ArdWrknTrk Posted June 5, 2022 Share Posted June 5, 2022 My truck is down for the count Nothing really bad, clutch pivot on the motor block broke again 3rd time. I could not find the spare I bought so my son tried to re-weld it that I think will not work again. But when he was doing that I pulled the right side mirror to tighten the pivot up some as every time you closed the door it would move. Got it back on and went to adjust it and the mount broke from the pivot. That was the last straw for the day as it was 97*f out, the wifes car would not turn over but had lights the day after we got it back from the drealer for a CEL, traction light and a blicking speed control on light. They said it was because of dirty oil (BS) and found a bad belt tensioner and dirty brake fluid. That I had to fix so she could use it the next day or I was stuck home as she would need my Durango. The car in my garage battery would not start the car so I found out once my son moved it out and not being able to move it into the house garage even with a jump start. Had to clean the battery connections and put water in then a jump start got it running. Son replaced the battery in wifes car so that is done and picked up dinner last night. Still pissed at the truck so I did not go back out today to look more for the new pivot, the 300 six pivots are NA, or put the fixed one in or even order a new mirror. Dave ---- ps my son just said the guy at Slicktruckparts.com told him the motor side clutch pivot is the same from 65 to 83 for in lines are all the same? Picture he sent did not look the same, was not threaded all the way up to the nut part like I think mine was. Also think Gary or was it number dummy (Bill) said it was a 80 to 83 only part? More looking into this I guess. Gary has posted the drawings and part numbers in the WHYDTYTT thread. The parts are definitely different '65-77 and '77 on. But your I-6 pivot doesn't have anything but concentric radial features Dave. A replacement could pretty easily be turned on a lathe. If you had a drawing or the G-code you could sent it off to any machine shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted June 5, 2022 Author Share Posted June 5, 2022 Gary has posted the drawings and part numbers in the WHYDTYTT thread. The parts are definitely different '65-77 and '77 on. But your I-6 pivot doesn't have anything but concentric radial features Dave. A replacement could pretty easily be turned on a lathe. If you had a drawing or the G-code you could sent it off to any machine shop. Thanks Jim I seen it and posted. If I can find the good one I may give the machine shop that messed up the king pin bushings a 2nd try if the price is not to bad. I can also do a Google search to see if there are any others I have not been told of and maybe 3D printing of them? Just need good one to take measurements from is all Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted June 5, 2022 Author Share Posted June 5, 2022 Thanks Jim I seen it and posted. If I can find the good one I may give the machine shop that messed up the king pin bushings a 2nd try if the price is not to bad. I can also do a Google search to see if there are any others I have not been told of and maybe 3D printing of them? Just need good one to take measurements from is all Dave ---- Good new, bad news & badder news. Good news: I found the NOS part and got measurements from it. 3" long my fixed one is 3.25" long, too long but I had nothing to go by when I fixed it. Bad news: I figured I would use the fixed one so I could use the NOS to have others made off of. I think I saw why it broke, the threads were either too long and bottomed out or the weld would not let it seat on the nut part of the pivot like the base on the NOS one. Badder news: In trying to get the fixed one to sit on a flat base I ground down the weld and was using a die to thread it down a little more and the welded threads that my son said was better than mine failed also leaving the threaded part in the die. So I had to use the NOS part on the truck and will try and fix the fixed one again and see if i can have someone make a few if not to much $$$. Also when I pulled the linkage Ford uses thin plastic bushing between the rod ends that go thru the firewall. They were new when the truck was put on the road little over 2 years ago, they fell apart when I took the linkage apart. So I had to hit the hardware store for something better but they did not have anything that would fit either the rod or the hole it went thru so I had to make them. The good is they are thicker and little tougher so I hope last longer and I got extras and it is not to bad now that I know what has to be done to make them work. I also looked for the new / broken mirror head, glass broke when wife backed over the box from LMC, I must have thrown it out SO the truck now moved so if I need to use it I can. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted June 5, 2022 Share Posted June 5, 2022 Good new, bad news & badder news. Good news: I found the NOS part and got measurements from it. 3" long my fixed one is 3.25" long, too long but I had nothing to go by when I fixed it. Bad news: I figured I would use the fixed one so I could use the NOS to have others made off of. I think I saw why it broke, the threads were either too long and bottomed out or the weld would not let it seat on the nut part of the pivot like the base on the NOS one. Badder news: In trying to get the fixed one to sit on a flat base I ground down the weld and was using a die to thread it down a little more and the welded threads that my son said was better than mine failed also leaving the threaded part in the die. So I had to use the NOS part on the truck and will try and fix the fixed one again and see if i can have someone make a few if not to much $$$. Also when I pulled the linkage Ford uses thin plastic bushing between the rod ends that go thru the firewall. They were new when the truck was put on the road little over 2 years ago, they fell apart when I took the linkage apart. So I had to hit the hardware store for something better but they did not have anything that would fit either the rod or the hole it went thru so I had to make them. The good is they are thicker and little tougher so I hope last longer and I got extras and it is not to bad now that I know what has to be done to make them work. I also looked for the new / broken mirror head, glass broke when wife backed over the box from LMC, I must have thrown it out SO the truck now moved so if I need to use it I can. Dave ---- Is this the part that threads into the block? