86Bug Truck Posted August 11, 2023 Share Posted August 11, 2023 Took on our old family ranch truck a few weeks ago - more history on "new members start here" page. Despite the first photo, it's in rough, rusty shape - but it does run. Plan is to get it stripped down and get a list going of what to replace/restore/upgrade - so far, the list is pretty much "everything". Bed is off, working on pulling the fuel tanks and exposing more frame. While waiting for some extra hands to remove bed, I started stripping the cab - took 3 days of painstaking floor mat removal. I don't really know what order is smartest, but getting things off and exposed is the route I'm going. It seems like every category I dip into (fuel system, suspension, etc.) is each its own giant project, so trying to keep chipping away. I was worried about the frame integrity, but seems solid The plan is to keep it reasonably stock, but I would like to improve it into a reliable driver (maybe single fuel tank, replace suspension, engine upgrades, etc.) Never done this before, so it's a slow and sometimes overwhelming adventure. I'll try to post orderly updates and not ask too many questions that have been answered before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Periwinkle Posted August 11, 2023 Share Posted August 11, 2023 Looking forward to watching your progress. Definitely some ventilation between the floor pans and rockers haha. Up in Canada, that body would be considered rust-free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86Bug Truck Posted August 13, 2023 Author Share Posted August 13, 2023 Looking forward to watching your progress. Definitely some ventilation between the floor pans and rockers haha. Up in Canada, that body would be considered rust-free. Making progress, alternating between knocking off rust and working on rear wheel. One worrisome thing: Every lug nut was resistant to removal through length of stud (like too hot to handle once off). I cleaned up the stud threads and lubricated before removing, but that didn't seem to make a difference - and they didn't want to thread back on easy either. I've read that this may be due to deformation of the taper against the rim? I suppose new lug nuts will be in order? I plan to get new rims (not steel), so maybe I cross that bridge when it comes - I find a lot of the wheel stuff confusing right now. Pulled the brake drum and not too bad in there - looks like maybe some cleanup and modest lubrication. I was considering the rear disc conversion, but I don't think it's an option for this particular truck. Up next on the list will be getting the right tools to pull the hub and check wheel bearings and seals - I don't know if replacement is a given or if I might get lucky. It took me awhile, but the rear axle is a C9 3.55 (I have not confirmed ratio by spinning shaft yet) known as a "Sterling". So much to learn. This tag hasn't given me many clues. Not sure if specific questions are better asked on a separate thread, figured I'd try here first. Y'all have a great weekend, Laurie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81-F150-Explorer Posted August 13, 2023 Share Posted August 13, 2023 Making progress, alternating between knocking off rust and working on rear wheel. One worrisome thing: Every lug nut was resistant to removal through length of stud (like too hot to handle once off). I cleaned up the stud threads and lubricated before removing, but that didn't seem to make a difference - and they didn't want to thread back on easy either. I've read that this may be due to deformation of the taper against the rim? I suppose new lug nuts will be in order? I plan to get new rims (not steel), so maybe I cross that bridge when it comes - I find a lot of the wheel stuff confusing right now. Pulled the brake drum and not too bad in there - looks like maybe some cleanup and modest lubrication. I was considering the rear disc conversion, but I don't think it's an option for this particular truck. Up next on the list will be getting the right tools to pull the hub and check wheel bearings and seals - I don't know if replacement is a given or if I might get lucky. It took me awhile, but the rear axle is a C9 3.55 (I have not confirmed ratio by spinning shaft yet) known as a "Sterling". So much to learn. This tag hasn't given me many clues. Not sure if specific questions are better asked on a separate thread, figured I'd try here first. Y'all have a great weekend, Laurie The taper of the lug nuts can wear significantly, and should be replaced if worn. The taper of the wheel, where the lug nuts touch the wheel, can also wear, but is not as common. Check the treads as well. If extremely rusty, I'd replace the studs, and lug nuts. Good Luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86Bug Truck Posted August 13, 2023 Author Share Posted August 13, 2023 The taper of the lug nuts can wear significantly, and should be replaced if worn. The taper of the wheel, where the lug nuts touch the wheel, can also wear, but is not as common. Check the treads as well. If extremely rusty, I'd replace the studs, and lug nuts. Good Luck. Thanks so much! Sounds like best course is replace the lug nuts and studs. Pulled the other rear wheel this morning - same result. I'll do some research on the thread size/pitch before ordering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86Bug Truck Posted September 3, 2023 Author Share Posted September 3, 2023 Thanks so much! Sounds like best course is replace the lug nuts and studs. Pulled the other rear wheel this morning - same result. I'll do