Rembrant

Ahh, OK, my bad. I thought it was one of these two bottom bolts which look to be the ones that thread into the timing cover and not the block.

But that's not the same bolt that you pointed to in your original picture, is it?

The ProComp one shows what is basically nuts welded on the backside. I guess one could do that easy enough for a repair also. Once it is removed you could use the water pump as a template, and weld a hex nut on the backside, as long as you made sure it didn't interfere with anything.

If you're not comfortable with a Heli-Coil repair, you can always buy a new timing cover. They're reasonably priced imho. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdm-pce265-1052?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAzeSdBhC4ARIsACj36uEhGcdSwihqnOIK257Lso9E-z09BENmB6RYUDqRR8AuABqAjlkTdXQaAhhrEALw_wcB https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ses-5-65-04-201 Going by your picture, it certainly looks like one of the lower timing cover bolts. I've used Keenserts for thread repair in the past and I really like these, but I have only used them in aluminum, not steel. A company I used to work for used them a lot on new aluminum parts as well.

Funny, but that's exactly how I bought the M5OD for my first swap. The seller had it listed as a ZF5, but I recognized it as the M5OD that I was looking for. The issue was, the guy pulled the engine and trans from a 1991 F250 2wd, and he didn't know that an F250 could have an M5OD, so he assumed it was a ZF5. Anyway...that story had a happy ending I guess. The SBF 4x4 ZF5's are really hard to find, and a lot of the times they've been worked hard and are well worn. I'm a big fan of the M5OD, but it's not a heavy duty trans, and was never offered behind the 351w (although it will certainly fit just fine). It's a nice shifting transmission, and the gear spreads are nice, and they're easy to find. The downside is that the M5OD has a bad reputation for being a "weak" transmission. I personally don't think they're as weak as everybody says they are, but it is clearly a 1/2 ton transmission (and did make it into a few light duty 3/4 ton trucks). Problem is...the oldest M5OD's are now closing in on 35 years old, and they're well worn....lifted trucks with big tires and tall gears make life very hard for a tired M5OD. I know guys that plowed snow with M5OD trucks, but that was back in the 90's when they were still fairly new. I had two M5OD's, and they worked well for me, but I didn't really abuse them either. I'm just a cruiser;). I don't think I'd put and old one in a 351w F350 4x4 that might see any abuse, or heavy hauling, or towing, etc. If it's just going to be cruising and hauling it's own weight, then it would be fine. My 2 cents worth;).

Oh interesting, I didn’t know they were different. The aftermarket ones all fit both don’t they? I installed the big one from Terrapin in my ‘84, and removed the small one that was in it. By the time I did the 1980 I just made the small one.

I went through this a few years ago. Nice thing is that other than the diagonal bolt pattern, they're identical. The embossed firewall only showed up in 1983, so an earlier truck it will just be smooth. I installed one in a 1980 cab. Drilled the holes and it worked just fine. I basically made a homemade small bracket:

Welcome aboard. I think an F250 with a 302 and an AOD is a bit uncommon, eh Gary? They seem to be more common in the later years...1985-up, but not so much in the earlier trucks. Maybe it's just me and I simply haven't seen enough of them;). In any case, welcome. I love seeing these PNW trucks that are so well intact, even after a long hard life.

Here are some pics zoomed in... This is the little lever on the end of the 1984-1986 hydraulic clutch pedal set. Notice how it has a pin on the end of it, and the pin is worn (they all get like this after a while). Here's a close up. You could weld up the old pin, or drill it out and weld a new pin in place. A small "hitch pin" goes through the end of it. Here's a picture of a new clutch master cylinder kit. The hole in the pushrod goes on that pin above: Here's a picture of the old manual linkage clutch pedal assembly. The little lever has a hole in the end of it instead of a pin: I'm sure you could make one or the other work in the opposite setup if you don't mind some fabrication work, but if you can find the right 84-86 pedal setup it bolts right in, in just a few minutes.

