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Day 1 with my 1Honey


Clutch47

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this sounds as though you have an aod"e". there are no electronics inside an aod. no, the neutral safety is not internal electronics. if you do decide to use the aode then you will need to add an on-board trans controller too. adding an ecu to such a basic vehicle feels wrong to me but I don't judge. I have used hgms computer controller doing this and it works wonderfully. and syncs to my phone where I can tune it with an app. all plug and play install also. I prefer the aod simply because it is totally hydraulic and stays very simple. tv cable adjustment is the most critical.

It's not an AODE.

It's the original 1986 AOD from my Vic that has been built.

Check this out.

http://http://www.silverfoxtrans.com/valveBodies.html#vbsptr

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correct. aod. yet a well modified one. what other mods were done aside from the a+ servo and lockout option? any inside the valve body or just in the case like the picture?

I thought manual transmission was standard and any auto transmission was an option?

With that I would think 3 on the tree would be standard and any other manual like the T18 / NP435 would be options a long with any auto?

Your truck have power brakes or steering?

Think them would also be options?

My 81 F100 flare side had PS, T18, flare side and 2 tone paint from the factory no other options that I know of.

In my 4 year frame off rebuild of the truck I have added other factory options and some that Ford should have had like dual tanks on a flare side.

I will be following the work you will be doing on your project.

Dave ----

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correct. aod. yet a well modified one. what other mods were done aside from the a+ servo and lockout option? any inside the valve body or just in the case like the picture?

In the AOD rebuild we used Alto severe duty/police service drums and clutches, and replaced all the bearings we could.

It got a Pro torque converter 2200 stall and I can't remember what else. We didn't add an external tailshaft lube circuit because it just doesn't need it for my application.

I can tell you the thing holds the gears perfectly now. Dan at Silverfox set the valve body up for my car's weight and torque numbers specifically. He builds each one.

The transmission options offered at the time seem appropriate to me but I gotta say if it would been built with the 3 on the tree I'd be leaving it. Converting it has crossed my mind, as well as adding the dual tanks or a larger one. We shall see...

I'll be looking into everyone's threads for advice and guidance.

First order of business is sorting out the brakes. The pedal is rock hard but they work.

Then, hubcaps.

Then a more appealing dash pad. This one is toast.

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The transmission options offered at the time seem appropriate to me but I gotta say if it would been built with the 3 on the tree I'd be leaving it. Converting it has crossed my mind, as well as adding the dual tanks or a larger one. We shall see...

I'll be looking into everyone's threads for advice and guidance.

First order of business is sorting out the brakes. The pedal is rock hard but they work.

Then, hubcaps.

Then a more appealing dash pad. This one is toast.

Most 3 on the tree trucks have been swapped to aftermarket floor shifter as you cant get parts for it and most are just plan wore out.

Depending what you plan on using the truck for there are other transmission options some have over drive.

As for dual tanks a lot has to do with the motor / fuel system the truck has.

The 300 six system is stupid simple, 3 port valve, but the way the factory has the wiring for the switch / gauge is a whole different harness. Yes you can add to the non-dual factory harness just need to open it up a little.

As for a larger tank that depends on where the tank is you have now.

Only option I know of is a 38 gallon rear tank, replaces the 19 gallon, but you lose the spare tire or it hangs down pretty low. No options for the front / side tanks that I know of.

Brakes are nice to have if you want to stop :nabble_smiley_evil:

Power or non-power? I have a project car that uses a pivot between the firewall and booster that first rusted and would not move, our truck dont have this but I can see the pedal pivot under the dash on pivot making the pedal hard.

This same project car got brake fluid and water in the booster and ever since the pedal got hard like something rusted inside? I need to send it out for a rebuild as you cant get it thru local parts stores.

As you know the calipers & wheel cly. could be rusted. My trucks brakes were hardly able to be call brakes when I first got it. I had to replace everything.

I also added power brakes, booster / master and pedals from my parts truck, everything else (caliper cups & wheel cly) was the same size between them.

On the dash pad they do make replacements but they are big $$$.

Unless doing a 100 point trailer queen a dash topper looks and works great.

I have one on my truck and unless you really look you cant tell it is just a topper.

Dave ----

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The transmission options offered at the time seem appropriate to me but I gotta say if it would been built with the 3 on the tree I'd be leaving it. Converting it has crossed my mind, as well as adding the dual tanks or a larger one. We shall see...

I'll be looking into everyone's threads for advice and guidance.

First order of business is sorting out the brakes. The pedal is rock hard but they work.

Then, hubcaps.

Then a more appealing dash pad. This one is toast.

Most 3 on the tree trucks have been swapped to aftermarket floor shifter as you cant get parts for it and most are just plan wore out.

Depending what you plan on using the truck for there are other transmission options some have over drive.

As for dual tanks a lot has to do with the motor / fuel system the truck has.

The 300 six system is stupid simple, 3 port valve, but the way the factory has the wiring for the switch / gauge is a whole different harness. Yes you can add to the non-dual factory harness just need to open it up a little.

As for a larger tank that depends on where the tank is you have now.

Only option I know of is a 38 gallon rear tank, replaces the 19 gallon, but you lose the spare tire or it hangs down pretty low. No options for the front / side tanks that I know of.

Brakes are nice to have if you want to stop :nabble_smiley_evil:

Power or non-power? I have a project car that uses a pivot between the firewall and booster that first rusted and would not move, our truck dont have this but I can see the pedal pivot under the dash on pivot making the pedal hard.

This same project car got brake fluid and water in the booster and ever since the pedal got hard like something rusted inside? I need to send it out for a rebuild as you cant get it thru local parts stores.

As you know the calipers & wheel cly. could be rusted. My trucks brakes were hardly able to be call brakes when I first got it. I had to replace everything.

I also added power brakes, booster / master and pedals from my parts truck, everything else (caliper cups & wheel cly) was the same size between them.

On the dash pad they do make replacements but they are big $$$.

Unless doing a 100 point trailer queen a dash topper looks and works great.

I have one on my truck and unless you really look you cant tell it is just a topper.

Dave ----

Appreciated.

I'm thinking because the dash speaker perforated part has magically vanished but the rest appears be.. eh.. maybe I'll put a 6x9 cover over the hole for now and buy a dash mat. I've got one in my other truck and I like it.

We shall see if this becomes a restored truck or gets modified a little. My intention originally was to buy a decent driver to accommodate me and my dog on our back road adventures, so....

I found a complete Clifford 6=8 setup and I've never touched Weber carbs on anything other than Harleys years ago, let alone dual Webers.

Can anyone with personal experience fill me in on what is better for all around starting and easy power.. the dual Webers or a Holley 390? I've got one and they work pretty darn well...

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I'm thinking because the dash speaker perforated part has magically vanished but the rest appears be.. eh.. maybe I'll put a 6x9 cover over the hole for now and buy a dash mat. I've got one in my other truck and I like it.

We have a member here (Ron/Reamer) who sells a nice dash speaker 3D printed patch.

A member installed it and it looks very good.

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