Gary Lewis

Cool!!! I like it! You said "banner", but what about a front license tag?

Well, Gary's evaluation is at the bottom of this post and is really a questions. First, Scotty just called and said my dizzy, carb adaptor, plugs, wires, etc will ship out Monday. Second, the morning was spent repairing the neighbor's chemical sprayer for the yard. It had a flimsy sheetmetal bracket with holes in the front, into which the hitch bolted and it had rusted and then pulled out. I happened to have a piece of angle laying on the bench from the coolant reservoir bracket work, and that was perfect as it was many times stronger and gave him more adjustment range, which he said he needed. With a bit of press work I got it back in shape and then welded on the angle. A few holes, and it was better than new. Then turned to the ignition module spacer. The idea of making 3/4" diameter pieces 1 1/4" long using a hole saw on a 1 1/4" thick block of aluminum didn't pan out. So I went back to the stainless. And with a lot of patience I finally got the next two drilled and tapped 1/4-20 on both ends. Then I decided to install a new module on the bottom since the old one has a flaky retard circuit. Here's everything installed with plenty of aluminum-based anti-seize on everything, inc the interfaces between the aluminum modules and the stainless spacers: And now for the question. In these pics the to-be #2 ground is snaked up through and onto the auxiliary battery's ground. The other end is laying roughly where I'm thinking of drilling and tapping the frame. In the pic on the left you can see the spot roughly 1/2 way between the two rivets. The hole would go through both the top of the frame as well as the frame liner, which is welded to the frame. And there's an opening below that spot where I can get the serrated nut in to provide more surface area to the connection. Sitting here looking at the pic on the left, I could angle the wire down the fender apron to the front, along with the other wires running there which you can see, and come to the same spot via a more protected and less conspicuous route. Anyway, thoughts about that location for the ground?

Maybe we need to have a Bullnose Forum sticker. Could says something about built not bought. Perhaps we need a contest, and then find someone that can make it?

This explains why I can hear every cylinder fire when I have the radio on... The 4.9L gets no respect.

I forgot to say that if you don't have noise in the radio then don't worry about replacing it. These were needed back in the AM days more than FM.

That's the condenser/capacitor and is there to take out ignition noise for the radio. The truck will be fine w/o it. In fact, the 6 cylinder trucks didn't have one. And thanks for asking this here.

Ray! This is a family-oriented forum!

I think you meant "don't". I'm pretty sure that if I do tell she'll think I'm crazy - no way you'd go back into that briar patch after having just gotten out. So, will you put a Flareside bed on? Styleside? :nabble_smiley_blush:YES DONT TELL Have to get the truck and see what all might come with it then see how I want to go. It would be just a roller, no motor or transmission. I would like to lower it with maybe DJM beams and a flip kit out back then I start thinking crazy and may do a Crown Vic front or the whole frame, motor, trans setup? It would be my play toy with v8 power and auto. As for a bed don't know? If I did a CV frame swap you cant use the bed as the frame kicks up for the rear axle travel. Also being you cant find flare sides I would most likely go style side. I could go with a long bed and cut it to make a short bed to fit the CV frame if that is the way I went. I really need to get the Javelin in paint before I do any work on this truck project if it was ever to happen. I just know there are some "good parts" that will be left over from my buddies project that I cant let go to the scrap yard. Dave ---- Jim - I hope you can get something done before the next round gets there. Dave - I understand the feelings. Can't let those parts go to the crusher! We all need the space that Scott or Ray have so we can "line 'em up". (Reminds me of a song by James Taylor.)

You should have had two streams on the first move of the throttle. But, I'm not sure what you mean by "second movement". Do you mean you opened the throttle and nothing happened, then closed it and opened it again and got two streams? If so, that's a problem. The accelerator pump should not cause a problem while idling. Not to say that it can't if it has a leak, but it shouldn't. However, a malfunctioning accelerator pump will certainly cause a problem as you start to open the throttle. The issue is that that air has less mass than gasoline. So when you open the throttle air moves more quickly than gasoline and for a brief time you have too much air and too little gasoline and the engine doesn't want to run on it. So the accelerator pump is there to force a spritz of gas in as you open the throttle to keep the air/fuel ratio in a range where the engine will continue to run. Then, when you quit moving the throttle the gasoline catches up and there's no need for the pump - until you open the throttle more. As for the choke, it may have been open because the engine was warm. Or it may have been open because the throttle was up against the fast idle cam. But if the engine is starting properly when cold let's not worry about that for the moment. Anyway, I wouldn't tear into the carb quite yet. Let's see what your family member has to say.