The sets below in these Ebay auctions are from a 1984-1986 hydraulic clutch Bullnose. https://www.ebay.com/itm/354407824270?fits=Year%3A1986%7CModel%3AF-150%7CMake%3AFord&hash=item52845a3b8e:g:154AAOSwGSZjfdYB&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4KrbBVN2YLksEtlnsb3nWfBeql%2B1zwwZTAoQFwMO8zyaR5hmK1iLarQH%2B7qJtDFJMvr9kiVZqQL44z0vTQHQZiffFiZ02qp4hOgUTOpPQ3Q85DUKnapF%2FJVPlgimII6wSnfE1yTrsd0xW3rz0o%2B24N0IeffLqnLIDwAuIc3mNkKfagsax%2FqJ9bBup%2BUywMnBtQoI4NPazRR07OcrPO4sYez9%2B5TTPWOpb53QxnmKoBH9WRKE8509wpCMhhTbanybtbBCoT5kYqkfsyMIv4X5AzcEqYr5XQ1SM0nqrwBc%2BU7O%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5j55-evYQ https://www.ebay.com/itm/393170354011?fits=Year%3A1986%7CModel%3AF-150%7CMake%3AFord&hash=item5b8ac77f5b:g:QIsAAOSw3e9gP6-z&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsEexHD11f3MzlmLU17qjkOkNPF0CUhIK9BeOyE%2FoVMBTvoDXnX6LQaW%2BAih80ZdRuBd8P4IMMXCu2JCtIrhtXTYzfuOT7ISesXjOqiurDAODgMAG1ZRRUPUFFdk4Ep8vX43VcW79dGKvEnQKiTvz6nAABEETv3JAWNXjQvrFocQRUil5kVgkmcTYP2DIWRqLyB2m6Q0X6z0qKaZMFlinVFKaMkP1nHU8%2Bb87IDgXzcjy%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5j55-evYQ These sets below are from a 1980-1983 manual linkage clutch Bullnose: https://www.ebay.com/itm/144620531620?epid=1722109383&hash=item21ac0e2fa4:g:PHwAAOSw5cpit9UC&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsAVozIrCTrhOspZ3kaaVQASUEWDYT4ssULZ585Q%2FZDp%2BMuVbz8yBW%2FPQKnLfZcSAULmq6XGF5ZvJvNZSjf9rKbO2qavmSWF%2BWaZOMhPvWiJQfdulTDnHHSqvbQNt4oPkXxtpHGW8rCrWayTAAbxE97XrWgjFOLeC0dWIryCcJNzaY5XoRNwfrRXNE5WIr8CBjYOKRpaYhJn50IX5b%2BQbxuwHGFjyEMQ7sJlGJ%2F8cTu0T%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5j55-evYQ https://www.ebay.com/itm/204200107816?epid=1150208130&hash=item2f8b465f28:g:rRkAAOSwZK9jregx&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsBUtPvehyhJNeVD3dR2a5l1aiTl%2BV8fPtFt4H6LkwKsWsOuE6ftREa7PaLRaYouh3n3AxA5MZs%2FYzf3jRrhuskwFvq0aMMrmv7JJF4aR8O5qAVtHMp3Jf4L05t60Y0JX7QmoGdHCZIyR5Tw1cXICyY5hprqs1eqRgGoTUZjqJn84ypKwzegK%2BYOH4dXA2l18C2CN1CpH1kh%2B5QTQap8DZVJUtWgg0aIh62inKODdHjNB%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5j55-evYQ The aluminum casting might be the same between the two, I'm not sure, but the main shaft is different between the two. On the hydraulic clutch set, there is a small pin on the lever where the pushrod goes for the master cylinder. The cotter pin goes through this pin/post. On the manual clutch set, the pin/post is on the top end of the long rod that goes through the floor to the manual linkage. Does that make sense? I can post a couple pics zoomed in on them to show the difference.

Gary yes, cabs were the same, they just added the little filler panels on the Flareside trucks to cover the big opening. Not sure if they were ever available as a separate part since they were riveted in place and painted with the cab, but they should have been.

Chuck, The Flaresides had little flat filler panels that were riveted in place. They fit into the depressed edges of the cab corners, and they had very slight crease down in the inside that matched the cab. Here's a picture of mine below...these are new pieces I had made up when I had my truck painted. They were riveted in place, but the shop also put seam sealer between them and the cab. Here's a couple other pictures I zoomed in on in case they are any help. I for some reason I didn't take many pictures of these filler panels. When Ford re-released the Flareside in 1992, they used black plastic filler panels on the Flareside trucks, for all paint colors.

