FuzzFace2 Posted December 26, 2018 Author Share Posted December 26, 2018 I like a round lights as that's what we had back in the day. But, I can see rectangular lights to match the headlights and turn signals. And that mount is interesting. I'm curious to see how it fits. That could be a nice mount if I wanted lights above or maybe below the bumper. I guess I could use rectangular lights in the bumper if not higher than 3". I know LMC makes a bumper for the 73-79 trucks with round and a rectangular that has a fog & driving light in it. I do not know the size of the round light but the rectangular would work where I want them in the bumper. Need to see if they would be to wide to look right in the 80-86 bumper. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted December 26, 2018 Share Posted December 26, 2018 That could be a nice mount if I wanted lights above or maybe below the bumper. I guess I could use rectangular lights in the bumper if not higher than 3". I know LMC makes a bumper for the 73-79 trucks with round and a rectangular that has a fog & driving light in it. I do not know the size of the round light but the rectangular would work where I want them in the bumper. Need to see if they would be to wide to look right in the 80-86 bumper. Dave ---- Well, my son got me the mounting bar, round lights and a wiring harness for Christmas. I will let you know and get some pictures when I get a chance to at least mock it up. Might be awhile, suddenly lots going on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted December 26, 2018 Share Posted December 26, 2018 Work & flood lights do not put the light down the road, more on the sides, so you are always over driving the work / flood lights.I've driven at night on a hilly, curvy road without the headlights, and those 5-element LEDs under my mirrors worked fine. There was a SLIGHT shadow straight ahead, but I had no trouble seeing, even as fast as I drive. If you don't like their elliptical outline, &/or you want to surface-mount them on a bumper face, check out these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NPQV06O They're also available on eBay - probably MUCH cheaper. And those are 6-element. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted December 26, 2018 Author Share Posted December 26, 2018 Well, my son got me the mounting bar, round lights and a wiring harness for Christmas. I will let you know and get some pictures when I get a chance to at least mock it up. Might be awhile, suddenly lots going on. Isn't it the way, you get something cool and you then don't have time to play with it. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted December 26, 2018 Author Share Posted December 26, 2018 Work & flood lights do not put the light down the road, more on the sides, so you are always over driving the work / flood lights.I've driven at night on a hilly, curvy road without the headlights, and those 5-element LEDs under my mirrors worked fine. There was a SLIGHT shadow straight ahead, but I had no trouble seeing, even as fast as I drive. If you don't like their elliptical outline, &/or you want to surface-mount them on a bumper face, check out these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NPQV06O They're also available on eBay - probably MUCH cheaper. And those are 6-element. I don't want the add on lights look like they were added like hanging off the mirrors or face mounted to the bumper. A square hole will be made in the bumper, a tab made to bolt the lights to and the lights mounted from behind shining out the holes. The sizes look about right to fit where I want them but they are flood / work lights. I want a light that shines down the road farther. I have Grote LED flood / work lights on my cement trailer and the one down the side is nice to see the valves but the one off the back up high gets washed out not far behind the trailer. Guess it is better than nothing but would not cut it for driving at any speed. The LP gas trailers use 6" round lights and they have a great pattern and a lot of light that is helpful when backing into some of the dark drops we have and down the side for hook up when pumping off load. I just have to do a little more looking till I find what I am looking for. Just think of me as one of them TV car show guys "I want it my way" LOL Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted December 30, 2018 Author Share Posted December 30, 2018 Work & flood lights do not put the light down the road, more on the sides, so you are always over driving the work / flood lights.I've driven at night on a hilly, curvy road without the headlights, and those 5-element LEDs under my mirrors worked fine. There was a SLIGHT shadow straight ahead, but I had no trouble seeing, even as fast as I drive. If you don't like their elliptical outline, &/or you want to surface-mount them on a bumper face, check out these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NPQV06O They're also available on eBay - probably MUCH cheaper. And those are 6-element. I don't want the add on lights