kramttocs

Hmm, I don't know after trying it out - that gets pretty nested even when using a computer and mouse

See Figure 2. Just to the right of the steering column. Mine was due to powercoating the column but I ran a ground strap from one of the two bolts that holds the steering column to the dash to the metal dash support itself as I was also having issues like this. Quick test would be a wire and alligator clips.

And hopefully this is the last time you have to work down there Looking forward to seeing how the menu looks real world and what the feedback is on it (keep or keep thinking). I'll admit that I am looking at it primarily from the organization standpoint when referring to the FSM. I like seeing the relevant sections of the FSM on various pages but if I am really trying to digest it, I am still the hardcopy kind. So take that into consideration on my input on this.

Ugh on that work As a pleasant side effect of lining the work area/footwell with foil, it did help with the light some. I can get behind that concern. I would say though that if they have made it to the L&M section, seeing the years should be intuitive enough.

Welcome!

This is a tough one. I like the "Literature & Manuals" label. I think this would be my preference: Literature & Manuals --1980 ----FSM -------Section A -------Section B ----EVTM -------Section A -------Section B ----Brochure 1 ----Brochure 2 ----etc --1981 ----FSM -------Section A -------Section B ----EVTM -------Section A -------Section B ----Brochure 1 ----Brochure 2 ----etc The part I don't care for is having child items that are separated by year like "1980 Literature" directly under that L&M menu but then have them also labeled with years under FSM like "1985 Shop Manual". If it's going to be split by years, which FSMs and EVTMs will be unless there is only ever one uploaded, I would have everything that can be placed under a year, done so. That just what works for me from an organization standpoint. The conflict with that is that I am always going to Electrical > EVTM and that makes sense to me but maybe the next person on the site would automatically go to L&M for the EVTM and never think to go to Electrical. So back to the wall, I'd vote to put any document that Ford put out with a single YEAR on it would go under L&M > YEAR as seen in the mockup above.

Glad you joined and can give us some first had knowledge on this great looking, one of a kind truck. As soon as you take care of the New Member details, please tell us what you know or have learned about the truck

That mileage is crazy but that is one good looking truck. The seller gives some background that mentions some of the things you pointed out Dave. Still hard to believe a truck like this, esp with the accessories like spotlight and bed rails, gets put away. Sounds like that was the original owners kind of thing though.

Yes, would have been nice to meet you in person John The wipers are on a shop table along with the rest of my exterior trim I took them off awhile ago because I had small windshield leak that I was going to have looked at. That was postponed months because I figured, no matter how unlikely, I might as well wait until I get the new body mounts put in. I really need to get back to tracking down that leak and getting them put on. Fortunately we outran the rain easily...enough to spend some time walking main street in Pittsburg with some ice cream.

Agreed - it was a lot of fun! Not to mention a peek into a world that I didn't realize the scope of. I'd have to save the trauma was the most beneficial to me although the recovery one showed some devices I'd never knew existed. Particularly the recommendation to use a snatch block alternative with synthetic line or the woven pull strap (kinetic). It's primarily tractors that we get stuck so chains are still used although he said they come in massive WLLs but I could definitely see the need for something in over landing that doesn't pull the frame out from under you if you don't ease into it right. Big Brutus is absolutely incredible in so many ways and I do wish there'd been more time to visit the museum as my daughter was a little too young time we went (last Garagemahal truck show) to appreciate it. Good excuse to hit it the next time we come back from OK. I am glad Chris was receptive to your recommendation and had a plan to address it today. That should also make the projector setup for Gaia work a lot better. I forgot to tell you but when I pulled in there were a couple of guys that I chatted with about our trucks ("some good looking 70's Fords" ) and they were impressed by your winch bumper

Onerous for sure and may be too much to redo what is there already. Because I am actually thinking in reverse of that - so instead of the FSM documents living where they at currently on the various tabs, they would live under the shop manual section. The tab would then be the one to reference the shop manual section(page) and display it. Or I guess it could reference the word doc itself but I like the whole page that way if you add some helpful notes outside the word doc, they would show up on the tabs as well. I know scanning it and organizing it is the hard part but I, and I am sure others, would be happy to send you the manuals I have to complete the years if this daunting task is undertaken. On that subject, how do you scan these in? Do you scan a page at a time or unbind the manuals (or use the 3 ring versions) and stick them in an auto feed scanner?

