81 F100 flare side custom with 300 six & T18

[FuzzFace2]

Good sleuthing Cory, and I appreciate the side by side comparison.

Gary's link to the FTE thread kind of shows the how and why but you (and the I-6 fan base here) certainly have a better handle than I even remember having.

Maybe Dave's dizzy already has adjustable advance.

Maybe someone has one to offer up in the marketpace/FTAGH.

Maybe another answer is to put a hard stop to the amount of advance the vacuum canister can pull in.

Thanks Cory & Jim,

In day light in a few hours I will see if my vacuum unit is adjustable or not.

I have also thought of a lint or hard stop but don't know just how this could be done till I get inside the distributor but with some luck I won't have to.

Dave ----

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks Cory & Jim,

In day light in a few hours I will see if my vacuum unit is adjustable or not.

I have also thought of a lint or hard stop but don't know just how this could be done till I get inside the distributor but with some luck I won't have to.

Dave ----

I imagine you could use the same twist tie trick one would use to see carb secondary opening to determine how far the arm pulls in at 20"Hg, or whatever manifold vacuum is in your truck.

Observe how much advance that equates to with a timing light.

Then drill the arm for a roll pin that won't fit into the housing.

Interesting that the 300 advance unit has those gussets cast in to the longer housing.

IIRC, the Crane style advance just puts more preload on the spring inside, eventually so much that it is not overcome by manifold vacuum.

[FuzzFace2]

I imagine you could use the same twist tie trick one would use to see carb secondary opening to determine how far the arm pulls in at 20"Hg, or whatever manifold vacuum is in your truck.

Observe how much advance that equates to with a timing light.

Then drill the arm for a roll pin that won't fit into the housing.

Interesting that the 300 advance unit has those gussets cast in to the longer housing.

IIRC, the Crane style advance just puts more preload on the spring inside, eventually so much that it is not overcome by manifold vacuum.

Checking timing could be an issue as my dial back light walked with a bunch of my drills & Saw Zall so I was just going to get the pinging to stop before damage is done and the truck parked.

I think I can put hands on my vacuum gauge so I can at least check when the arm starts to move @ what HG and where it stops.

Dave ----

 

[FuzzFace2]

I imagine you could use the same twist tie trick one would use to see carb secondary opening to determine how far the arm pulls in at 20"Hg, or whatever manifold vacuum is in your truck.

Observe how much advance that equates to with a timing light.

Then drill the arm for a roll pin that won't fit into the housing.

Interesting that the 300 advance unit has those gussets cast in to the longer housing.

IIRC, the Crane style advance just puts more preload on the spring inside, eventually so much that it is not overcome by manifold vacuum.

Checking timing could be an issue as my dial back light walked with a bunch of my drills & Saw Zall so I was just going to get the pinging to stop before damage is done and the truck parked.

I think I can put hands on my vacuum gauge so I can at least check when the arm starts to move @ what HG and where it stops.

Dave ----

You know how posts go - Good news Bad news

First the bad:

I left the truck out last night and it started raining before I could get it inside (not the bad thing).

When drying it I could not wipe the drips off the windshield then hit me it leaks!

1 of the 2 spots that the sealer did not "seal" to good I did not add enough of the left over to seal it.

Hope once dry I can stuff more in there.

I checked the oil level and the stick had milk shake on it.

Had to run it in & out a few times before I could see a level.

It is down 1/2 qt but looked clear. Checking the cap only the cap had a little under it but none on the rockers or head. I think I have not driven it enough to boil out the condensation. Yes it have a new stat, factory gauge reads low, and the PVC system is new but will check both when I can run it outside.

The good:

The vacuum can on the dist. is adjustable!

Uses a 1/8" Allen wrench

Here are the numbers on the tag.

91

E0TE or EOTE

12127

PA

9J27

The can had a 4 cast into it.

Don't know what all that means?

I am sure this is not the motor from this truck as it had electric switches on the valve cover that would be for a newer year maybe with feed back system, mine did not have any wires to plug into them or listed on the radiator stickers.

So I don't know if this dist. is from this truck or not?

I gave it 2 turns counter clock wise as per what I think Gary had posted and will see what that does as a starting point. I don't have a dial back timing light to know where I am at and why I just turned it.

If not raining tomorrow I will take the truck out for a spin with wrench in hand and adjust as needed.

Dave ----

[ArdWrknTrk]

You know how posts go - Good news Bad news

First the bad:

I left the truck out last night and it started raining before I could get it inside (not the bad thing).

When drying it I could not wipe the drips off the windshield then hit me it leaks!

1 of the 2 spots that the sealer did not "seal" to good I did not add enough of the left over to seal it.

Hope once dry I can stuff more in there.

I checked the oil level and the stick had milk shake on it.

Had to run it in & out a few times before I could see a level.

It is down 1/2 qt but looked clear. Checking the cap only the cap had a little under it but none on the rockers or head. I think I have not driven it enough to boil out the condensation. Yes it have a new stat, factory gauge reads low, and the PVC system is new but will check both when I can run it outside.

