Clutch pedal spring

[Frogger2662]

I have a 84 F150 that was converted from a 4 speed manual transmission to an AOD. I am converting back to a manual.

It still has the manual pedal box. Can I reinstall the cluch pedal spring without pulling the whole pedal assembly out of the box? I still have all of the old parts.

[JimJam300]

It's possible. Just watch out because with the spring installed you can smack yourself with the pedal pretty hard when the clutch rod is not attached to the equalizer.

https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/clutches-and-linkage.html

Clutch Linkage > Mechanical > Adjustments and R&R > "Removal and Installation"

[Frogger2662]

It's possible. Just watch out because with the spring installed you can smack yourself with the pedal pretty hard when the clutch rod is not attached to the equalizer.

https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/clutches-and-linkage.html

Clutch Linkage > Mechanical > Adjustments and R&R > "Removal and Installation"

What piece are you calling the equalizer?

[ArdWrknTrk]

What piece are you calling the equalizer?

I think he is talking about the cross shaft you would find in a mechanical clutch (like his '82) #7528

If you have the pedals out it is a very good time to check the pin that clips to the eye of the master cylinder pushrod for wear on the firewall side. (7A554)

If there's a groove worn there you want to fix that before you destroy the fingered plastic bush that clips them together.

Weld... or maybe even JB Weld would work.

If there's slop in the linkage you'll find it difficult to disengage the clutch.

You can get those bushings in the Dorman HELP section, sold as part of an assortment of windshield wiper bushings #49447

[Frogger2662]

I think he is talking about the cross shaft you would find in a mechanical clutch (like his '82) #7528

If you have the pedals out it is a very good time to check the pin that clips to the eye of the master cylinder pushrod for wear on the firewall side. (7A554)

If there's a groove worn there you want to fix that before you destroy the fingered plastic bush that clips them together.

Weld... or maybe even JB Weld would work.

If there's slop in the linkage you'll find it difficult to disengage the clutch.

You can get those bushings in the Dorman HELP section, sold as part of an assortment of windshield wiper bushings #49447

Thanks, that helps a lot.

With the clutch pedal off will the shaft slide toward the passenger side so I can inspect and replace bushing?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks, that helps a lot.

With the clutch pedal off will the shaft slide toward the passenger side so I can inspect and replace bushing?

Hmmm. I've never really thought of that.

Edit: you don't need to move the shaft to check. The master cylinder pushrod has a bunch of 360° freedom, so it can be slipped off or over that pin.

I always pulled the pedal box as an assembly, but if you have only taken the nut off the left side and removed the pedal, the 7A554 arm/pin should still be clipped in to the master cylinder pushrod?

... I'm not sure what all was done to install the automatic in the first place, except you've obviously swapped the column.

Is the clutch pedal still attached and flopping around without a spring?

Is the master cylinder still there covering the hole in the firewall?

You just want to check for play between the master cylinder pushrod and the pin you can see as part of the cranked arm (7A554) above.

If it's good leave it until there's an issue.

If it's sloppy you can feel the groove with your finger by moving the pushrod to the side.

Taking off any 40 year old piece of plastic is likely to destroy it. That ~$7 assortment is less than the dealer would get for one bush (if they're still available)

Farm/construction trucks see a lot of muddy, gritty boots and once that plastic wears through the metal grinds a groove.

This needs to get fixed before replacing the bushing, but yours may not be bad if it hasn't seen hard use or lived much of it's life as an automatic.

 

[Frogger2662]

Hmmm. I've never really thought of that.

Edit: you don't need to move the shaft to check. The master cylinder pushrod has a bunch of 360° freedom, so it can be slipped off or over that pin.

I always pulled the pedal box as an assembly, but if you have only taken the nut off the left side and removed the pedal, the 7A554 arm/pin should still be clipped in to the master cylinder pushrod?

... I'm not sure what all was done to install the automatic in the first place, except you've obviously swapped the column.

Is the clutch pedal still attached and flopping around without a spring?

Is the master cylinder still there covering the hole in the firewall?

You just want to check for play between the master cylinder pushrod and the pin you can see as part of the cranked arm (7A554) above.

If it's good leave it until there's an issue.

If it's sloppy you can feel the groove with your finger by moving the pushrod to the side.

Taking off any 40 year old piece of plastic is likely to destroy it. That ~$7 assortment is less than the dealer would get for one bush (if they're still available)

Farm/construction trucks see a lot of muddy, gritty boots and once that plastic wears through the metal grinds a groove.

This needs to get fixed before replacing the bushing, but yours may not be bad if it hasn't seen hard use or lived much of it's life as an automatic.

The clutch pedal is off. Looks like the previous owner put some washers on as spacers and reinstalled the nut. The clutch master cylinder is still there without the rod in it. It still has the original column installed. He used a automatic floor shifter. I still need to source a transmission. The original pedal and spring was under the seat.

[ArdWrknTrk]

The clutch pedal is off. Looks like the previous owner put some washers on as spacers and reinstalled the nut. The clutch master cylinder is still there without the rod in it. It still has the original column installed. He used a automatic floor shifter. I still need to source a transmission. The original pedal and spring was under the seat.

Just use your fingernail or an inspection mirror to see if the pin is good.

When there's a bad groove the first push of the pedal will result in a crunch noise and a destroyed plastic bush.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Just use your fingernail or an inspection mirror to see if the pin is good.

When there's a bad groove the first push of the pedal will result in a crunch noise and a destroyed plastic bush.

I was just thinking about this.

If the clutch pedal and master cylinder pusheod are already removed there shouldn't be anything keeping you from swinging the shaft all the way around so you can see the back of the pin.

It's way up under the dash in an awkward position to begin with and won't be any easier pointing up, but if you're a contortionist....

[Frogger2662]

I was just thinking about this.

If the clutch pedal and master cylinder pusheod are already removed there shouldn't be anything keeping you from swinging the shaft all the way around so you can see the back of the pin.

It's way up under the dash in an awkward position to begin with and won't be any easier pointing up, but if you're a contortionist....

I am going to do this while I have the seat and carpet out. Gonna put new carpet in so it will be easier to get under the dash.