look like they were added like hanging off the mirrors or face mounted to the bumper. A square hole will be made in the bumper, a tab made to bolt the lights to and the lights mounted from behind shining out the holes. The sizes look about right to fit where I want them but they are flood / work lights. I want a light that shines down the road farther. I have Grote LED flood / work lights on my cement trailer and the one down the side is nice to see the valves but the one off the back up high gets washed out not far behind the trailer. Guess it is better than nothing but would not cut it for driving at any speed. The LP gas trailers use 6" round lights and they have a great pattern and a lot of light that is helpful when backing into some of the dark drops we have and down the side for hook up when pumping off load. I just have to do a little more looking till I find what I am looking for. Just think of me as one of them TV car show guys "I want it my way" LOL Dave ---- Did a little tinkering in the garage to day. I wanted to find the AC hoses as I have not seen them since I pulled the parts truck apart back in Dec of 2015. Found them all then the fun was to figure out how they went till I looked at the York compressor and saw the lines come in on the side. In looking for the hoses I found the radiator over flow rubber hose but was a little short to fit right. So I found some 5/16" metal brake line, bent it to fit over the radiator shroud using the rubber hose at either end. I wanted to run the metal line longer but it had some rust on the outside and when bending is cracked so it was cut short. I also looked over the over flow tanks I have. the one mounted is clean but the top is was loose and warped. The other was dirty inside and had paint all over it. Went with the clean one, used a heat gun and got the top straight and fits somewhat tight. May use a clear sealer to make sure the washer fluid & coolant don't mix. I also tried to straighten one of the front bumpers using a bottle jack and the weight of the truck ....... did not work so going to have to come up with another plan. May try taking it to work and see if I can use the press as I think it is outside. Then again I may just use them as practice pieces for the lights I want to add and then get a painted one for $100 to cut for the lights to use? No I will not paint it got another plan for chrome. I am running out of things to tinker with so I don't have to do the rest of the body work. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 I wanted to run the metal line longer but it had some rust on the outside and when bending is cracked so it was cut short.Consider using hard nylon tubing. It's corrosion/impact/dry-rot proof, and affordable. With a heat gun, it can be formed semipermanently. https://supermotors.net/getfile/927685/thumbnail/fueltubing.jpgThe other was dirty inside and had paint all over it.If you can make it pool on the paint & sit for a few minutes, cheap brake parts cleaner will usually remove spray paint. Water, Dawn dish soap, & PurplePower (or SimpleGreen) will usually clean the inside of a tank just by sloshing it vigorously for a few minutes. A little sand will help, too, but it may take some extra rinsing to get it out.I also tried to straighten one of the front bumpers using a bottle jack and the weight of the truck ....... did not work so going to have to come up with another plan.I've had success with a big bench vise, but it has to be SOLIDLY-mounted to a SOLID bench. Otherwise, I try to straighten them on the truck: https://supermotors.net/getfile/886389/thumbnail/rear1.jpg I straightened these on the ground, just using lumber (as padding) and prybars/sledgehammers: https://supermotors.net/getfile/921745/thumbnail/bumperr93xlt.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/853045/thumbnail/46hoisted.jpg My technique is to try to apply the same force that bent the bumper, at the same location in the opposite direction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted December 30, 2018 Author Share Posted December 30, 2018 I wanted to run the metal line longer but it had some rust on the outside and when bending is cracked so it was cut short.Consider using hard nylon tubing. It's corrosion/impact/dry-rot proof, and affordable. With a heat gun, it can be formed semipermanently. https://supermotors.net/getfile/927685/thumbnail/fueltubing.jpgThe other was dirty inside and had paint all over it.If you can make it pool on the paint & sit for a few minutes, cheap brake parts cleaner will usually remove spray paint. Water, Dawn dish soap, & PurplePower (or SimpleGreen) will usually clean the inside of a tank just by sloshing it vigorously for a few minutes. A little sand will help, too, but it may take some extra rinsing to get it out.I also tried to straighten one of the front bumpers using a bottle jack and the weight of the truck ....... did not work so going to have to come up with another plan.I've had success with a big bench vise, but it has to be SOLIDLY-mounted to a SOLID bench. Otherwise, I try to straighten them on the truck: https://supermotors.net/getfile/886389/thumbnail/rear1.jpg I straightened these on the ground, just using lumber (as padding) and prybars/sledgehammers: https://supermotors.net/getfile/921745/thumbnail/bumperr93xlt.