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You may well have a slipped balancer - especially given the rubber that's sticking out of it.

Here are several piston stop tools on Amazon. And I think a stop is better than a whistle.

I may try the pencil method because I have plenty of those lying around. I think I'm going to locate TDC first and compare that to what I have on the harmonic balancer and my current timing before I go too much further. I'll let yall know what I find out.

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You may well have a slipped balancer - especially given the rubber that's sticking out of it.

Here are several piston stop tools on Amazon. And I think a stop is better than a whistle.

I was able to get a whistle quicker than a any of the other style tools. Between that and a pencil, TDC seems to be around -7 degrees on the harmonic balancer's indicator. That puts me around 15 degrees of timing.

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I was able to get a whistle quicker than a any of the other style tools. Between that and a pencil, TDC seems to be around -7 degrees on the harmonic balancer's indicator. That puts me around 15 degrees of timing.

If you are off 7 degrees today you'll be off more, or less, tomorrow. Once the outer ring lets go it walks around and may eventually come completely off, destroying things as it does. So I think it is time to replace it.

As an example, a friend of mine had an Opel Kadett in the 60's. Someone had installed A/C and then he'd done a tuneup. After the tuneup it ran poorly so he eventually brought it to my father. Turns out that every time the A/C compressor came on it slowed the engine so rapidly that the outer ring of the balancer slipped and the indicated timing changed.

I'm not saying that yours is changing that often, but I do believe that it will change and the ring may eventually come off. And that's a bad situation. So I'd change it now.

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If you are off 7 degrees today you'll be off more, or less, tomorrow. Once the outer ring lets go it walks around and may eventually come completely off, destroying things as it does. So I think it is time to replace it.

As an example, a friend of mine had an Opel Kadett in the 60's. Someone had installed A/C and then he'd done a tuneup. After the tuneup it ran poorly so he eventually brought it to my father. Turns out that every time the A/C compressor came on it slowed the engine so rapidly that the outer ring of the balancer slipped and the indicated timing changed.

I'm not saying that yours is changing that often, but I do believe that it will change and the ring may eventually come off. And that's a bad situation. So I'd change it now.

I definitely want to replace it. The potential damage it could cause concerns me. I know I’ll need an impact wrench and a puller. I’d also like to inspect and potentially change the front main seal at the same time.

I think this is definitely something I can do myself. I’m still researching options for the balancer. I think a stock replacement should be fine for my needs. I see that Dorman sells what appears to be pretty close to the original.

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I definitely want to replace it. The potential damage it could cause concerns me. I know I’ll need an impact wrench and a puller. I’d also like to inspect and potentially change the front main seal at the same time.

I think this is definitely something I can do myself. I’m still researching options for the balancer. I think a stock replacement should be fine for my needs. I see that Dorman sells what appears to be pretty close to the original.

I have a Dorman balancer on my truck since 2008 and it hasn't caused me any trouble.

Often you can "rent" a puller from your local parts store, if you buy the part there.

Not much point in purchasing a specialized tool for a one off job.

But a 15/16" deep impact socket is a good thing to have, even if you just use it to turn the engine over.

I would definitely change the FMS at the same time.

Be sure to grease the lip so it doesn't start dry on your new damper.

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I have a Dorman balancer on my truck since 2008 and it hasn't caused me any trouble.

Often you can "rent" a puller from your local parts store, if you buy the part there.

Not much point in purchasing a specialized tool for a one off job.

But a 15/16" deep impact socket is a good thing to have, even if you just use it to turn the engine over.

I would definitely change the FMS at the same time.

Be sure to grease the lip so it doesn't start dry on your new damper.

I didn't have any trouble finding the Dorman balancer. Did you replace the washer and bolt? I've seen many people recommend they both be replaced. I am having a hard time finding them.

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I didn't have any trouble finding the Dorman balancer. Did you replace the washer and bolt? I've seen many people recommend they both be replaced. I am having a hard time finding them.

You probably aren't asking me, but I've never replace the washer or the bolt and have not had problems.

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I didn't have any trouble finding the Dorman balancer. Did you replace the washer and bolt? I've seen many people recommend they both be replaced. I am having a hard time finding them.

I did not replace the bolt and washer.

They weren't badly corroded and came out fine for me the few times I've had my timing cover off to replace the timing set.

Perhaps you don't intend to go that deep, but it might be wise to check if there's considerable slop in your cam timing?

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I did not replace the bolt and washer.

They weren't badly corroded and came out fine for me the few times I've had my timing cover off to replace the timing set.

Perhaps you don't intend to go that deep, but it might be wise to check if there's considerable slop in your cam timing?

I would like to check the timing chain while I have the balancer off. From things I have read, if I remove the timing chain cover, I might have to pull the oil pan to get it back on. I'm pretty sure that will require pulling or lifting the engine, and I can't do either of those currently. Those are things I may have to wait on my mechanic for.

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