some research on the thread size/pitch before ordering. Been a week and a half, thought I would post some updates. I've primed and painted the rear frame, got new leaf springs and shocks installed. Waiting on Timkens for rear axle/wheel bearings Pulled the rear driveshaft this weekend, and much research/confusion about what to do with the yoke (sounds more complicated than I would have guessed to pull it out and re-install or replace). Also dawned on me after looking at other photos that this nut must have backed itself off considerably. This I suppose explains all the play (and partially a destroyed needle bearing cup in u joint). Got some Moog u joints on order. I understand there's a longer yoke that would be an upgrade, so may just try to remove this, confirm length, and order accompanying seal and bearing. More reading ahead, lol Oh, but the new rims and tires are looking rad! Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 3, 2023 Share Posted September 3, 2023 Been a week and a half, thought I would post some updates. I've primed and painted the rear frame, got new leaf springs and shocks installed. Waiting on Timkens for rear axle/wheel bearings Pulled the rear driveshaft this weekend, and much research/confusion about what to do with the yoke (sounds more complicated than I would have guessed to pull it out and re-install or replace). Also dawned on me after looking at other photos that this nut must have backed itself off considerably. This I suppose explains all the play (and partially a destroyed needle bearing cup in u joint). Got some Moog u joints on order. I understand there's a longer yoke that would be an upgrade, so may just try to remove this, confirm length, and order accompanying seal and bearing. More reading ahead, lol Oh, but the new rims and tires are looking rad! Frame, shocks, and springs look great! And the wheels are excellent! The pinion nut backing off would cause serious problems in the differential as there's supposed to be a preload to prevent the gear mesh from changing. So you may be a candidate for a new ring and pinion. And there is the long-pinion upgrade. That was done on Big Blue before I got him so I can't tell you what all was involved, but supposedly it solved a problem they were having so might be something to consider - especially if you have to replace the ring and pinion anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86Bug Truck Posted September 4, 2023 Author Share Posted September 4, 2023 Frame, shocks, and springs look great! And the wheels are excellent! The pinion nut backing off would cause serious problems in the differential as there's supposed to be a preload to prevent the gear mesh from changing. So you may be a candidate for a new ring and pinion. And there is the long-pinion upgrade. That was done on Big Blue before I got him so I can't tell you what all was involved, but supposedly it solved a problem they were having so might be something to consider - especially if you have to replace the ring and pinion anyway. Thanks for the info Gary! Even though it was bad news. Based on the expertise and equipment involved, I'm thinking a diff rebuild is best left to a specialist, will investigate options this week. Is there any basic diagnosing I can do in the meantime? Pull the pinion and look for damage? Or would the real evidence be inside the case itself? Next phase is start pulling apart the front end body, d/c the cab, and somehow figure out how to get the cab lifted off. Then start again from the frame out, cleaning and identifying problems. Happy Labor Day! Laurie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 4, 2023 Share Posted September 4, 2023 Thanks for the info Gary! Even though it was bad news. Based on the expertise and equipment involved, I'm thinking a diff rebuild is best left to a specialist, will investigate options this week. Is there any basic diagnosing I can do in the meantime? Pull the pinion and look for damage? Or would the real evidence be inside the case itself? Next phase is start pulling apart the front end body, d/c the cab, and somehow figure out how to get the cab lifted off. Then start again from the frame out, cleaning and identifying problems. Happy Labor Day! Laurie Laurie, pulling the pinion involves removing both axles and the carrier+ring gear. You could torque the pinion nut then check the backlash and turning resistance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 4, 2023 Share Posted September 4, 2023 Laurie, pulling the pinion involves removing both axles and the carrier+ring gear. You could torque the pinion nut then check the backlash and turning resistance. Jim is right, pulling the pinion is major work. And if you do it a rebuild of the diff is required as the mesh of the pinion to the ring gear has to be reset, and that is best done by a specialist. And he is also right that you may get by with just retorquing the pinion nut. But that won't tell you if damage has been done, and if it has then further driving will eventually lead to failure. You can pull the rear cover on that axle and inspect the ring gear to see if damage has been done. You'll want to drain the fluid out as it'll all come out when you pull the cover, and when you drain it you should look in it for metal shavings or flecks. This might be an area for that specialist you mentioned as he'll know how to torque the pinion nut and test the backlash and resistance. Plus he'll know what to look for when he pulls the cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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