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted June 5, 2022 Author Share Posted June 5, 2022 Is this the part that threads into the block? Yes it is, that one you cant get any more You can get the plastic bushing, the felt seal even the clip that holds the bushing on but not the screw in pivot. The NOS one I got years ago, I think a member found on Ebay so I grabbed it ASAP. Up till this morning I could not find it and I was freaking out on how I was going to fix this. It was in a box with 2 3 port fuel switching valve (also hard to get) and the inside door handle gaskets Gary sent me with my AMC parts LOL Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 6, 2022 Share Posted June 6, 2022 Is this the part that threads into the block? Yes it is, that one you cant get any more You can get the plastic bushing, the felt seal even the clip that holds the bushing on but not the screw in pivot. The NOS one I got years ago, I think a member found on Ebay so I grabbed it ASAP. Up till this morning I could not find it and I was freaking out on how I was going to fix this. It was in a box with 2 3 port fuel switching valve (also hard to get) and the inside door handle gaskets Gary sent me with my AMC parts LOL Dave ---- I think the fact that it wouldn't seat down against the base is what caused the old one to break. No matter how good the welds, focusing the force right on the spot where it clears the block is a bad thing. Hopefully the NOS one went down against the block as that will make it much stronger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted June 6, 2022 Author Share Posted June 6, 2022 I think the fact that it wouldn't seat down against the base is what caused the old one to break. No matter how good the welds, focusing the force right on the spot where it clears the block is a bad thing. Hopefully the NOS one went down against the block as that will make it much stronger. Yes it did and think you are right about it not seating as I checked the fixed one before I broke it and the NOS one when I installed it. I have nothing to loose drilling and tapping for 9/16 threads like you said. I never gave that a thought other than driving a roll pin in like I did. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted June 13, 2022 Author Share Posted June 13, 2022 I think the fact that it wouldn't seat down against the base is what caused the old one to break. No matter how good the welds, focusing the force right on the spot where it clears the block is a bad thing. Hopefully the NOS one went down against the block as that will make it much stronger. Yes it did and think you are right about it not seating as I checked the fixed one before I broke it and the NOS one when I installed it. I have nothing to loose drilling and tapping for 9/16 threads like you said. I never gave that a thought other than driving a roll pin in like I did. Dave ---- Up date: Back on the 11th had a show a few towns away, truck made it there and back just fine. As I was driving it it dawned on me that the clutch pivot must have been going bad for a bit as the pedal did not come up all the way before it broke, had to pull it up with your toe. Clutch worked great. Still waiting for the replacement mirror from LMC. The mirror I barowed would not adjust so its pointing to the moon LOL Cant wait for the new mirror as I drive with it and I am lost with out it Dont know if we have a show this weekend or not but its going to be really hot even in the shade and who wants to sweat in the shade? Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted July 17, 2022 Author Share Posted July 17, 2022 Up date: Back on the 11th had a show a few towns away, truck made it there and back just fine. As I was driving it it dawned on me that the clutch pivot must have been going bad for a bit as the pedal did not come up all the way before it broke, had to pull it up with your toe. Clutch worked great. Still waiting for the replacement mirror from LMC. The mirror I barowed would not adjust so its pointing to the moon LOL Cant wait for the new mirror as I drive with it and I am lost with out it Dont know if we have a show this weekend or not but its going to be really hot even in the shade and who wants to sweat in the shade? Dave ---- Well a little up dating: I got the mirror and mounted it. I am not real happy as it moves when ever you close the door. I have tighten up the 3 screws on the bottom but worry if I go to tight and I adjust it (and hope it stays put) I could snap the mount like the first one. Back a week or so I messed with the AC on the truck, replaced a o-ring that was leaking. Pulled vacuum for 45 min. then held it for 45 min and loss 2 psi. I then pulled vacuum for little over an hour and tried to charge the system. It only took part of 2 cans, could not get the system low above 20 psi and the high was 155 psi. I gave up as it was hot and it not taking the charge like it did when I first got the system working. To day I was able to add the rest of the 2 cans by soaking them in hot water. I even added a 3rd can and the low came up to 30 psi and the high to 150 psi at 800 rpm. Bringing the RPM up to 2500 the low dropped to 25 psi but the high stayed at 150 psi. I believe the used junk yard compressor I installed when first getting the system working is bad as the high side dose not go up with RPM. I ordered a compressor, evap coil & dryer, I have a new orifice valve and will replace ALL O-RINGS when I replace the parts and it works and stay working this time! Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 17, 2022 Share Posted July 17, 2022 Well a little up dating: I got the mirror and mounted it. I am not real happy as it moves when ever you close the door. I have tighten up the 3 screws on the bottom but worry if I go to tight and I adjust it (and hope it stays put) I could snap the mount like the first one. Back a week or so I messed with the AC on the truck, replaced a o-ring that was leaking. Pulled vacuum for 45 min. then held it for 45 min and loss 2 psi. I then pulled vacuum for little over an hour and tried to charge the system. It only took part of 2 cans, could not get the system low above 20 psi and the high was 155 psi. I gave up as it was hot and it not taking the charge like it did when I first got the system working. To day I was able to add the rest of the 2 cans by soaking them in hot water. I even added a 3rd can and the low came up to 30 psi and the high to 150 psi at 800 rpm. Bringing the RPM up to 2500 the low dropped to 25 psi but the high stayed at 150 psi. I believe the used junk yard compressor I installed when first getting the system working is bad as the high side dose not go up with RPM. I ordered a compressor, evap coil & dryer, I have a new orifice valve and will replace ALL O-RINGS when I replace the parts and it works and stay working this time! Dave ---- I hope the new stuff solves the A/C problem for you, Dave. On the mirror, have you thought about Loctite on the adjustment? I've used it on things like that before and it has worked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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