Gary Lewis Posted November 22, 2023 Share Posted November 22, 2023 So, I have done Ford's procedure this evening. The TPS voltage is about 0.89 to 0.92 when the throttle hits the stop screw now. It's about 4.42 to 4.55 on full throttle when key on and engine off. I'll see, how it behave tomorrow. We should get about 0 degrees Celsius. What is about the canister that filters the gasoline haze? If I clamp the vacuum hose that is connected to it, the engine is about to starve...is this canister a possible part, that can cause a vacuum failure? That is the charcoal canister that absorbs (adsorbs?) the gas vapor when parked and gives it back when the engine is running. It is a known "leak" and the ECU compensates for it. Anyway, I hope all of your work pays off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted November 23, 2023 Author Share Posted November 23, 2023 That is the charcoal canister that absorbs (adsorbs?) the gas vapor when parked and gives it back when the engine is running. It is a known "leak" and the ECU compensates for it. Anyway, I hope all of your work pays off. Ok. I understand. The cold-start behavior is still very poor. I would say, my jeep, that using a carburetor starts better when it's cold outside. I will change the ACT sensor this weekend. I also mentioned, that I've made a mistake in Ford's idle procedure, so I'll do it again on the weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted November 24, 2023 Author Share Posted November 24, 2023 That is the charcoal canister that absorbs (adsorbs?) the gas vapor when parked and gives it back when the engine is running. It is a known "leak" and the ECU compensates for it. Anyway, I hope all of your work pays off. It seems, that I have a leak somewhere in the front upper area...if I touch the top of my steering shaft, where the ignition switch is located, after it rains a bit stronger, there are water drops on the shaft... I've noticed before, that my carpet is a bit wet after rain, but I thought this was from my shoes... Does anyone know for common points on which water can intrude? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 24, 2023 Share Posted November 24, 2023 It seems, that I have a leak somewhere in the front upper area...if I touch the top of my steering shaft, where the ignition switch is located, after it rains a bit stronger, there are water drops on the shaft... I've noticed before, that my carpet is a bit wet after rain, but I thought this was from my shoes... Does anyone know for common points on which water can intrude? That sounds very much like the caulking/sealant inside the cowl has cracked or come loose. Usually if the windshield is leaking it follows the lip off to the side of the windshield and ends up by the kick panel. Id think the best way to tell is tape a piece of plastic to the back of the cowl, under the wiper arms, and then use a hose or bucket of water to see if it's the cowl well leaking. If you do remove this, Gary would suggest gluing a piece of screen to the underside of the slots to keep leaves and other debris out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted November 25, 2023 Author Share Posted November 25, 2023 That sounds very much like the caulking/sealant inside the cowl has cracked or come loose. Usually if the windshield is leaking it follows the lip off to the side of the windshield and ends up by the kick panel. Id think the best way to tell is tape a piece of plastic to the back of the cowl, under the wiper arms, and then use a hose or bucket of water to see if it's the cowl well leaking. If you do remove this, Gary would suggest gluing a piece of screen to the underside of the slots to keep leaves and other debris out. Ok, thanks. I will check this tomorrow. The screen is a good idea. I have some in stock, made of stainless steel, that will fit. This sheet is loose: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted November 25, 2023 Share Posted November 25, 2023 Ok, thanks. I will check this tomorrow. The screen is a good idea. I have some in stock, made of stainless steel, that will fit. This sheet is loose: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n142579/20231125_160759.jpg https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n142579/20231125_160802.jpg That is just a cover to finish the body and has nothing to do with any leaks inside. You will need to pull it off to get down into the cowl area to clean it out and re-seal. BTW that cowl drains down behind the fenders where there is a "duck bill" that should let the water out. What happens is the duck bill also traps dirt & leaves and it fills up and rust the area where the door jamb and rockers meet up. To clean out that area and duck bill pull off the kick panels. If you dont have AC you can reach in the opening to clean it out. If you have AC remove the 4 screws holding the plate in place and I bet you will find it full of dirt. Once clean I would flush the cowl with water forcing water down both sides to flush it out. Once the cowl is clean and dry you you then reseal the cowl area. The factory used seam sealer but it can be a pain to get to the outer areas where the water drains down to the duck bills. Some have used that spray sealer they have on TV to make a boat out of screen, forget the name now They get a nozzle and straw from say WD40 and put in on the spray sealer this way you can pin point the sealer right where you need it. Let it sit up a day or 2 and do it again to make sure it is sealed. Once the 2nd coat sets up you can test with water in the cowl area and see if you have any leaks. At this time when testing with water you may want to start up on the windshield to see if it is leaking as a final test. