Rembrant

Looks like the float was the culprit. I don’t know how the temperature affected it, but the Amazon carb had a plastic float in it. I swapped in the metal float (which had more heft to it) from the original carb that was in the truck (an original YF that had been reman by Autoline p/n C6077.) works great again, and no leaks. Carb is cold to the touch even when up to operating temp. Thanks guys for listening to me whine LOL.

Jim, That exhaust valve flapper was still intact and in good condition when I installed the manifolds, or at least it appeared to be. It has a counterweight on it to close it (on top of the thermostatic spring that was there), so I did have it tied in the closed position. The only thing between the carb and manifold is a non-EGR aluminum spacer. The trucks never got the feedback carbs up here, but the earlier Bullnose 300's all seem to have EGR systems, while later on they just had spacers like this one (1986). I was thinking back to the fuel pump...the one I installed was a higher pressure one, but not that high...and even if that was an issue, it should be cold or hot. Googling around a bit I did find one guy that installed a thicker gasket somewhere for this same reason, and cured it. The temp gauge on the truck stays pretty low, so I don't know what temperature it is actually running at.

Just the factory style gasket, which is an insulated one, but it just covers the perimeter of the opening in the exhaust manifold. I'm going to try and flip the exhaust the flap the other way and see what happens. I checked some pictures and videos of 300 exhaust manifolds, and it looks like mine is tied closed.

Just the factory style gasket, which is an insulated one, but it just covers the perimeter of the opening in the exhaust manifold. I'm going to try and flip the exhaust the flap the other way and see what happens.

I figured if I did not get any answers I would pull the cap and I would have seen it was gutted. So I will swap my electric part onto the new carb. UPS has the carb showing up around the 25th Thanks Dave ---- So this Amazon YF has been working well for the short little bursts that I've actually been able to run the truck. However, now that I'm able to drive the truck a little bit I am having a problem. It works great when it is cold (choke is tied wide open), but once the engine gets up to temperature the carb starts leaking terribly. I took it all apart thinking the float was stuck, or needle valve stuck, but it was all clean as a whistle. Put it all back together, and again it ran just fine while it was cold...but once it warmed up it started leaking terribly again. This time when I pulled back up to my garage, it was leaking and I could hear the gas sizzling...on the intake and probably some of the exhaust manifold. It got me thinking though...am I overheating the carb somehow? There is an valve in the exhaust manifold for heating the intake manifold...and I thought I tied it shut, but maybe I tied it wide open? Any thoughts from the experts? If it was a float or needle valve or fuel pressure issue, it wouldn't matter if it was warmed up or not, would it?

Yup. I have mine wired in this way since I removed the combination valve. You could wire them both in if you wanted to. The float switch in the new master has 3 wires...a common, and then N/O and N/C.

The shop that painted my '84 302 painted it dark blue...and it was supposed to be the Ford dark blue, but I'm not 100% sure what it is...it might be a Chevy blue, or the earlier Ford blue. I had to touch up a small spot after a couple years, and the Ford dark blue was too dark. They left the new timing cover bare aluminum, and I like it like that.

I don't know about the lacquer thinner, but it would probably ruin the tag. It doesn't really matter at this point...it is obviously an M5OD-R2. The tag helps identify what year it is, and what rear diff the speedo cable drive was geared for (by 1988 when the M5OD-R2 was introduced, the F150 usually had a 3.08 or 3.55 rear diff). The M5OD was basically the same from 1988-1996. In 1992 the speedo cable drive went away...so if you have a working cable speedometer, then that trans is definitely a 1988-1991 unit, which narrows it way down. The reverse gear ratio changed at some point between 1988-1996, and something was upgraded in 1995 or 1996...the shift forks went from aluminum to cast iron or something like that. The floor hump/tunnel cover for the M5OD-R2 was a couple inches higher than the 1980-1986 manual trans tunnels covers.

Right. Whoever installed the 5spd did not install an M5OD-R2 tunnel cover either...looks like they just cut the floor. That bolt where the shifter attaches is supposed to be a bit below the sheet metal. I assume that is why they did not install the 5spd shifter boot...it is too short without the 5spd tunnel cover. The taller Ranger boot was probably swapped in as an after thought. If the tag is still on your trans, here is where it will be...see the white tag on the left hand side, almost in the middle? Up close the M5OD-R2 tag will look like this:

That's awesome Ron, more pics soon??? I just got my old 1980 titled in my name. The truck was brought into Nova Scotia in 2007, and had never been registered, inspected, or plated here. It has been off the road for a solid 10 years, it's almost like "importing" a new vehicle...lol. I discovered that getting them registered as an antique is MUCH easier than a regular inspection and registration.

I know I'm late, but I used 1/8" stainless rivets and had little squares of sheet metal pre-cut to act as washers so the "squish" of the rivets didn't deform the plastic. They worked great.

I can't tell you what it is, but I can tell you what it isn't. I'd have to lean on Shaun for this one...he's probably right on the Ranger part, but it is not an M5OD-R2 shifter boot (not 1988-1996, at least). You probably do have an M5OD trans, but I believe the Ranger sticks mount to the shifter stubs the same, so I'm sure they could be swapped around. If you get a chance, look at the data tag on the driver's side of your transmission so we can confirm 100% what it is you've got there. I know of at least one guy that swapped a 1997-up F150 M5OD into a Bullnose with a SBF, as they were commonly behind the 3.8V6, which replaced the inline 300 in 1997. M5OD-R2 Shifter boot from 1988-1996, possibly even later:

Made good progress again today. I pulled the whole exhaust and welded every seam that I could, and installed a new hanger at the crossmember/end of muffler. It is much better now! New gas tank straps installed as well as the fuel filler neck and fuel filler door/assembly. Then of course the floor...here she is! I still have some more bolts to do, but that’s it until next weekend. I have to travel up north this week with work.

