Rembrant

You've more or less already answered all of my questions. I'm starting up a newly rebuilt engine here, and a used 4R70W that I installed. I was wondering what I needed to do with the trans/controller before starting the engine, and it sounds like the wise thing to do is to go through the setup. This truck is just a low rpm cruiser, so all I need is the stock trans map. That will be fine for me. I guess I'll do the TPS setup, and then after I get it started and warmed up I'll probably have to reset the TPS again after I finish tuning the carb and setting the idle?

This is great news and information, thank you! I'll be wiring up the rest of my Quick4 this weekend. All of the connections to the transmission have been completed, but I need to do the TPS and input power, etc. Interesting on the tach...I'll be coming directly off the coil, but I see the resistors came with the kit also. Thanks so much for sharing this info.

Bigger text in case it was too small to read above... retromanufacturing We’re so excited to announce that the Dallas radio is now available for pre-order on our website! The Dallas will ship in April, and all pre-orders will receive a FREE pack of Vintage Overlays (A $19.99 Value). Head over to the link in our bio and secure one today! *All orders with pre-ordered items are estimated to ship April 7-14 The RetroSound® Dallas Radio Face is the latest officially licensed Ford Radio Face by Retro Manufacturing, designed to replicate the original factory radio in 1985-86 Ford F-Series trucks and 1985-86 Ford Broncos. Dallas's subtle and straightforward design features replica black plastic knobs, rounded push-buttons, and a thin seek bar, finished in matte black with the official Ford logo for added authenticity. The Dallas mounts directly into the factory opening in these vehicles with the included mounting kit and also includes a factory specific wiring harness for an easy installation and OEM appearance.

Hey again gents, I just saw this new release from Retromanufacturing. An aftermarket radio to fit the 1985-1986 dash bezels. This is very cool! Link below: https://www.retromanufacturing.com/collections/vehicle-search/products/1985-86-ford-f-series-dallas-radio?variant=42329067716764

Oh well Gary, it was worth a look;). I always look for those Sun Distributor machines...I've always wanted one, but I have no space and even less need for one lol. Oh well. This dealership looked like they had mostly more modern stuff, but you never know.

Gents, This popped up in my email today because I get updates from BidSpotter.com. Complete Ford Service Center equipment auction. (Looks like it's a couple hours from you Gary?). https://www.bidspotter.com/en-us/auction-catalogues/investment-recovery-services/catalogue-id-bscinv10229/search-filter?CategoryCode=ATV If any of you like to bid on equipment auctions for the heck of it I figured I'd pass it along. There's about 40 boxes of Ford Rotunda tools there... https://www.bidspotter.com/en-us/auction-catalogues/investment-recovery-services/catalogue-id-bscinv10229/lot-f649ccb1-08e3-4927-b201-afaf0160e770 Lots of hoists and tire changers, etc, etc. Must be some books and documentation there somewhere Gary if there's anything you're trying to find;).

I like your idea of trying to mount a button in the shifter handle. That would be cool. I bought a B&M Shifter handle with a button for the exact same reason with my 4R70W swap, and the darn thing is right in a spot where my leg will be hitting it all the time! DOH. The only way to not have this happen is to turn the knob/handle on an angle and while that is fine I don't know if I can live with it like that lol. My OCD will not deal well with this. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with for a solution.

I have to agree on the pneumatic impact gun...I hardly use mine anymore unless I need a little extra grunt that my cordless/electric impact can't do. Pulling the hose out seems like such a hassle now lol. To be honest, I don't even use the compressor all that much anymore for anything, but it might have more to do with the type of work I've been doing too.

Yes, I save everything in a big file for that reason. I think the back side of the belt contacts the tensioner regardless, so those numbers will be gone quickly.

Jim, good question on the idler. That was a lesson I learned the hard way, I guess lol. It is the factory idler wheel when the belt was in the stock location. See below from when I hauled this old 302 home. It's a belt routing that I believe is specific to the 1994-1996 pickups with SBF. Problem was...I deleted the smog pump below the alternator with no provisions for ever being able to reinstall it...in other words, I cut the mounting tabs off and smoothed them out on the big aluminum bracket. Lots of people have eliminated factory smog pumps, I didn't think a thing of it at the time. Unfortunately, it rendered the belt tensioner useless...it just rotated to the full stop. After buying several belts to try and make it work (it still didn't work), I scrounged a new aluminum mounting bracket from a junked F150 out in the woods here, and I was just about ready to order an idler pulley to replace the smog pump when I found a thread on FTE with the same issue I had. A guy posted up a picture of how he had been running his 351w for the past decade, and I gave it a try with my little 302, picture below: It seems like it will work just fine, but I haven't run the engine yet so the jury is still out. If it works on a 351w, it should surely work on a 302, but we will see. I'm now stuck with the factory idler wheel just sitting out in the open. If everything works OK, I will probably remove it and just stick a stainless button head bolt in it's place.