That certainly IS a nice truck. And a very reasonable price.

Bump! We only have two pics submitted so far. Time's running out as I'm going to start the poll about Wednesday since that's the 15th of the month.

No, we are in April so are posting pics for the May pic of the month. The thread to post pics in is May 2020 Truck Of The Month Photo Submissions. But that's only open for the next four days or so and then I'll create a new thread with a poll. And so far we only have two submissions - Blacktop's tutone red '84 from the UK, and Ray's Lil' Blue '82.

Not sure where my fuel line is going to go. I may run the FDM's and, if so, the fuel line goes up over the back of the transmission and then to the backside of the intake. Then I'll put the return-style regulator there and have my own hot-fuel handling system, but with regulated pressure to the carb. Then, when I go EFI the fuel lines are right there and I just swap out to the lines to the rail and regulator. Tada! But, if I go back with the original setup the lines would come right down the frame rail and then have to go up to the carb. And I might want that hold-down. But, I'm not averse to drilling another hole in the crossmember. Hmmm.... However, I don't think you need to drill the plastic retainer out. I think it is one of the pin-style where you drive the pin through and it comes off. I changed the one on the passenger's side as it was way too small to hold the #2 ground. I have a bin of the plastic retainers I've gathered and had one that held the ground nicely.

I think a steering box bolt is a good idea. They are small enough that I should have the right connector. Another option is just to drill and tap the frame or crossmember like the passenger's side ground is done. I took it a step farther and used a bit longer bolt with a serrated nut underneath, and plenty of aluminum-based anti-seize to ensure there's no corrosion. Thinking back to the spacers for the DS-II modules, I think I may have some aluminum that I could use. That stainless is just so hard.

Jim put me onto Tabco some time ago, and my paint/body man loved those panels. Said they are the best he's gotten.

I have not washed it, but then again i did just buy it in November so maybe some did? It was as dirty as it is now when i bought it. I checked the order and it appears to 15426378 so that is good (going off the wires and counterclockwise from the #1 position on the distributor). the driver side firing order is wired 5678 should i switch the 6 and the 7 then could this be the issue? Had to take off and wont be able to test this till tomorrow or Sunday. Bill is East Coast and you are West Coast, so it is possible he won't respond tonight. But he didn't mean to change the firing order. That will for sure cause it to miss. He meant to change the order the wires are run. In other words, don't run 7 & 8 right next to each other. Put #6 between them.

Before you start on it, make sure the accelerator pump is bad. In your pic the choke is wide open. With the engine off and the choke open look down the throats of the carb and open the throttle. You should see two strong streams of gas shoot into the carb down the throats. If not, the accelerator pump is bad. You'll want to buy a kit for the carb, but the kits are pretty universal. You'll need to take that linkage off the pump, pull the 4 screws, and remove any material from the pump's diaphragm if it sticks to the carb or the cover. Both gasket surfaces, the one on the carb and the one on the cover, need to be spotless. And don't scratch them while cleaning them. But there's a rubbery poppet valve inside the opening and it may be broken. If so it'll need to be replaced. I'm not sure, but I think it can be replaced w/o removing the carb. We should talk through this before you get started.

Bummer! But glad you got your money back.

Yes, save for when I hit the button to the battery isolator and parallel the batteries for starting. Then current will cross the radiator support via the #4 yellow wire to the PDB and thence to the starter. But it needs to find its way back, and right now there's no good path. However, if I tie the aux battery's negative to the frame the current can come back via the short #2 wire from the block to the frame on the passenger's side. If I tied the aux battery's negative to the block then I'd have two routes to the block. But I don't see a good place to go to the block, and going to the frame looks easy. And that #2 ground I installed the other day is a good one. Guess I'll rely on it.

And that would be?

That's for sure!

I don't think I have that much cable. I've though about going to the frame on the driver's side, which then goes to that stud. Thoughts?

Looking good, VW! Remind me what springs you are going with up front?

Angelo - My pick is the later fuel delivery modules. Plumbing outside of the tank is easy - just tees. The only real issue is the gauge, and I have a plan for that.

Jim - You get a star! I'd actually forgotten to mention the weird connection on the coil until Bill mentioned it. (Yes, Bill, the EFI coil has that same male connection, but I have the coil.) I forgot to say that I found a #2 cable today that I'm going to use as the ground from the auxiliary battery to the engine. But I haven't found where I want to connect it on the engine end, and I may wait until I get the headers on to do it since I want to steer far away from the exhaust. Any suggestions?