Subscribed!

Nice work Dane and Gary. I know the main shop manual is split and placed on the relevant pages as tabs but this one doesn't seem so cut and dry. What about a sub menu for the shop manuals in their entirety by year setup like this one is where you have a menu item for each section? Then if beneficial, a section could be linked to either as a hyperlink or a tab showing the same content - like you are currently doing but instead of the speed control section living on a tab on the Speed Control page it would just be referenced from the manual section. That make sense? Of course some (a lot) of the content won't change between some years so it would be dealer's choice on which year to reference...

Much appreciated Bill! I tried the speed control a couple times this evening and there is definitely something wrong. Curious to know if it will diagnose it before I start swapping parts. Looking forward to tomorrow Gary! No idea what to expect but should be fun. My daughter (7) thought it sounded interesting so will have a traveling buddy. You guys lost me awhile back on the bed cover but glad to hear it may be licked now.

Interesting. Link for reference I've seen a couple of the dealer installed lights on the previous gen trucks but the switch that goes on them has a bracket that screws into the dash itself (not the bezel) and looks about as factory as something you'd pick up at your auto parts store. Seen here: I think it'd be neat to remove the print/icon from a Bronco rear defroster switch (mounts in the same spot as a speed control module) and repurpose it for something like this. Whatever you find Rusty, keep us updated

Yes - this will be great for Shaun! Seems like every time I've gone to the jy lately it's been muddy and now the thorns have started to claim ownership of the trucks.

Welcome! Hope to see some photos of the 81 swap

Great on the truck! The numbers are just to designate the circuit for referencing. I believe what you are looking for in your second question is the COMPONENT LOCATION chart that is shown in the text part of each EVTM section. It doesn't deal with the wires themselves but rather connectors, splices, ground points, sensors, etc

This was even after painting and reinstalling the door? I was going to say that the top hinge may be too far in causing the door to be twisted but if the only change between it being flush and not is the weatherstripping then that would lead me back to it being stiff, new rubber. Will have to see what others think. If you can get a photo added that might be helpful.

Does the bottom stick out past the rocker the whole length?

Agreed- that looks excellent

It is latching? You've got adjustment with the hinges (cab and door) as well as the latch. Sounds like it's the door side of the bottom hinge that's out of whack but because they all work together, it could be a combination. New door seals take time to take conform and allow easy door closure so it's not uncommon to have to play with the latch. A couple photos front and rear may help. How is the gap between the door and the B pillar looking? Similar to the drivers side? If you remove the striker do the door and cab body lines match up? Others that do more body work than myself will have some good tips but when doing mine I lined up the body lines and gaps without the striker first. Then I installed the striker so it would latch but not caring about the in-out gap. From the inside of the door, through the latch, I loosened the striker and had someone push on the door until it was lined up. At that point I tightened it down.

That, my friend, is an understatement! Some of which gets suggested on forums? Seems like something out of a Mad Libs. "Today, my truck made me _________" busy happy spend money cry thankful for a second vehicle

That is good news on the fmr but sorry to hear about the leaks. Hopefully it's as simple as snugging them up like you did. Always something on these trucks to keep a person busy:nabble_smiley_beam:

The followup call was a nice touch. I started to add the spacers to mine last night. The second and third row bolts on the driver side came out without issue and without requiring additional hands. The first one (core support) spun on me and I ended up wrapping the jaws of some water pump pliers in electrical tape and holding on to the bottom half while my wife used the ratchet above. While I realize these should be an install once and done type thing, I called S&B to at least mention it and make the suggestion that a nut (without threads) or even a square hole for an extension be added to the bottom half if it was made such that it was lower than the bolt.