Carburetor feedback needed

[dirtymac]

This may not help, but here's what I've found.

First, there are only two calibration parts list numbers for an 82 truck w/a 400 & a C6 not in CA: 53 and 240

And here are parts of those parts lists showing the correct carb #'s. It isn't likely you'll find those, but just in case.

Of the four listed, I managed to find one of the E2TE-DDA on ebay (as is). I didn't investigate it too much but it does have a very similar configuration to the rebuilt one I have now. It does have some kind of throttle dashpot/solenoid, which my current one does not have.

I also searched a few carb companies but no-one has any of these exact models (so far).

I did find one for sale that is for a 79 Ford 400 with A/T and electric choke.

I'm going to hit the junk yard tomorrow but I don't expect to have much luck. They have very few fords from this time period.

[85lebaront2]

Of the four listed, I managed to find one of the E2TE-DDA on ebay (as is). I didn't investigate it too much but it does have a very similar configuration to the rebuilt one I have now. It does have some kind of throttle dashpot/solenoid, which my current one does not have.

I also searched a few carb companies but no-one has any of these exact models (so far).

I did find one for sale that is for a 79 Ford 400 with A/T and electric choke.

I'm going to hit the junk yard tomorrow but I don't expect to have much luck. They have very few fords from this time period.

The configuration is similar for a lot of the 2150s, more important for you is the venturii size marking.

[dirtymac]

Good evening everyone!

I would like to give you all a quick update on my carburetor situation. I did not find any vacuum leaks. I decided the original (to me) carb had a bad throttle shaft which was the most likely culprit of the sticky throttle. I did not feel like the electric choke was working properly. None of the adjustments I made seemed to help the warm up cycle and idle issues or the acceleration hesitation. Additionally, the original specs called for a 1.21 venturi and the rebuilt carb on the truck had 1.08 venturi.

I checked a few carburetor rebuilders online and found some promising options but I could not find one specifically mentioned in the paperwork Gary provided. I did find one of those on ebay. Based on what the seller told me, and the images, I felt like that was my best option. It was the correct part number, was in relatively good looking condition, and appeared to have never been touched. This is an E2TE-DDA. It was also a good price.

I purchased a rebuild kit, new choke, brass float, choke kickoff, and main jets from Mike's Carburetors. They were very helpful with my questions as well. The kit and parts were all correct and feel like good quality parts.

So I rebuilt the carburetor As best I can tell, the only work that has potentially been done to this new-to-me carb is an accelerator pump change. That is based on the fact that the pump housing had one odd screw and three matching. Other than that, the unit had very little if any wear marks on the housing or screws. I matched all of the settings it came with (fuel mixture, choke, idle adjustments, etc.) The only setting I didn't keep was the choke pull off adjustment -- I stuck with the new unit's factory setting.

I installed it this afternoon and problems solved. I had the fuel bowl a bit high and had some fuel bleed issues that caused the engine to not crank when hot. I corrected that and adjusted the warm idle a tad. It runs really nice. Cranks at a pretty low idle and warms up pretty well. No hesitation when driving. Idle's pretty smooth.

I am not done with it but its driveable now. I just want to say thank you to everyone that has offered advice and helped answer my questions. I also want to thank everyone that has contributed documentation to the site, because I used a lot of it!

[Gary Lewis]

Good evening everyone!

I would like to give you all a quick update on my carburetor situation. I did not find any vacuum leaks. I decided the original (to me) carb had a bad throttle shaft which was the most likely culprit of the sticky throttle. I did not feel like the electric choke was working properly. None of the adjustments I made seemed to help the warm up cycle and idle issues or the acceleration hesitation. Additionally, the original specs called for a 1.21 venturi and the rebuilt carb on the truck had 1.08 venturi.

I checked a few carburetor rebuilders online and found some promising options but I could not find one specifically mentioned in the paperwork Gary provided. I did find one of those on ebay. Based on what the seller told me, and the images, I felt like that was my best option. It was the correct part number, was in relatively good looking condition, and appeared to have never been touched. This is an E2TE-DDA. It was also a good price.

I purchased a rebuild kit, new choke, brass float, choke kickoff, and main jets from Mike's Carburetors. They were very helpful with my questions as well. The kit and parts were all correct and feel like good quality parts.

So I rebuilt the carburetor As best I can tell, the only work that has potentially been done to this new-to-me carb is an accelerator pump change. That is based on the fact that the pump housing had one odd screw and three matching. Other than that, the unit had very little if any wear marks on the housing or screws. I matched all of the settings it came with (fuel mixture, choke, idle adjustments, etc.) The only setting I didn't keep was the choke pull off adjustment -- I stuck with the new unit's factory setting.

I installed it this afternoon and problems solved. I had the fuel bowl a bit high and had some fuel bleed issues that caused the engine to not crank when hot. I corrected that and adjusted the warm idle a tad. It runs really nice. Cranks at a pretty low idle and warms up pretty well. No hesitation when driving. Idle's pretty smooth.

I am not done with it but its driveable now. I just want to say thank you to everyone that has offered advice and helped answer my questions. I also want to thank everyone that has contributed documentation to the site, because I used a lot of it!

Congratulatons!!! Glad it worked.

[85lebaront2]

Good evening everyone!