Haha, thanks Dave! Good to see all the east coasters up and at 'em so early! I am just finishing my 2nd large cup of coffee while I organize my work bench lol. With my back issues today, I can't do much...maybe run some errands and do some "bench top" work if I can.

Thanks Jim! I get a bit overwhelmed with it sometimes, but I just make it a point to try to do at least one thing. If that means connecting only ONE wire, then that's what it is lol. I honestly never intended to get into this much work, but here I am. There were times when I wanted to abandon the whole thing, but couldn't do that either. I worry about it not working properly...I have done so many things to it I start to wonder what parts or sections are not going to work lol. I don't think I have it in me to pull the engine or transmission again lol. As I said, I really didn't mean to get into it this far. The things I get myself into.

In my brief communication with them a couple days ago, it was mentioned that they used to monitor the temp at the "cold side" of the radiator, but they moved to the hot side, or radiator inlet. After reading a bit more on the topic, I understand it better and see why it is better to read the temp at the hot side (inlet) of the radiator. https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/core-temperature My 195F thermostat will only just crack open at 195F, and wouldn't be fully wide open until somewhere between 205F and 215F (according to the above article). So, Derale's recommendation of setting it at 10F above the thermostat opening temp should theoretically keep the thermostat at a steady state of 50% open. I think I mentioned that I got the harness pulled through the firewall last week. Here's what it looks like... I'm looking forward to it but I'm not looking forward to it if that makes any sense lol. I hurt my back again earlier this week so I'm hobbling around like an old goblin and will be pretty much useless without being able to bend over under the hood and under the dash, but anyway. I'll try to find some easy tasks to do. My new NVU gauges showed up also. I got the Woodward Black vintage series, and I bought a new fuel tank float/sender from them as well. Neat that they have the speedometer option in KM/hr, although this old truck will never get to 140 km/hr, let alone 240 km/hr lol. Still, it will be nice to have accurate gauges. So much wiring...only thing worse would be installing EFI on top of all this. I have an electronic trans, electric radiator fans and electric fuel pump, DSII ignition, etc. I'm now seeing why people love those 1-wire GM distributors so much!

Very VERY cool. Thank you for sharing. I love Scouts and follow several International pages/groups on IG and Facebook. My wife actually wants one of these and has been bugging me to get one as my next classic. Problem is, they're quite rare now, and they rusted out even worse than Jeeps lol, so finding a nice one is tough, and expensive. This one is Gorgeous though. Love it just the way it is.

FYI all...love reading everybody's stories. Great stuff, and thanks for sharing.

Meet and meat sound the same to us in English too! LOL. I'm only in Montreal for a day and a half for meetings. Arriving late Monday the 20th, and leaving again on Wednesday the 22nd. My schedule is not 100% confirmed yet but I will let you know if I have some time. I have driven the Trans Labrador Highway a couple times. starting in Quebec. It's very interesting if you're into seeing what it looks like to be in the middle of nowhere;). Manic-5 is really something to see...not that there's much reason to ever drive by it LOL. And coastal Quebec is beautiful in the summer. There are times when you feel like you're on the PCH in California! I took the picture below somewhere near Saint-Maxime-du-Mont-Louis!

Yes, it was pretty straight forward. Like you, I had my 1984 with factory hydraulic clutch at the same time so I had it close by to measure and copy. There's not much room for that master cylinder...it's almost hard against the brake booster, so the side to side measurement is almost a no-brainer. The vertical position is all you really need to study. I bought a hole saw the same size as the master cylinder housing...I think around 1.25" or something like that. It was readily available. On both trucks with the M5R2 swaps, I ordered new clutch slave cylinders and hydraulic lines for a 1991 F150, and used clutch master cylinders from 1984. The 1984-1986 master cylinder is the same as the 1987-up ones, but the studs are in different positions. Otherwise they are identical. Good idea to brace the firewall for the clutch master. For my 1984 I installed a brace from Terrapin, but they are no longer making them. I believe JBG is the only company offering them currently. For the 1980 swap, I just made a little brace myself and it worked fine. I bought new seal kits for both M5R2's...they were cheap-ish and easy to install. They're known for leaking at the rubber plugs on the top cover. I replaced them with the little metal plugs, but I later had an issue with trans fluid coming out of the speedometer cable in the dash LOL. The shifter bushing kits made a BIG difference as well. PS: You can buy new plug/pigtails for the M5R2 reverse switch FYI. They're cheap if you need one. Did you get the correct crossmember to go with the M5R2 as well? I'm a big fan of this transmission and swapping it into Bullnoses. I had great luck with mine. The first one was quite "notchy" shifting 1-2-3, but it got noticeably better as it warmed up. It was used after all, with probably 100,000 miles on it...so I can't complain. That's only what the guy told me...it could have had 300,000 miles on it for all that I know. Another thing I did was I welded an NP435 4spd shifter stick on to an old M5R2 shifter stub I had. It wasn't that I was crazy about keeping the truck period correct lol, it was just something to do.

