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If anyone needs it here are the PNs for the 7 volt choke cap for the Holley 4180C: Motorcraft sales number: CM-4433-A Ford PN: E5PZ-9848-B Those are right off the box it is in.

Sounds like they used the best Chineseum on the parts.

You want another one, Packard electric, as in Packard 440 plug wires, now Delco-Packard. When Packard motor company was bought or taken over by Studebaker (one more company Studebaker milked dry) somehow GMs Detroit Electric Company (Delco) ended up with Packard wire and cable. Packard developed Hypalon insulation sometime in the 40s or 50s. I know you are dealing or will be dealing with that wonderful 1950s wiring, cloth covered rubber insulation that crumbles if you look at it too hard. We had a 1955 Patrican, all the chassis wiring had hypalon insulation and was just as pliable as you could want, the outside supplied parts like headlamp sockets, blower motors, had the normal 50s rubber/cloth insulation and had to be handled very carefully so it wouldn't crumble. The Packard chassis and body wiring was color coded and numbered for identification.

That looks like an updated version of mine. I will have to go get it and take pictures.

Clockwise is advance on most Fords (distributor shaft turns counterclockwise) Nipple on the vacuum advance does not need to be capped when setting the timing, but Ford's advance scale on the balancer reads in both directions, from 10° ATDC to 30° BTDC or possibly more. Just be sure you are using the correct part of the scale.

I was trying to find a picture of the 1/2" drive digital torque indicator I have. We went to a metrology seminar outside DC in 2011 beofre I retired. One of the companies that manufactures precision torque calibrators had a very nice booth set up. They had picked up a small digital torque indicator from either Northern Tool or Harbour Freight to show how inaccurate cheap torque wrenches and indicators can be. It backfired, the little unit was extremely accurate, as a result I bought one when we returned to Newport News.

If you stay with breaker points. If you have a Delta Mark 10 breakerless kit, it will work perfectly in a Delco 6 cyl distributor. If not, you will need a ballast resistor. I think GM used a ceramic one for years just like Chrysler See how easy looking up the pan gaskets was? I wonder what is different on the Mahle / Clevite gaskets? On the generator, I think I would stick an alternator on it. Generators and short runs = low battery. When I had my 1958 F100, if I didn't get it out on a good highway run once a week, by the latter part of the second week, particularly in the winter, it really didn't want to start, even with the original 223 6, with the 312 it was worse. Park it with the back end uphill, let it roll and pop the clutch in 2nd.

Look up the pan gaskets and see if they are different. On the flywheel, I thought you were going to change the ring gear anyway. FWIW, 1953-54 and maybe even 1955 were 6 volt and the Powerglide cars got the 235 engine to make up for the serious loss of pep with a Powerglide. As near as I can tell, all 235s are full pressure oiling, so if the rods and troughs get too friendly the troughs can be eliminated.

Nice pile of scrap metal! Glad you finally got it off. How does the flywheel look? As Jim would say "progress is good". If you find that the later pan and the front axle have too close a relationship and you end up using that pan, you will probably have to remove all of the splash lube system for clearance 216 = 3.5 X 3.75, 235 = 3.5625 X 3.9375 but the rod caps on the 235 might clear, but the feed pipe for the jets will need to be cut as I do not believe the feed hole is there (not that you would want to use it anyway).

I would suspect that the crank is probably forged steel. I am pretty sure it is forged steel, no casting lines. Like this one: I believe Ford was the first to seriosly dabble in cast cranks and that was the first Windsor engines (221, 260, 289) The HiPo 289 had a high nodular iron cast crank.

I just sent him an email regarding Darth.

If you have had a chance to go through that article I shared with you, one item he mentions is the oil filter. He suggests going to a remote spin on type with the remote mount where the original bypass filter sat. You could get a remote mount kit for a Ford spin on filter (also same filter fits Roadrunners).

Does this mean drain back would occur when the can fills up entirely or a combination with the can filling up... ? It makes sense for the PCV hose to be higher to allow drain back with or without catch can. You havn't really had fun with a PCV system until you fool with one of the older Chrysler turbo 4 cyl. engines. On the NA carbureted or TBI engines there is either an oil seperator or two connections to the valve cover. Turbo engines use a cast aluminum valve cover with a nipple at what would be the rear of the head. On that nipple is a molded rubber tee with one leg on the nipple, a special PCV valve that seals under manifold pressure and a pipe going to the air filter housing for air in or out. The early turbos had the throttle body before the turbo so the PCV connected there, that combined with the EGR feeding there created a nice mess. With the intruduction of the Shelby designed TurboII system, the throttle body was moved to behind the turbo and the closure line was left in the air filter housing. Less oil in the turbo but you still at 14 psi boost ended up with oil in the air filter housing. In 1991 the system was redesigned again, PCV valve is still in the molded tee and the closure line still goes to the now larger air filter housing. In this is an oil trap with a drain hose to the turbo oil return pipe on the back of the block. It has a check valve with a very light spring so the oil can only flow into the engine through that line. If you can make a centrifugal seperator, air from the valve cover coming in at a tangent with a baffle so the liquid is kept in the bottom. Drain line through a weakly sprung check valve and the PCV valve drawing air from above the baffle. It might need a bit of capacity as it might not drain until the engine is off.