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted December 3, 2023 Author Share Posted December 3, 2023 Ok, thanks. I will check this tomorrow. The screen is a good idea. I have some in stock, made of stainless steel, that will fit. This sheet is loose: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n142579/20231125_160759.jpg https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n142579/20231125_160802.jpg That is just a cover to finish the body and has nothing to do with any leaks inside. You will need to pull it off to get down into the cowl area to clean it out and re-seal. BTW that cowl drains down behind the fenders where there is a "duck bill" that should let the water out. What happens is the duck bill also traps dirt & leaves and it fills up and rust the area where the door jamb and rockers meet up. To clean out that area and duck bill pull off the kick panels. If you dont have AC you can reach in the opening to clean it out. If you have AC remove the 4 screws holding the plate in place and I bet you will find it full of dirt. Once clean I would flush the cowl with water forcing water down both sides to flush it out. Once the cowl is clean and dry you you then reseal the cowl area. The factory used seam sealer but it can be a pain to get to the outer areas where the water drains down to the duck bills. Some have used that spray sealer they have on TV to make a boat out of screen, forget the name now They get a nozzle and straw from say WD40 and put in on the spray sealer this way you can pin point the sealer right where you need it. Let it sit up a day or 2 and do it again to make sure it is sealed. Once the 2nd coat sets up you can test with water in the cowl area and see if you have any leaks. At this time when testing with water you may want to start up on the windshield to see if it is leaking as a final test. Dave ---- I'm a bit late with my answer...but thanks, I'll try this next weekend... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted December 3, 2023 Author Share Posted December 3, 2023 Ok. I understand. The cold-start behavior is still very poor. I would say, my jeep, that using a carburetor starts better when it's cold outside. I will change the ACT sensor this weekend. I also mentioned, that I've made a mistake in Ford's idle procedure, so I'll do it again on the weekend. I haven't changed the ACT, but I've unplugged it...and the car starts also at low temperature! I'll try the same with another ATC, that I'll lay on the block, to see, if it also works, before o I install it. When the engine is cold, I hear a mechanical rattling, near the sound my lifter makes when it stucks...when the engine is warm, this sound vanishes. As I'm not sure, if my dipstick shows the correct value, I'll check if the engine needs some more oil... Or is it normal, that you can hear the lifters, when the oil is cold? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 3, 2023 Share Posted December 3, 2023 I haven't changed the ACT, but I've unplugged it...and the car starts also at low temperature! I'll try the same with another ATC, that I'll lay on the block, to see, if it also works, before o I install it. When the engine is cold, I hear a mechanical rattling, near the sound my lifter makes when it stucks...when the engine is warm, this sound vanishes. As I'm not sure, if my dipstick shows the correct value, I'll check if the engine needs some more oil... Or is it normal, that you can hear the lifters, when the oil is cold? Seems like the ACT may be the problem. As for the lifter noise, Big Blue has one that taps when it is cold but goes away when warmed up. It is just a bit loose but isn’t causing a problem, so I’m not going to worry about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted December 3, 2023 Author Share Posted December 3, 2023 Seems like the ACT may be the problem. As for the lifter noise, Big Blue has one that taps when it is cold but goes away when warmed up. It is just a bit loose but isn’t causing a problem, so I’m not going to worry about it. Hi Gary, I hope so. But it's very probably. About the lifters: Ok, that calms me down a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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