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/853045/thumbnail/46hoisted.jpg My technique is to try to apply the same force that bent the bumper, at the same location in the opposite direction. Never gave a thought of the nylon tubing, might be able to get some from work as it is used for air lines on the 18 wheelers I drive. Have to check the wrecks the owner buys for parts as I am sure they will not be using the nylon. The paint was not that bad on the over flow tank it was the dirt inside I did not want to deal with when I had a clean one on the truck with a loose lid. I will give it try on cleaning it so I have a spare if I need one. Being a body man I know how to get the bumper straight and the dent out just did not have big enough tools to do the job. Not having an I beam to use like you hurts that is why I was trying to use the trucks weight to push it straight with shims on the ends to push it pass the straight point and have it bounce back. It worked good for jacking the truck up but that's it LOL The bend is just off the side of the front plate mount so has a lot of different bends, this adds to how hard it is to bend back straight. I just don't know if it is worth the time to get straight for what I want to do with it. I am not totally happy with the other bumper I straighten so why I am thinking new bumper. Thanks Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted January 1, 2019 Author Share Posted January 1, 2019 Yesterday I got up early to work on the truck and never made it out to the garage but I looked up parts for the AC. I want to run the Sanden FS6 compressor used on the 83 up trucks. I found you can get hoses to fit the compressor and can get the compressor but ...... Always a but ..... the compressor does not come with hose manifolds. I spent a few hours with the parts CD and found the part numbers suction E1AZ 19E583-A discharge E1AZ 19E582-A Think they come with the bolts & gaskets. I got up early to work on the truck and this time made it out to the garage. I finished stripping the paint & rust off the tail gate using a angle die grinder and a bunch of Roloc discs. Once clean I did a little hammer & dolly work where I could. Some of the gate is 2 panels thick or the rolled top & bottom so I left the dents in them as they are not that bad. I then treated the gate to a spraying of Oxy-gone acid and a green sanding pad to work it in. Used a sponge and water to wipe the acid off and shop air to dry as it was flash rusting. Hit the gate and the rear bed roll pan, body work was done a long time ago, with a degreaser before priming as I did not want the gate to rust. I also hit the gate hinges with sand paper and a shot of primer. To get the gate out of the way I mounted it back on the truck. This was easy by myself, the gate was hanging from the rafters with 2 straps so I slid 1 end of the gate on a hinge then got the other side up in place and bolted that hinge into place. I think this way may also work for mounting the hood by myself when the time comes. Before I installed the tail gate I pulled the chains and started soaking them in Evap-O-Rust. Once I am happy with them I think they will need a coat of silver paint to look good. My brother when here for Christmas said to use bike tire tube to cover the chain to keep it from hurting the bed body so will have to pick up a tube one day. The last thing I did was removed the brackets off the rear bumper as I need to weld up some holes the PO's put in to mount the plate in a few different places and they had a heavy channel beam to reinforce for a bumper hitch the truck had. I mounted the brackets to the truck so I would not loose them but they will need to be pulled, cleaned and painted before a bumper can be installed. Just have the hood that I hope has the last coat of filler on it, a small dent in a fender to fix and the 2 rear fenders to finish prepping for primer and I think it should be ready for paint! Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted January 1, 2019 Share Posted January 1, 2019 ...I think they will need a coat of silver paint to look good.Have you considered galvanizing spray instead of paint? I've used Rustoleum's cold spray on a few things, but it seems to rub off (not necessarily THROUGH to the metal below) very easily. When I was an industrial electrician's apprentice, we used a lot of hot galvanizing spray immediately after torching or welding, but it's not "cosmetically-appealing". I'm not sure anything you can apply at home will stand up to the abrasion that those chains endure....bike tire tube to cover the chain...That makes the chains' color seem moot. Have you considered the later plastic-covered cables? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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