ratdude747

Cannot see if not a member of the group. Which I'm not... and given how you've described it, sounds like I should stay out of.

Not that I've had to type these a lot, but I imagine they're FAQ (or at least frequently issued advice): "You really should swap to a PMGR starter. Refer to this guide for how to wire it. Don't jumper the solenoid or remove the stock relay!" "You shouldn't be mashing the gas like that to start [or insert other bad behavior]. Refer to this video on how to properly start your carb." "There are no 'Stepside' Ford trucks. But there are 'Flareside' Ford trucks!" [Or insert any other Chevyism that doesn't fly around here 😛]

SEO is a double edged sword when it comes to the documentation side. Heaven forbid a service manual reseller discovers the site and raises a legal objection. I do know at least some of the documentations is searchable since looking for schematics is what got me here in the first place all that time ago.

Yes, the three of us could be seen driving back in at 5:10 in the interview video. And the guy who took our spot not long before 😛

Just saw that... man do I sound like a hoosier hick. Because I am?!? Fun times...

Yes, I was given a notification... and you did get my name right!

Diode wise, that's correct. You don't want the diode to conduct when the coil command is on (otherwise, it'll behave as a short to ground and pop the fuse). But you do want it to conduct when the coil command turns off and said coil induces a reverse voltage to keep current flowing.

The newly-made Raybestos one I used when I upgraded wasn't all that expensive if memory serves. Also no core charge. Despite what Raybestos says, mine did have the hard-to-find valve thingy on it (along with the level switch, which I added to my brake warning circuit because I'm an overachiever!). Pretty sure I bought mine from RockAuto?

The "frustrating" supplier was Jegs. I played the "ship back the old one and wait for another to come in stock" game with them once... only for the belated replacement to fail the same way. I since bought an aluminum radiator off eBay which is working great so far (but, the included "CNC" rad cap was way too high of a rated pressure, I didn't use it). I also had a liland global aluminum radiator from RockAuto that leaked a month after the warranty expired . Summit is cool... nothing bad to say about them! --- V8 radiators are a lot easier to find than 300's (mirror images of each other, literally)... and usually a bit cheaper too. All new ones have automatic transmission coolers included from what I've seen. Just make sure you get the correct A/C/non-A/C that matches the shroud you pick out (the A/C version is more expensive but definitely the way to go, even if you're not running A/C). Speaking of which, the fan shroud will be the bigger deal to get right, but I'm not the first to say that.

Yes, but you'll need to find/make new brackets since you're pre-1985. Look here in the site's documentation: https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/radiator-support.html (Tab "85+ Radiator in Earlier Support") I did this to my '84 as part of deer damage repair: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Deer-killed-my-Bullnose-Mangled-the-front-tp103398p104572.html I've had all sorts of fun finding a radiator that doesn't leak... been through one Liland Global (Rockauto) and two Champions (all are full-aluminum welded)... currently I have an eBay one (also welded aluminum) and so far (a few weeks) it's been fine (other than the provided radiator cap being way too high pressure- but I supplied my own instead). If it's like my 4.9 you'll also need a new upper radiator hose as the inlet size is bigger on the later model radiator (3", same as the unchanged outlet size). My understanding is that other than being mirrored, the V8 and 4.9 radiators were/are identical. Not sure if fan shrouds transfer... since I had to replace mine. I used a fiber-reinforced plastic one off a 1990 F150; the stock 1984 fan fit no problem. Then again, I'm on a 4.9, so if you're still using a stock clutch fan, be prepared.

Yes, coming from Mont-Tremblant I guess it must seem like that. From there, I pretty much live next door!!!

My first choice is (and is always) labor day weekend because that buys me an extra day off to do things with. But otherwise, the only September weekend that's possibly bad is the 21st (but even then, per current department rules, I can still take it off since only one of us is out then). Guess everybody BBQ'd their vacation time the last two months! That said, after last year, I don't think I'm staying at the Casino again... wasn't worth the price of admission IMHO. But that's me being a cheapskate who values having a microwave for leftovers over short distances (I don't gamble, so being in a casino doesn't do much for me).

Good point. You aren't going to deform it much w/o breaking it, Larry. Any chance of using something as a shim to take up the space and keep it from spinning? By staking I meant the bracket... deform the bracket near the bushing. Or use the same loctite I used originally on the lower hinge (I misplaced my tube of thin permetex blue, I used green loctite 609 since that's the bottle I could find in my stash). If I'm pulling the hinge it's getting replaced and if the new one looks the same, I'll loctite it on the bench first before I have to contend with spray grease. I suspect my inability to fully clean the joint is fouling the bond.

I thought about that... may give it a try.

The upper hinge spun its lower bushing... tried retroactive loctite but it won't bite to the smooth metal of the hinge and only seems to last a few days. Guess I get to redo this job yet another time in the future...