ArdWrknTrk Posted December 5, 2019 Share Posted December 5, 2019 Cory - Jim is right. Effectively the only difference between ported and manifold vacuum is that you don't have vacuum at idle. Other than that there's essentially no difference. The reason I like ported vacuum is that it gives a stable idle. This is especially needed with an automatic. With manifold vacuum when you start the engine and let it idle in neutral there is high vacuum so a lot of advance, which creates a high RPM. Then you drop it in gear and the RPM drops, which drops the vacuum, which drops the advance, which reduces the RPM, which drops the vacuum, which.... But with your truck there's no big reason to go with ported over manifold vacuum since you have the manual transmission. I was talking to Scott at Parkland last night. He has my new distributor all dialed in and will be shipping it out today. I can't wait to get it. I asked him my vacuum questions, and he said to absolutely use ported vacuum, and absolutely no to any kind of delay or restriction on the vacuum advance. Depending on the weather, I may not have much opportunity to test this thing other than running it in my garage. Stupid winter! Well of course you wouldn't need any of Ford's emissions workarounds. Scott knows exactly what he's doing and has the machine to tune them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted December 8, 2019 Author Share Posted December 8, 2019 Well of course you wouldn't need any of Ford's emissions workarounds. Scott knows exactly what he's doing and has the machine to tune them. I got to say that steering box is heavy! Even heavier doing it on your back, using 1 hand to hold it in place and the other to get bolts started. I went with the Blue Top box if anyone wants to know. Pulled the box, flushed the pump, install box and bleed the air out of the system. Just bleeding the system the box felt tighter. The road test went great, cant believe how much a box could change how something steers. There is still a hint of darting but I can live with it as it is no where near what it was and could go away once the kingpins loosen up some. Now to run the rear tank dry so I can see what is up with the new sender reading empty! Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 9, 2019 Share Posted December 9, 2019 I got to say that steering box is heavy! Even heavier doing it on your back, using 1 hand to hold it in place and the other to get bolts started. I went with the Blue Top box if anyone wants to know. Pulled the box, flushed the pump, install box and bleed the air out of the system. Just bleeding the system the box felt tighter. The road test went great, cant believe how much a box could change how something steers. There is still a hint of darting but I can live with it as it is no where near what it was and could go away once the kingpins loosen up some. Now to run the rear tank dry so I can see what is up with the new sender reading empty! Dave ---- Yes, the box is HEAVY! And when you have a nicely painted frame and box and are not wanting to bang one into the other it makes it even harder to get in place. But glad you got it in, and certainly glad it made a huge difference. I do hope things loosen up a bit with driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted December 9, 2019 Author Share Posted December 9, 2019 Yes, the box is HEAVY! And when you have a nicely painted frame and box and are not wanting to bang one into the other it makes it even harder to get in place. But glad you got it in, and certainly glad it made a huge difference. I do hope things loosen up a bit with driving. I am trying to get it to loosen up took it to work today even calling for showers. The intermittent wipers worked great. I am looking out for a ZF5 for the truck. A rebuild kit is $130 for the T18 and still no overdrive so thinking putting that money to the ZF5 is the way to go. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted December 15, 2019 Author Share Posted December 15, 2019 I am trying to get it to loosen up took it to work today even calling for showers. The intermittent wipers worked great. I am looking out for a ZF5 for the truck. A rebuild kit is $130 for the T18 and still no overdrive so thinking putting that money to the ZF5 is the way to go. Dave ---- I have driven the truck to work all week, mileage said 125 but think that may be low? Truck has run great, steering is getting better, darting left & right, but I could also be getting use to it. Some mornings we had misting and the intermittent wipers worked great. Friday coming home and Saturday going back in to work it was raining pretty good. I am happy I have not installed a rug yet. The windshield is still leaking even after I added more sealer so need to look deeper into that. But when I got in Saturday morning I saw other areas that were wet. Don't know if the firewall seams did not get sealed, did not leak when I washed the truck 2 weeks ago? 1 was behind the drivers kick panel so the "duck bill" may not be letting water out? And yes both sides are clean as that was done when I first started the rebuild. I also need to replace the HVAC vacuum check valve because when you pull away from a light you can hear the doors moving. The only other thing is after driving for a bit when you come to a light and stop you can feel the brakes stay locked. I think it may be the front but not sure as it does not do if when the truck is cold and if it rolls back just a little or the pedal up a short time it is ok. I am going to try and shorten the rod between booster & master to see if that does anything. And for the ones thinking it could be a rubber hose all 3 have been replaced, new booster & master also but I did play with that rod at some point. So in the 125 miles I am getting 12.49 MPG, first fill up when taking mileage. That is 65-75 on the high way going to work (4 miles going to/from high way) and the home trip on back roads with stop lights at 45 mph. I was hoping for better but the truck just got on the road so guess not bad for a start? Oh got my first thumbs up yesterday at a light Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 15, 2019 Share Posted December 15, 2019 I have driven the truck to work all week, mileage said 125 but think that may be low? Truck has run great, steering is getting better, darting left & right, but I could also be getting use to it. Some mornings we had misting and the intermittent wipers worked great. Friday coming home and Saturday going back in to work it was raining pretty good. I am happy I have not installed a rug yet. The windshield is still leaking even after I added more sealer so need to look deeper into that. But when I got in Saturday morning I saw other areas that were wet. Don't know if the firewall seams did not get sealed, did not leak when I washed the truck 2 weeks ago? 1 was behind the drivers kick panel so the "duck