Rembrant

According to other pics I've looked it, it appears to be correct. He said it was a floor shift. That's the end of the transmission still bolted to it, ya? Is there a gasket between the trans and t-case? If I can't buy one we have sheets of Garlock at work...

Nice truck. I like that diff cover.

Dropped by the body shop today, and they have my bed panels almost ready for paint. I'm so stoked.

I found this case today for $75. Supposed to get it this weekend or early next week. He says it is out of an '88-'90 that he junked for the engine and transmission. It clearly has the speedo drive as there is a VSS still installed. Does it look like a 1356 to you Jim?

Chris, For what it's worth...these swaybar parts can sometimes be hard to find, so there are a couple things that might help you in your search. The swaybar mounting plates (item #5486) in the drawing are specific to 1980-1986, and they are quite hard to find....mainly because they're quite difficult to remove, at least from a rusty truck or a junkyard truck. in 1987 the mounts became integrated with the cast iron spring seat. The 7/8" swaybars were all the same, so you can use one (and the mounts) from a later truck...up to at least 1994...maybe later. Lots of people have gone to the junkyard and pulled both swaybars from a 90's truck and they swap right into a Bullnose. I bought both front and rear factory swaybars for my 1984 Flareside, but I have so far only installed the rear, and I must say it made a significant improvement all by itself. The rear bars are also all the same, so you can grab one of those out of a 1990's truck as well...but you'd have to modify/adapt the 8.8 axle tube brackets to mount on to the 9" rear diff (which I assume your 1982 has).

Right. But where is the speedo drive connection? Is it in the rear casing half, or in the tail shaft housing?

Yes, but I still need a tail housing with the connection for the speedo cable, etc. I did just check under the truck and confirmed (I think?) that it is indeed a BW1356. The tag is corroded away, but I could see 135 on it, right where the 1356 is supposed to be.

Ahh ok, that makes sense. I was going to make a plan to get back out to the junkyard to get the transfer case out of a brick Bronco, but when I checked some pictures I took it looked like it had a flanged output, and I need a slip yoke.

Do Broncos usually have the same transfer cases as the pickups?

Haha, Gary nothing is spared in the land of rust. That F350 4x4 was broken in two like a dry piece of driftwood, the frame was that bad. haha. I went out for a pair of door conduits for speaker wiring, and a couple parts for the park brake...the little clamp that fastens the two cables to the bottom of the frame, and the spring that goes between the equalizer bar and the cable bracket on the frame. Scored all good parts for $9. That F350 4x4 has a 5.8EFI in it...but I couldn't figure out what year it was (to see if it was the desirable 351w roller block). Where is the certification label usually located on these monster 4 doors? (Rear driver's door wouldn't open btw).

Haven’t posted in this thread in forever, but I also haven’t been to the junkyard in forever, so I thought I’d share some pics from while I was out scrounging for some much needed trinkets today. Check of this beast F350...broken right in two from being picked up... A rotten and rat infested Brick Bronco. Another rotten Bricknose but it did have a really nice interior. It gave up some park brake cable parts that I needed. Plus this aeronose F150...which shows you what 90’s frames look like around here in the off chance somebody catches them before they break in two LOL.

My M5OD-R2 trans came out of what I considered to be light duty F250. It was a 1991 F250 2wd with 302, 5spd, and 3.08 diff. I've told the story before, but the guy was doing a Cummins swap in the truck, so he had the engine and trans for sale...but since the truck was an F250, he had the trans listed for sale as a ZF5. He said people kept messaging him to tell him the trans he had was not a ZF5, so he relisted it as the M5OD, and that is when I found it...only a half a mile away from my office, right here in the industrial park.

Oh, I know this truck from Instagram...cool.

It was my fault...I hit it with the needle scaler and poked a hole in it...not realizing it was corroded as badly as it was. I can live without a speedo, but I do want it to work properly. I'll be getting antique plates for this thing, so that will require a test drive by the mechanic...so I'll need it working regardless.

Haha...no way am I bringing the fenders in to the body shop yet. Painting is insanely expensive here...it's costing a fortune to do only what I brought them. To paint a truck like a Flareside here, assuming minimal body work is required, and the owner removes and installs some parts, costs around $8000...and then there's $1200 tax on top of that...lol. So anyway, they're just doing a couple panels for now. If I decide to get the rest done later, the truck will be losing the two-tone and will end up solid dark blue.

The Precision brand kit I ordered has them. They are the opposite factory so they aren't seen unless you look for them. The Fairchild kit I installed has the holes also, but not on the face of the seal like above. My doors are still a bit stiff to close a year later, but they're better than they were. I need to adjust the lip/seam on the lower A-pillar...that's where mine is tight. Might be because of my aftermarket door...not sure.

Awesome, thanks Jim. I didn't know the drive gear was that easy to change out...I'm not as concerned now. The t-case in the truck has a slip-yoke. The front mounting flange of the t-case is corroded badly (there's actually a hole in it...lol) so I need to swap it out for that reason anyway, but my main concern is to get the speedo drive. The t-case works fine...I tried it out on the weekend. It surprised me a bit at just how short the throw of the shifter was...I was having trouble finding the t-case gears until I realized that all 4 positions were in about an inch of lever movement. It's all good, I just want one that fits right back in the same place and utilizes the same shifter, etc.

Haha, NO. I could have lived with the "4x4", but the shooting stars had to go!

Ya, I figured about the same but wanted to ask just in case. I'll pick up some good compound as I need to do the rest of the truck anyway. I'll be repainting it (I think) and it won't be two tone anymore.

Hello again gents, Not really a Bullnose question, but the same information should apply regardless. The 1995 F150 chassis/driveline under my 1980 has a BW1356 transfer case? I need to swap in (I assume) a 1988-1991 BW1356 transfer case with the speedo drive in the tail shaft. They're relatively easy to find here...I know a couple guys that have at least a couple each. So the question is...by the time the late 80's rolled around...and the F150's all had 8.8 rear diffs, they were almost always 3.08 or 3.55 geared. Would the transfer case use the same speedometer drive gear for each diff option (and just change the cable's driven gear for the different ratios)? Or would there be a different drive gear in each situation? The reason I ask is that I was reading about the M5OD trannies, and they part number or engineering number on the side of the trans refers to a specific rear diff gearing. The one in my 1984 indicates that it was designed for use with 2.73-3.08 differentials. I assumed that only meant that this is what the speedo drive gear was set-up for. Any comments from the experts? If I'm going to pick up a used transfer case, I'm just curious if I should look for one from a 3.55 geared truck, or does it even matter?

Gentlemen, Figured I'd ask out in the open to get more suggestions, but the story here is that I removed a bunch of decals from this old 1980 F150, and I'm wondering what I can do lighten or possibly remove the imprint they left behind? The paint is single stage, and probably 30 years old. Can the decal areas be removed or lessoned with rubbing compound or wet sanding? I do have a buffer and various pads. Before example... And after...

Thanks Jim. I'll check local availability and see what I can come up with.

Ok, cool. Do I need to buy a special applicator/gun to dispense this stuff? So I'd tamp the edges down and grind smooth to bare metal, and then apply the panel bonder right on top of that? Then what?...add in the steps please...with sand paper/grits, etc.

Welcome aboard!

I know, right? I might have to get some 50lb bags of sand to throw in the back (and maybe the front...lol).