One issue with the 351M, 400 Fords and also the 400 SBC, was heat. All of these engines have "siamesed" cylinders in order to fit the large bore into the block constraints. The Ford engines are (bore first then stroke) 351C 4.0 X 3.5 = 351.8592 ci, 351M is the same, 400 4.0 X 3.98. Chevrolet 400 4.125 X 3.75 = 400.92216 ci was in a block originally designed for the 283 3.875 X 3.0 = 283.0386 ci (265 didn't have an oil filter provision, might have gotten one later). On the shorter stroke 351M the siamesed cylinders didn't seem to be an issue, and even the Ford 400 didn't have a bad heat problem, the Chevrolet 400 possibly had one. Biggest issue with the Ford engines, the 400 was built to replace the 390, which by 1970 was reduced to a 2 barrel only, and was a mid 1950s design and was going to have problems with the upcoming emission requirements, they were set up so lean they barely ran, and the huge ports of the Cleveland heads didn't help. The 351M and 400 were built to share their back of block bolt pattern with the 385 family (429/460) but in a shorter package. This allowed Ford to use the existing 385 family transmission or clutch housings reducing the number of different parts. The unfortunate problem with both the 351M and 400 was the lack of power and horrible fuel economy. Ford spent three years (1980-1982) building trucks with the 400 being the biggest availble engine. It hurt them badly in the towing market after having the 460 available from 1975-1979. Since the new body and chassis introduced for the 1980 model year was toughted as being smaller frontage for better economy, there almost wasn't room for the 460 due to it's size. When I sent Gary a picture of Darth's engine compartment, his first question was "how high up did they have to drop it from to get it in?". He knows now, and I think he understands why I don't want headers on Darth.

That is a hot idle compensator. It opens with high underhood temperatures to lean the idle mixture slightly. They have been on some carbureted engines since the 60s. Carter AFBs had them in the main body between the secondary clusters.

Gary, that happens to be my size.

Maybe with Darth on it.

I do see I remembered the clutch housing design correctly. Is #5 rod broken? I think I have seen a worse looking piece of scrap metal, but it's been a long time. It was a Chevy 292 ci 6 cyl race engine, aluminum rod in #2 cyl broke and almost sawed the block apart at #2.

I'm not going to try to figure out why anyone wants an Escalade, but I sure get thinking a crew cab long box dually is too big while just about any other fill size truck might not be. The crew cab is about 2' shorter, and having the rear fenders stick out proud of the cab is pretty intimidating to most people who go through fast-food or bank drive-thrus. Those are significant differences. My first wife (died the end of 2005) drove Darth with no problems, even drove him with our 5th wheel hooked up.

Damn, I think I may still have the one I took off Darth. I kept all of that incase someone needed it.

Ok, what are the resistors for? You need to be careful mounting anything that gets hot to the inner fenders, they are plastic.

Here is what it looks like:

My wife (who refuses to drive Darth because "it's too big") wants an Escalade, go figure!

My brother-in-law bought a Dodge 1500 with a 360 engine, ordered it with a tow package for pulling his 16' boat. First time he did this, the transmission started slipping on the way back. This is a post 1994 short bed 4WD 1500. Dealer told him he needed a transmission cooler, Robert asked if it was part of the tow package and was informed that it was. Robert pulled out his copy of the order for the truck and showed where trailer tow package was checked. He had to pay for the transmission replacement, but after a lot of back and forth with Chrysler, he was reimbursed. When we were clearing out dad's house in Virginia Beach, my brother Bob had a Tundra, Robert had the Dodge, and I was there with Darth. At one point we were shuffling trucks for loading, Bob said something on the order of move and let a big truck get in. I looked at him and said, "big truck, move that Japanese pretender and let a BIG truck in". Darth sits as high as the 4WD Tundra and Dodge, and he is a 2WD.

Does the clutch housing have a slot below the crank flange so the crank could be removed in situ as the Brits say? I suspect it might as bearing technology in the 40s was frequently poured babbit main and rod bearings. If it does and you can get the inside bolts out with an open end wrench, it might make the clutch/flywheel removal easier. That pan will, in all probobility have oil dipper troughs and spray nozzles, and you will probably need to use it for the truck to clear the front axle. The 235 is probably a full pressure lube model as that was one of the improvements on the 235 car engine. It may still have main and rod caps that use shims to set bearing clearances even with insert bearings. Any machine shop that has been in business a long time probably has a shim kit for a 235. Too bad you couldn't find an early Hydramatic from a pre-63 Chevy 6 cyl truck. it was what the panel delivery 6 cyl models used. One of them and you could put a good highway gear in it due to the 3.84:1 first. Here is a Chevy 235 resource I just found: http://www.devestechnet.com/Home/Project1959235