bill" may not be letting water out? And yes both sides are clean as that was done when I first started the rebuild. I also need to replace the HVAC vacuum check valve because when you pull away from a light you can hear the doors moving. The only other thing is after driving for a bit when you come to a light and stop you can feel the brakes stay locked. I think it may be the front but not sure as it does not do if when the truck is cold and if it rolls back just a little or the pedal up a short time it is ok. I am going to try and shorten the rod between booster & master to see if that does anything. And for the ones thinking it could be a rubber hose all 3 have been replaced, new booster & master also but I did play with that rod at some point. So in the 125 miles I am getting 12.49 MPG, first fill up when taking mileage. That is 65-75 on the high way going to work (4 miles going to/from high way) and the home trip on back roads with stop lights at 45 mph. I was hoping for better but the truck just got on the road so guess not bad for a start? Oh got my first thumbs up yesterday at a light Dave ---- I agree the rod is probably too long. As the brakes warm up they expand and drag, getting warmer and larger. On the mileage, maybe the choke isn’t coming off quickly enough? That will kill mileage on short trips. As for the duck bill, I wouldn’t think water would come in there. But maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 15, 2019 Share Posted December 15, 2019 I have driven the truck to work all week, mileage said 125 but think that may be low? Truck has run great, steering is getting better, darting left & right, but I could also be getting use to it. Some mornings we had misting and the intermittent wipers worked great. Friday coming home and Saturday going back in to work it was raining pretty good. I am happy I have not installed a rug yet. The windshield is still leaking even after I added more sealer so need to look deeper into that. But when I got in Saturday morning I saw other areas that were wet. Don't know if the firewall seams did not get sealed, did not leak when I washed the truck 2 weeks ago? 1 was behind the drivers kick panel so the "duck bill" may not be letting water out? And yes both sides are clean as that was done when I first started the rebuild. I also need to replace the HVAC vacuum check valve because when you pull away from a light you can hear the doors moving. The only other thing is after driving for a bit when you come to a light and stop you can feel the brakes stay locked. I think it may be the front but not sure as it does not do if when the truck is cold and if it rolls back just a little or the pedal up a short time it is ok. I am going to try and shorten the rod between booster & master to see if that does anything. And for the ones thinking it could be a rubber hose all 3 have been replaced, new booster & master also but I did play with that rod at some point. So in the 125 miles I am getting 12.49 MPG, first fill up when taking mileage. That is 65-75 on the high way going to work (4 miles going to/from high way) and the home trip on back roads with stop lights at 45 mph. I was hoping for better but the truck just got on the road so guess not bad for a start? Oh got my first thumbs up yesterday at a light Dave ---- You've got a lot of 👍 right here. 😉 Gary, I don't have any duck bills in my truck and it seems ok. If the windshield is still leaking it can go right across the 'shelf' and end up in the corners. As for the mileage, you really have to consider how much energy is being turned into heat by the brakes dragging. Another big advantage of electric, is most stopping is recoverd, back to the battery instead of being lost as heat to the friction pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted December 16, 2019 Author Share Posted December 16, 2019 You've got a lot of 👍 right here. 😉 Gary, I don't have any duck bills in my truck and it seems ok. If the windshield is still leaking it can go right across the 'shelf' and end up in the corners. As for the mileage, you really have to consider how much energy is being turned into heat by the brakes dragging. Another big advantage of electric, is most stopping is recoverd, back to the battery instead of being lost as heat to the friction pads. Yea I have to make the rod a little shorter to see if that will fix the sticking. They don't seam to be dragging as I don't feel, see smoke or smell them when moving. It is the last 3 or 4 feet to the stop and you let off the pedal and the front just dips a little but as soon as the truck might roll backwards they release. I also cant get them to do it if I just move it a few feet and try again, it is strange? On the choke I will have to check but I know once the motor is running I can drive it with no problem with an OAT of 34*f to 40*f. It also is not short drives, 30 to 35 miles each way to work a good 30 min drive on the high way at 1am. I do have more tuning to do as all I have done so far is gas and go LOL Will see if I can check it over the holidays. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 16, 2019 Share Posted December 16, 2019 Yea I have to make the rod a little shorter to see if that will fix the sticking. They don't seam to be dragging as I don't feel, see smoke or smell them when moving. It is the last 3 or 4 feet to the stop and you let off the pedal and the front just dips a little but as soon as the truck might roll backwards they release. I also cant get them to do it if I just move it a few feet and try again, it is strange? On the choke I will have to check but I know once the motor is running I can drive it with no problem with an OAT of 34*f to 40*f. It also is not short drives, 30 to 35 miles each way to work a good 30 min drive on the high way at 1am. I do have more tuning to do as all I have done so far is gas and go LOL Will see if I can check it over the holidays. Dave ---- We didn’t feel the brakes on WelderScott’s truck dragging initially, but they apparently were as they eventually locked up. However, it might have been the rears, which self-energize. So if they drag any they’ll heat up, expand, drag more, and finally lock up. But rolling back would tend to unlock them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 16, 2019 Share Posted December 16, 2019 We didn’t feel the brakes on WelderScott’s truck dragging initially, but they apparently were as they eventually locked up. However, it might have been the rears, which self-energize. So if they drag any they’ll heat up, expand, drag more, and finally lock up. But rolling back would tend to unlock them Not if you have a 460 and a heavy foot! My driving to work with the parking brake on (and subsequent need to adjust) attests to that. And I have the big 12x3 1/2 shoes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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