Chuck, The Flaresides had little flat filler panels that were riveted in place. They fit into the depressed edges of the cab corners, and they had very slight crease down in the inside that matched the cab. Here's a picture of mine below...these are new pieces I had made up when I had my truck painted. They were riveted in place, but the shop also put seam sealer between them and the cab.

I came across this little Bronco while looking for some other stuff. It's not overly special, but the 5G Dark Caramel paint is a unique color, and it has factory 3.50 limited slip diffs both front and rear. It's technically not a one owner, but the guy did buy it used in 1982, so that's about as close to one owner as you can get. Only 53k original miles. Otherwise the 302 and C6 are unexciting LOL. https://www.hemmings.com/auction/1982-ford-bronco-621671?utm_source=autotempest&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=autotempest_premium_classifieds

I don't think I'd worry too much about that whole area...you can't see it when the truck is all assembled anyway. Weld and then keep pulling and bending to get it all back into shape, and then weld again. Slather the seam sealer on it when you're done, and it'll be fine. I have a set of those clamps that Gary posted above. They've come in handy a few times.

Ya, he replied in my FTE thread and said that with my picture above, looking from that view the rotation is CW. What end view to the manufacturer's reference when stating CW or CCW?

What rotation would this be? The housing shape design tell me it's CW, but the angle of the blades tells me CCW. What would you guys say?

Agreed! I went to bed at 11pm last night and slept until 8am LOL. This is a record for me...I am feeling super rested and re-charged for the beginning of 2023! I normally only get about 6-7 hours of sleep...never 9. Time to get my butt in gear and get stuff done! (In 2023 I mean, not necessarily today LOL)

Ray, There are some local guys here that do just that. They go down to NC and SC and hit the junkyards and grab whatever body panels they can get their hands on....beds, doors, fenders, etc. Gas tanks are another popular item. They'll also grab beds off fairly new trucks as well, like ones that have bad front end damage and have been written off by the insurance companies. I have seen 10 year old F150's in the junkyards here...all rusted out. There is a market for rust free panels in the salty north.

Jim, Thanks for all the Columbo work! That one from Don Brown's looks like it will fit. I pulled mine out, but didn't remove the fan. Can't tell the exact length as half of the motor sits inside a recess in the fan, but as best as I can tell it is 2.75" long, 3.00" OD, with a 1/4" D shaft, and 2.32" stud spacing. I haven't confirmed rotation yet. It spins nice and smooth, and it was working fine so I assume the motor is still in good working order for as much as it will get used. I'm not decided on what to do yet, but I'll check on the shipping of that one from Don Brown's and go from there. Thanks again.

Happy New Year David and crew! Pleasure to know all of you;). I'll probably be in bed by 10pm as usual . Enjoy all.

$500 is a fair price too, but the ad is 15 weeks old...surprising it would last that long. Nice condition southern truck beds can fetch as much as $2500 up here in Canada.

Nice truck!

5spd swaps are getting to be pretty common in the Bullnose trucks, even more so lately with the way fuel prices have been going. I have converted two Bullnose trucks to 5spds, one a 2wd, and one a 4x4. The Ford pickups got 5spds across the board starting in 1988. I believe the ZF5 showed up first in 1987, but only in the F350's, and even then only the diesels I think (maybe also the 460). Swapping a 5spd into a 2wd pickup is easier of course...less hardware to deal with, but the one downside to doing a 2wd swap is that you're more limited to transmission options due to the cable speedo drives. Since the 4x4 cable speedo drives were in the transfer cases, it means more availability for transmission donors (1988-1996).

Thanks Jim! I actually emailed that guy in Florida, but I must have missed that he sold a 12v motor upgrade. Interesting. I guess my issue is...that $72 motor, by the time I pay for shipping, and foreign exchange, and tax, it would cost me about $200, no joke. This is why the $25 12v-6v converter seems like a better idea to me. If I can find a 12v motor that fits, and maybe get it from RockAuto or Amazon for $40-$50 I could live with that, but otherwise I'll get the voltage adapter/reducer and run the 6v motor. In reality, it really won't be run very often... Thanks buddy, I really appreciate your input on this. I'll pull the existing motor and measure it up and report back.