The good:

The vacuum can on the dist. is adjustable!

Uses a 1/8" Allen wrench

Here are the numbers on the tag.

91

E0TE or EOTE

12127

PA

9J27

The can had a 4 cast into it.

Don't know what all that means?

I am sure this is not the motor from this truck as it had electric switches on the valve cover that would be for a newer year maybe with feed back system, mine did not have any wires to plug into them or listed on the radiator stickers.

So I don't know if this dist. is from this truck or not?

I gave it 2 turns counter clock wise as per what I think Gary had posted and will see what that does as a starting point. I don't have a dial back timing light to know where I am at and why I just turned it.

If not raining tomorrow I will take the truck out for a spin with wrench in hand and adjust as needed.

Dave ----

Dave, I expect the 4 is just a mold number.

This way as it wears out QC can have it changed.

Why would you need a dial back to check how much advance you're getting?

It's pretty easy for me to do the simple math when I release the hemostats on my distributor hose.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Dave, I expect the 4 is just a mold number.

This way as it wears out QC can have it changed.

Why would you need a dial back to check how much advance you're getting?

It's pretty easy for me to do the simple math when I release the hemostats on my distributor hose.

Glad the can is adjustable. That should simplify things. Hope you get it dialed in easily.

Found three hits in the MPC for that distributor:

[FuzzFace2]

Dave, I expect the 4 is just a mold number.

This way as it wears out QC can have it changed.

Why would you need a dial back to check how much advance you're getting?

It's pretty easy for me to do the simple math when I release the hemostats on my distributor hose.

Math whats that

Little lazy on my part.

I should at least see what the base timing is and to see if the mechanical advance works (moves not the numbers). Main thing right now is to stop the pinging before I hurt this motor as the truck will be parked for a long time as I don't have the money to fix that.

Wife has been saying I should have taken $10k and bought a newer truck. I keep telling her I cant fix them with out another $5k in tools and could take days to fix as you have to take EVERYTHING apart just to do something simple.

On new stuff most you need to drop a pan just to get to the drain plug!

Thank you I will keep my old truck that I can rig to get home to fix it right, try that with something new.

Dave ----

[FuzzFace2]

Glad the can is adjustable. That should simplify things. Hope you get it dialed in easily.

Found three hits in the MPC for that distributor:

Thanks

I am also happy it is adjustable as I was having night mares on it if it was not.

Am I reading it right being my truck is a 12/80 F100 4x2 w/300 and M/T

I can see the 1980 but the rest does not match?

I see 4x2 as a F250 with 300 M/T?

Then see 1980 F-U 150/250 -- F/W/D (4x4)

It is what it is and it's working so it stays but just strange is all.

Thanks again

Dave ----

edit: still raining, pretty good since I got up at 6am, so have not taken the truck out for a test drive.

[Gary Lewis]

Glad the can is adjustable. That should simplify things. Hope you get it dialed in easily.

Found three hits in the MPC for that distributor:

Thanks

I am also happy it is adjustable as I was having night mares on it if it was not.

Am I reading it right being my truck is a 12/80 F100 4x2 w/300 and M/T

I can see the 1980 but the rest does not match?

I see 4x2 as a F250 with 300 M/T?

Then see 1980 F-U 150/250 -- F/W/D (4x4)

It is what it is and it's working so it stays but just strange is all.

Thanks again

Dave ----

edit: still raining, pretty good since I got up at 6am, so have not taken the truck out for a test drive.

Basically it says that dizzy came from one of these vehicles:

• Parts List #1: 1980 F250 - - 2/W/D-M/T exc, Calif. or 1980 F-U150/250 - - 4/W/D

• Parts List #5: 6 Cyl. 1980 300 C.I.D. (4.9L) or 1980 E250 - - M/T

• Parts List #49: 1980 6 Cyl. 300 C.I.D. (4.9L) or 1980 F250 - - 2/W/D-M/T exc. Calif. or 1980 F-U150/250 - - 4/W/D

But the fact that it is working is the key. And it has an adjustable vacuum advance is a big boon. So what it came from doesn't really matter.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Glad the can is adjustable. That should simplify things. Hope you get it dialed in easily.

Found three hits in the MPC for that distributor:

Thanks

I am also happy it is adjustable as I was having night mares on it if it was not.

Am I reading it right being my truck is a 12/80 F100 4x2 w/300 and M/T

I can see the 1980 but the rest does not match?

I see 4x2 as a F250 with 300 M/T?

Then see 1980 F-U 150/250 -- F/W/D (4x4)

It is what it is and it's working so it stays but just strange is all.

Thanks again

Dave ----

edit: still raining, pretty good since I got up at 6am, so have not taken the truck out for a test drive.

Be glad. It's sleeting up here.

People ask me why I keep this truck.

I tell them it's the last carburetor, non-computer, non-airbag vehicle that I can fix with baling wire and a hammer, some get it.