grumpin

https://medford.craigslist.org/cto/d/medford-1982-ford-short-wide-4x4/7442253996.html A lot of money!

Welcome!

Welcome!

Welcome!

Welcome!

Nice! That looks great! Yeah, without the big bumper you’d get right in there!

Nice! Boy, those pictures make me think mounting the reflective strip I just bought won’t be as easy as I thought.

Welcome!

Welcome!

Congrats! Nice!

So I found this video of a tour of an 82 F100, and this link should take you to the point where they pop the hood: Thing is, when I pull the release in the cab, the hood does not pop up like that at all. In fact, it doesn't appear anything happens, so I'm thinking maybe that release mechanism is jammed. I can't even reach my hand into the area under the hood where the handle in the video is. It did work recently. The only thing I can put my hand on is the "box" that can be reached with my right hand through the grill, but I'm thinking that's just the other end of the mechanism that is activated from inside the cab. Any differences in an 86 hood release, or is it the same as in this video? I would try pushing down on the hood then pulling the handle again, if it opens lube the latch.

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Here’s this on the power booster check valve, if that’s what you’re talking about. Not in stock though. Edit: x2 what Gary said! https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1984,f-150,4.9l+300cid+l6,1121432,brake+&+wheel+hub,power+brake+booster+check+valve,1876

I think, heavy on the think part, that it should work. It appears to me the difference in them is it’s temperature range.

Ratdude, your truck has a good return because of the work you do! I bought my Bronco after the time of the cash for clunkers. Like you said prices were low. Paid $2000 for it with a cold start problem that a $75 coil fixed. That’s probably the best buy I made on a vehicle. Gsm, you should go look eh?!

On the driveshafts, my Bronco has that rear short double cardan u joint that it looks like you have. I asked a mechanic I used to use to do the u joints in it and he said he doesn’t do them because when you get one changed in that double cardan you ruin it trying to do the next one. He suggested I get an assembly. They were around $300 when I was looking and there wasn’t any anywhere. I decided to take it to a local driveline specialist. And I’m glad I did. Took it in just after lunch and said I assume it’ll be done tomorrow. Girl behind the counter said it might be done today. She called around 3:30 saying it was done. $115.00, and they painted it! Been great. Now I don’t wrestle with u joints anymore. Take them there. Suburban rear was $65 with a balance, Jeep Liberty my son used to have $45. On the linkage, I don’t know looking at the pictures.

Ok, cool, thanks! Still some available.

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I know, I’ve been amazed at the prices of vehicles that need major work or a project like they’re calling this.

https://bend.craigslist.org/cto/d/redmond-1986-ford-f250-project/7439762613.html Some assembly required!

Yes, it looks good, I still need to take it all the way out the packaging, but it looks good. There is one mounting tab broken off, as described in the post. I joked with a friend that I probably won’t put it on the truck, but I’ll be concours ready if I need it! But yesterday after receiving it I thought it’s not going to do any good stored away. Edit: I probably won’t put it on till it’s warmer.

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Kudos to the seller. This trim piece was packaged extremely well. It was taped to a piece of wood with cardboard protecting the FORD letters.

I like the factory service manuals, but they are getting expensive. Dave Graham has CD’s of the factory manuals which I have for both my Ford’s and I like them. Sometimes I just like paper manuals in front of me. And Gary has a ton of service info on this site!