I would like to give you all a quick update on my carburetor situation. I did not find any vacuum leaks. I decided the original (to me) carb had a bad throttle shaft which was the most likely culprit of the sticky throttle. I did not feel like the electric choke was working properly. None of the adjustments I made seemed to help the warm up cycle and idle issues or the acceleration hesitation. Additionally, the original specs called for a 1.21 venturi and the rebuilt carb on the truck had 1.08 venturi.

I checked a few carburetor rebuilders online and found some promising options but I could not find one specifically mentioned in the paperwork Gary provided. I did find one of those on ebay. Based on what the seller told me, and the images, I felt like that was my best option. It was the correct part number, was in relatively good looking condition, and appeared to have never been touched. This is an E2TE-DDA. It was also a good price.

I purchased a rebuild kit, new choke, brass float, choke kickoff, and main jets from Mike's Carburetors. They were very helpful with my questions as well. The kit and parts were all correct and feel like good quality parts.

So I rebuilt the carburetor As best I can tell, the only work that has potentially been done to this new-to-me carb is an accelerator pump change. That is based on the fact that the pump housing had one odd screw and three matching. Other than that, the unit had very little if any wear marks on the housing or screws. I matched all of the settings it came with (fuel mixture, choke, idle adjustments, etc.) The only setting I didn't keep was the choke pull off adjustment -- I stuck with the new unit's factory setting.

I installed it this afternoon and problems solved. I had the fuel bowl a bit high and had some fuel bleed issues that caused the engine to not crank when hot. I corrected that and adjusted the warm idle a tad. It runs really nice. Cranks at a pretty low idle and warms up pretty well. No hesitation when driving. Idle's pretty smooth.

I am not done with it but its driveable now. I just want to say thank you to everyone that has offered advice and helped answer my questions. I also want to thank everyone that has contributed documentation to the site, because I used a lot of it!

Glad you got it sorted. They really are an easy carburetor to rebuild.

[Ifitaintbroke]

Glad you got it sorted. They really are an easy carburetor to rebuild.

Bill, all I carry for factory replacement at work is Tomco carbs, and I can tell you another thing that is concerning about them: the listed compatibility. They will list the same carb for a very wide range of engine sizes, and I'm pretty sure the factory calibration was different for each, even if the same carb was used.

[85lebaront2]

Bill, all I carry for factory replacement at work is Tomco carbs, and I can tell you another thing that is concerning about them: the listed compatibility. They will list the same carb for a very wide range of engine sizes, and I'm pretty sure the factory calibration was different for each, even if the same carb was used.

You just named the reason I will never buy a Tomco anything. Their kits were junk, super soft gaskets, and a needle and seat that rarely worked.

I also know what I used to sell to J.N.Grillo, a core supplier out of New York. Carburetors slapped together with mis-matched parts just to get a core value. The best one of all, Vince came down one time and was looking for the Holley 4 barrels Chrysler used, he was willing to pay top dollar for them. I went to all the MOPAR dealers in my area and gave the service managers $1 a hole ($4 each carb) for them. When Vince came back I had 4 55 gal barrels full of them, he dumped one and counted, multiplied the count by 4 and then I think he was paying $15 each for them, he was peeling $100 and even a couple of $500 bills off his roll.

Next time he came down he looked at me and said "You got me good on those" bottom dropped out on those.

[Ifitaintbroke]

You just named the reason I will never buy a Tomco anything. Their kits were junk, super soft gaskets, and a needle and seat that rarely worked.

I also know what I used to sell to J.N.Grillo, a core supplier out of New York. Carburetors slapped together with mis-matched parts just to get a core value. The best one of all, Vince came down one time and was looking for the Holley 4 barrels Chrysler used, he was willing to pay top dollar for them. I went to all the MOPAR dealers in my area and gave the service managers $1 a hole ($4 each carb) for them. When Vince came back I had 4 55 gal barrels full of them, he dumped one and counted, multiplied the count by 4 and then I think he was paying $15 each for them, he was peeling $100 and even a couple of $500 bills off his roll.

Next time he came down he looked at me and said "You got me good on those" bottom dropped out on those.

Bad thing is, it's hard to find anything that hasn't been rebuilt at least once. Even if you do, it's probably locked up from years of sitting.

[85lebaront2]

Bad thing is, it's hard to find anything that hasn't been rebuilt at least once. Even if you do, it's probably locked up from years of sitting.

Very true. This is why I always rebuild mine rather than buy a rebuilt. The better rebuilds used to come with bushed shaft bores and new shafts.

[dirtymac]

I was wondering what the rubber/gasket looking stuff was around the harmonic balancer. I have never noticed that on a balance before.

Could you recommend a piston stop tool? I don't currently have one and I can't decide between the whistle style on another one. I'm concerned my accuracy may not be good enough with the whistle.

I have an update on the harmonic balancer. I have had the replacement sitting in a box for for about a month now. I decided to wait and replace it while I was doing the power steering pump, gearbox, and lower steering shaft. I figured the more room would make things easier (and it has so far).

There were a few comments about what appears to be RTV or some kind of sealant around timing chain cover. Not only is it visible, I have noticed that some of it has separated and is just dangling there. This is external, but I am curious if this is something I should be worried about?

Second, when I removed the balancer bolt and washer, I found sealant around the washer and also on the bolt itself. There may have also been some around the front main seal. Does anyone know if this would be a factory application or, again, if it would be something to worry about?

I am still deciding on checking the timing chain. I am leaning toward removing the fuel pump because 1) I have spare gaskets and 2) I have a lot of room to do it.

I'm also going to replace the front main seal while I'm at it.