Oh...swap in an 11" clutch when you do the 5spd swap also. That is what came with the 5spds. Your stock clutch is probably a 10"? The flywheel should be drilled for both...at least my factory flywheel was in 1984. The 10" should work fine, but if you're swapping the clutch anyway, why not?

Cool! When I did my first M5R2 swap, my trans also came out of a 2wd F250, but a 1991. The ID on mine was F1TA-HB, so the same as yours, with the same speedo drive gear. Luckily when I did mine, my 1984 F150 already had a 3.08 differential, so my speedometer even stayed correct after the swap. I later did an M5R2 swap...sort of...I put a 1980 body on a 1995 chassis with an M5R2, so I went through the process of adding the hydraulic master cylinder, etc.

Yes. The 157 tooth flywheel will not work with the M5R2. Yes. For a 2wd, you'll want a 1988-1991 M5R2 if you can find one. The 1992-1996 M5R2 will fit and work just fine, but 1991 was the last year for the cable driven speedometer.

In my brief communication with them a couple days ago, it was mentioned that they used to monitor the temp at the "cold side" of the radiator, but they moved to the hot side, or radiator inlet. After reading a bit more on the topic, I understand it better and see why it is better to read the temp at the hot side (inlet) of the radiator. https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/core-temperature My 195F thermostat will only just crack open at 195F, and wouldn't be fully wide open until somewhere between 205F and 215F (according to the above article). So, Derale's recommendation of setting it at 10F above the thermostat opening temp should theoretically keep the thermostat at a steady state of 50% open.

Thanks Jim! Good points. I’ll aim for the 205F as my set point. I’m running a big 3-row Champion rad which should cool my little 302 with relative ease.

I have some updates...one of which is a major milestone for me: I finally got my Painless full vehicle harness pulled through the cab and bolted in the fuse box last night. The wires are all still loose, but the fuse box is attached and I can start organizing things. I made a bit of a mistake buying the harness that I did. I bought the generic "hotrod" key-in-dash harness, assuming it was the correct one for me. I didn't realize until I started reading the instructions last night that painless actually makes a Hotrod Pickup harness as well. They're basically the same thing, it's just that the car full harness has the tail section wires running in the interior, and the truck harness has the tail section wiring going through the firewall. I know it doesn't seem like much, but they have the harness pre-made in sections, so I'll have to redo some of my "car" harness to convert it into a truck harness. Not a big deal really. I've finished installing the Painless Duraspark II harness (mostly). It's finished on the engine/coil/distributor/ignition module end, but needs to be finished up on the firewall end. I went and bought another coil that was confirmed to be for a ballast resistor system, and had the correct input/output numbers to help relax my brain LOL. I mounted the ballast resistor on the aluminum frame above the power steering pump. Next up is the Derale fan controller. I read about this on here...I think Scott mentioned it a while ago, but it really appealed to me. I much prefer the PWM control over hard on/off control. One thing bugs me a bit about it though...and I've been emailing them about it this week. The temp sensor attaches to the upper radiator tank with a strong 3M adhesive pad. That in itself is fine, but I asked the question: What happens if I need to remove my radiator for any kind of service. Their recommendation is to buy a new temp sensor and splice it in. I think I'll just add a connector plug now during installation instead. It comes preset to 180F, and I'm running a 195F thermostat, so I asked about that also. They recommend I run the controller 10F above my t-stat temp, so 205F. I can only adjust the set point with the unit all installed and powered up, which is fine, but 205F seems high to me...maybe it just seems that way, I don't know, but I'll have to play around with it. I think I'll set it a little cooler to start. Any thoughts from the electric fan crowd? https://derale.com/product-footer/electric-fans/fan-controllers/pwm-controller/16797-detail

It sure does go fast! I just turned 51 last week. Married almost 25 years now. No kids, but have two Basset Hounds and a garage full of old Ford junk lol. Oh well, there are worse things to be addicted to. I'm going to Quebec in a few weeks for meetings (Montreal of course). Looking forward to hitting Schwartz's or Dunn's? For a smoked meat sandwich. I've been to Montreal many times, but I really enjoy the Gaspe Peninsula. It's very pretty out there. I have driven through a few times to Matane to catch the ferry to Baie-Comeau or Godbout. I have to travel up there with work sometimes, either to Port Cartier, or waaaay up to Fermont QC, and Lab City. I don't even have a Bullnose anymore, like Gary lets me still hang out and I prefer the crowd here anyway;).

You were scrolling the U-Haul surplus today I see! Some decent finds.