive fire" As I mentioned there, it would be really easy to find it with a basic infrared camera. Or, if you have an old neglected digital, you could just pull the IR filter... The resistance wire is under the dash cover above the instruments if I remember correctly. I should be able to confirm that tomorrow if you'd like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtymac Posted June 29 Author Share Posted June 29 The resistance wire is under the dash cover above the instruments if I remember correctly. I should be able to confirm that tomorrow if you'd like. I believe we have discussed the location before but I don't think that should matter. I don't think there is any reason to go into the dash. If the wires in the engine bay are still in good shape, I should be able to splice the new harness right into them out there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts