Gary Lewis

Thanks, Scott. If mine is loose I'll use your method. As for what I did this afternoon, after getting things sorted with Scotty I made one of three spacers to stack the DS-II modules. (Apparently I don't have the connector nuts I thought I had.) But, I made it out of 3/4" diameter stainless, and my 1/4-20 taps don't like it. I chipped one of my taps, and others just didn't want to go. But I finally got this one done and here's how it fits. Hopefully I'll get the other two done tomorrow. And, Scott, I see the bracket. Looks good!

No prob. And I see Bill beat me to responding to the problem. Trust him. He ran a carb/ignition shop for decades and has forgotten more than I know about these trucks.

Yes, there are no codes to pull 'cause the system has no computer. Things I can think of that would cause a miss at idle include: Blown power valve: There's an enrichment valve in that carb that can blow if there's been a backfire, and it'll leak gas into the intake. If it does that the idle will be very rich and could cause it to run very roughly. Go to Documentation/Fuel Systems/Carbs Chokes & EFI/Holley 4180C to see documentation on that carb which should show the power valve. Bad plug or plug wire(s). I think I'd start here and replace these. Bad cam: This is more difficult to determine, so we should think of the other things first. I'm sure others will come along with more/better ideas soon.

Welcome! Glad you joined! Where in Northern CA? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if I had a town/city. Nice looking truck. I'm always envious of how rust-free the trucks are out there.

I, too, am surprised. And you are right about the funky high tension connector. That's 'cause it had a funky MSD coil/dizzy wire which required a male connector on the coil.

Welcome to the forum. But in the email I just sent you I specifically said "Please go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then start a new thread/topic in that folder about yourself and your truck." That is because I need to you read the guidelines, which are posted on the New Members Start Here folder. We hold everyone to those, so need you to read them. Once you've done that I'll come back to respond to this post. In the interim I'll be thinking about your problem.

Yep, right on both counts. But, by spacer you mean 12A217? Officially known as 12A217 ADAPTER ASSY. - (DISTRIBUTOR BASE)? If so, I think I understand. Thanks!

Minor change of plans on the dizzy, et al. Scotty and I talked this morning. He charges $110 to re-curve a dizzy, and then there's shipping plus the cost of a cap, adapter, rotor, etc. But he charges $200 to the door for a properly-curved new dizzy with cap, rotor, adapter, etc. That sounds like a better deal. So I'm going with a new one and keeping this one. He'll get it curved and shipped out next week along with the plugs, wires, and carb adapter. Meanwhile I'd pulled the dizzy and coil, and was just looking at the coil & bracket and found this. There are two problems there. Can you find them both? HINTS: The 1985 EVTM says specs are 1.13 to 1.23. And the other problem is cosmetic.

Yes, a bad accelerator pump might cause that. As for if you can do it, let's first determine what carb you have. I believe it will be a Motorcraft 2150, but please go hear and verify that's what you have: Documentation/Fuel Systems/Carb's Chokes & EFI/Motorcraft 2150. If that's the one you have then you should be able to rebuild it. That's a pretty simple carb, and the link to the instructions on the Ranger Station plus the instructions from the factory shop manual should be more than enough. But there are also lots of youtubes on it. Having said that, if it is just the accelerator pump, which you can verify by removing the air cleaner and looking down the carb as you open the throttle, then you should be able to replace that w/o even removing the carb.

Well, that guy is smarter than I am. And his memory is better.

It had the white wire, correct? So are you thinking it was just a defective unit? Curious because I had to set my timing back a little from Scott's recommendation as it was really hard to start when hot. Haven't tried putting the timing back and trying another DSII box. I figure it's all due to the engine being new but since I had just dealt with it and you mentioned the hard start... It had the white wire. And it says Motorcraft. But the retard circuit doesn't work. I added the other one and swapped the connections back and forth and the bottom one would just barely let it crank hot, and the top one let it crank easily hot. Maybe it is a Chinese clone of a Motorcraft box? If I were you, I'd try a different box. As for Scott's instructions on timing, my dizzy is headed to him later today, so we'll see what he recommends for this engine. I really like having him set the curve 'cause he knows exactly what the engine is as well as how I'm going to use it. My note to him is as shown below, but he knows that there's gonna be no EGR as it comes in via the upper plenum on an EFI'd 460, and the carb adapter replaces the upper plenum:

That's good to know about the KC Daylighters. I like their look, but would like LED's. As for current, one of the beauties of the 3G's is that they put out as much or more at idle as the 1G's do at full tilt. But that 160 amp rating is if you have the right diodes, and the alternators don't come with 160 amp-capable diodes. Bill and I've upgraded our alternators to the 160 amp-capable diodes, but that doesn't mean that they'll always put out that much current. That would only be in extreme circumstances. I think you'll be fine with a 130 amp alternator and 125 amp fuse. Your belt won't let you get to that much current without serious complaining, so I don't think it'll ever happen.

That's strange. He bought a black positive cable and a red ground cable. But, it is hooked up correctly. It is just the the insulation on the wires is the wrong color. Those electrons gotta be confused.

I think you meant "don't". I'm pretty sure that if I do tell she'll think I'm crazy - no way you'd go back into that briar patch after having just gotten out. So, will you put a Flareside bed on? Styleside?

Interesting! Yes, the F3's are supposedly the best heads, for a number of reasons. But I didn't know the manifolds changed as well. I'm sure the thickness is greater, which is probably why the Dorman part won't fit.

Our page has the Ford part numbers, the Motorcraft part numbers, and the lengths for each of the applications: Documentation/Electrical/Battery Cables.

Ok, my misunderstanding. And I know that I've used anti-seize on them successfully. However, the PST not only keeps them from galling, it seals the hole so water doesn't get in around the screw. So that's what I use now.

Bill - We will just have to see what I'm doing with the adapter, dizzy, etc when you get ready to put the new engine in. Right now no one knows what the future will be like. See below... Jim - Scott's offer to loan an adapter was for break-in. But I'm planning on running it for many months, so I need to buy one. And his comes with injector port plugs as well. But they are brass cups, which probably won't come out in a way that can be re-used. As for how long I'll run it and where I'll go, the honest answer is "I don't know". I just want Big Blue back on the road for a while. We don't have fines here, but I don't expect to have him back on the road before the kids come in maybe 3 weeks and they have no idea how long they'll be here. I get out maybe once a week to go get groceries 'cause I'm flattening the curve seriously. So maybe COVID-19 will die down during the summer and I can go for a drive? Janey's already said that when this is over we are going places - she's getting stir crazy. As for the "genuine Motorcraft blue grommet box", that's the one that doesn't have the retard function - for whatever reason. It was on the truck when I got it and starting hot was hard due to the kick-back. So I piggy-backed another one on top of that one and put padding around its connectors so they wouldn't make noise on bumps. And I might as well do the same with another one, which I have on the shelf. On the grounds, I think I have those from Huck, so will look them up. But I surely messed up the teeth getting them off, so may just go with jumpers from the fenders to the cab.

Thanks, Bill. Jein on the DS-II box. I run two, stacked with connector nuts. I gave the top one and the connector nuts away thinking I was going straight to EFI, but I think I have another and more nuts so will set it back up stacked. Besides, the one on there is the one that came on Big Blue from Vernon and it doesn't have the retard feature. And you can use the carb adapter, but you'll have to wait a bit as I am hoping to drive the truck using the Carterbrock for a while and then, maybe, go EFI over the winter. But even then, the carb is borrowed back from Brandon/Bruno2 so I can't loan it out. However, I have the Street Demon that I plan to press into service once I fire it and prove it with the AFB and you could use that. But, you gotta light the fire with something. Wanna also use the to-be-curved dizzy. Oh yes, you'll either have to have the injectors installed which, as you well know, requires the fuel rails to hold them in, or get brass cups to plug the holes. The adapter comes with the cups, but I suspect they'll be worse for the wear after I get them out.

I found this Dorman kit while looking for other parts. I guess this is designed to fix the exact broken bolt issue that is present in my engine? That's interesting. It says "OE Fix, Rear Right; To 1/31/93". That's probably the date the F3 heads were introduced. Odd that it doesn't work with them. Or, maybe the manifolds changed then?

Thanks, Rob.

Thanks for adding your name to your sig, Jason. And again, welcome.

Got the other battery hold-down made and installed, and then connected the battery cables. Basically, the electrical system is DONE! I still have to pull those parts, as well as the power steering/air conditioning compressor bracket, off and powder coat them, but I want to wait a bit to see what else needs to be powder coated so I can do it all in one go. And, because the transfer case is sitting in the powder coating booth - in the way. So, here's my plan, after cleaning up the shop enough to have some place to put things as I work on them: Order carb adapter and send dizzy in to Scotty Headers: This will be delicate as I do NOT want to chip them. So I'll have to pad everything. Transfer Case: Once the headers are on the transfer case can go on Drive Shafts: The rear shaft should bolt right on, but I need to rebuild the front shaft Oil pressure switch & fittings: I need to add the tree at the back of the engine and connect up the wiring, pressure line, etc. Ignition system: I gave my DS-II box to someone at the show, so I need to put one back and hook the connectors up. Fuel System: I need to re-install the old fuel tank with pump & sender, or put in the FDM. I need to make a decision on that. Brakes: Add fluid and bleed them Steering: Connect up the power steering/hydroboost lines About now the carb adapter should come in and I can add the adapter and carb Cooling System: Install the radiator & hoses. Dizzy: When the dizzy comes in I can install it, new plugs, and wires. Fire It Up!

Well, you are on the map. And, I know Conway. Have stopped there many times while crossing AR on I-40. Know that Exit 125 takes me to Starbucks. And we used to take 65 to go to Searcy where our son went to college. What's your name? We like to call each other by our real names, so if you'll play along just put it in your signature.

Welcome! Glad you joined. What part of AR? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if I had a town.