No worries gents I already installed the new straps and tightened them down. Oddly, the front strap ended up about 3/4” from the crossmember, and the rear strap a good 3” maybe 4”, but they’re tight and not going anywhere. That’s the main thing. Thanks all.

Gents, On your side mount fuel tanks, how far are the straps from touching the bottom of the crossmembers? 1”? 3”? I had a set of new 19gal tank straps that I modified to fit a swb 16gal tank, but they ended up being too long. So I bought new swb 16gal tank straps and they seem like they are way too short. I’m going to make new bolts with 3/8” threaded rod...I guess, but just curious how long they’re supposed to be?

Awesome, thanks guys. That explains why I don’t have it on my ‘84, and why it wasn’t connected to anything on this truck (there was no trans or t case in it when I bought it). So how did it work then? It just went to ground when 4x4 was engaged? I’ll have to check behind the instrument cluster for wiring as the truck has no 4x4 indicator light...just a black blank where the light would be. The BW1356 trans case in the truck now I assume has a two wire 4x4 switch? I’ll have to investigate this further to see if this truck will ever have a 4x4 light...it may not lol.

Dave, My ‘84 Flareside has a ground in the rear harness but it is only tied to the licence plate lamp, nothing else. The taillights were grounded only to the bed, through the mounting brackets. Do any of you know what this wire might have been for on the 1980? It enters the firewall through a large rubber grommet just below the mounting studs for the park brake bracket/assembly. It is light blue and goes up behind the fuse box. There is a plug just outside the firewall and the wire is then green (I think). It has the fabric sheathing on it like the wire for the temp sensor and oil pressure sensor. It did have a single push on plug on the end of it down under the cab. Anybody know what it is for off hand?

Good day gents! Happy Saturday or for Gary happy 6th Saturday! I’m hoping to install the new bed wood floor tomorrow so I’m trying to get a bunch of jobs completed today that are much easier with no bed floor in the way ha! So this truck...which kinda came in pieces if you remember, had no tail lights and what was left of the rear harness was trash. So I made a new harness today with Belden cable and installed a junction box on the rearmost crossmember. So input is from the cab, and three outputs to the 2 rear tail lights and the plate light. I know it looks a little messy, but I’m going to make a diagram to throw in the file folder (and glovebox) for the next guy. That’s a new plate bracket from Reamer and a NOS lamp assembly from EBay. I found a new Grote bulb socket and pigtail at a local truck shop this morning. Interesting...this ‘80 had no ground wire at all to the rear end. My ‘84 has a ground wire to the rear end, but only to the plate light. I think in 85 or 86 they added ground wires for the tail lights. (I used stainless M6 screws to mount my junction box, but they are threaded into the frame so they double as ground lugs...one in the box and one out of the box in case I get ambitious enough to run a dedicated ground wire from up front). Anyway, another step towards being a functional truck...lol

Ahh, ok, understood. I had a hiccup with mine when I first received it (faulty unit) but AEM sent me a brand new one pronto, and I had it within a few days. Mine has been reading accurately all along, so I really have no complaints with it. I probably don't even need the thing, but I like having it there just to confirm that all is well.

I'm running the AEM 30-4110 in my 1984 and I've been happy with it. Mine seems to be pretty accurate, so I have no complaints with it. Maybe the accuracy depends on the application or installation, I don't know. I've got mine very close to the engine...right at the limit.

Uh oh...this IS concerning... Haha just kidding Gary, this showed up in my IG news feed and it made me chuckle.

Finally back to working on the old 80 Flareside again! I had a friend up the road mill the grooves in my new oak boards, and just got them test fitted into the truck yesterday. After that I installed my newly fabricated crossmembers (3x) that I made with 2x1"x 1/8" channel...I little heavier than the original stuff, but closest fit I could find. Today's project is to get the 8 bed mounting holes cut, and the washers counter sunk a bit (Forstner bit). This is a real pain, because you have to get the bed all centered and squared away, and then come up from the bottom to mark the holes...through the frame, and then through the wood blocks which are 2.5" thick...and I'm using homemade wood blocks, so there's no holes in them currently. Anyway...it will be a day of getting in and out from under the truck about 500 times...lol. I might try using a piece of 1/2" copper pipe to put up through the frame and wood blocks to score the bottoms of the oak boards.

Two things catch my eye Scott! Green grass on the ground at the junkyard?? Ours is gravel and muck! lol. On the 07/86 F150 with the badge...that fender looks like it's in nice condition...bottom not rotted out like they all are around here. I love junkyard strolls!

Sounds belt related, no? Have you tried removing the belts one at a time to see if the noise goes away?

As for the valve covers, I just blasted and painted the originals on my 302. There are cheap replacements out there though if you choose to go that route. For the gaskets I went with the Fel-Pro Perma Dry Plus 1pc rubber gaskets and have been very happy with them compared to the original cork gaskets. PS: I noticed that you still have the original valve cover bolts with the little posts on top. You can buy replacement plug wire holders that fit on these almost identical to the originals (in case you want to run the wires like they were originally).