Gary Lewis

Happy Easter! I'm pretty sure that the later cab's floor will work for the areas you mentioned. The issues would be at the rear of the transmission hump, which was extended farther back. But, you could still use that part of the floor - it would just be different. And, there may be an issue around the seat belt bolts.

If I run a carb I'm FOR SURE going to run a "stock" air cleaner, with all its plumbing. Read this: Documentation/Fuel Systems/Air Cleaners. But some of my "stock" air cleaners have grown a second snorkel.

I guess it is your phone that is old school. If I point the camera on my iPhone at the QR code I get the popup shown below, and if I click it I'm taken to the forum.

Ahhh! Now I understand. I have weld-through primer, but haven't used much of it. As said, please be careful!

I missed that, Bill. But I see it now. I think I may have one of those still, but if not have had. Fairly rare.

Welcome to the forum. I understand that you have a question that you'd like answered. However, in the email I sent you when you joined on March 13th I specifically asked you to "Please go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then start a new thread/topic in that folder about yourself and your truck." You've not done that, so I can only assume you've not read the guidelines that are posted there. It is important that you read the guidelines as you will be held to them. We have a friendly, family-oriented forum here and have banned members for not following the guidelines, and I don't want that to happen to you. So when you've read the guidelines and posted the introduction, I'll be happy to discuss the fuse box. In fact, I have a fuse box sitting out that I can take pics of to post if that will help.

That's a good idea, Dave. But perhaps we can incorporate the QR code? Just point your phone's camera at this:

Jim - Be careful!

The timing is the key, although the RPM is a factor. I'd thought about this, but decided to do some math. All the box can do is delay a fixed period of time from when the dizzy says to spark. And in my test the timing got retarded 4 degrees. So: Looks to me like the box delays the spark about 1 millisecond.

Blessed Easter!

I'm free! Yes, that was classic. We are big Britcom fans.

Glad you got some pedal. It'll get better from here. (I'd say "Ride up with wear" but you might not be a fan of Are You Being Served?) As for the ham and just the wife, that's exactly our situation. We thought our kids were moving in with us for a bit and bought a large ham. They haven't yet, so now we are eating ham. Lots of it.

So the 5 sheets you ordered won't be enough to also do the doors? I was asking to figure out how many sheets I'll need.

Yes. In his post of Apr 10, 2020; 10:39am, Scott provided a link to my post back on FTE where I tested those two modules. You said "I think you should just use a timing light, then apply power to the 'retard' wire and see if the marks move back towards tdc." I did and discovered that the module that was on BB when I got him didn't always retard the spark. Which is why I moved him to backup duty. But while I was working on this yesterday I to that module out and installed a new one in its place. And then wrote "Doesn't always retard" on it with a red Sharpie and put him back on the shelf. As for the ground, I see what you are saying. I'll route the wire forward and install the ground. Thanks.

There's always something that seems to drag out a project like this. But, you have a plan in hand, so will get there.

I'm going to ask a question that suggests I think you are ...... inexperienced. But I don't mean it that way. And I'm sure you are smarter and more experienced than I. But, you do know that most master cylinders have a rubber liner under the lid, and you are supposed to remove it and put the fluid under that? I ask because when I got Big Blue the clutch didn't work well. I bled and bled and then they didn't work at all. But I'd not pulled that liner and all of the fluid was on top of it and the master cylinder was dry. Once I pulled that and added fluid then bled again I still didn't have enough pedal to release the clutch. But the guys told me that the line is so small on a clutch that the bubbles don't come up it without being jarred. Instead they stick inside and compress when you try to use the clutch. Sure enough, I started the truck in gear and drove around the neighborhood for maybe 2 miles, all the while working the clutch pedal. And by the time I got done I had plenty of pedal.

Thanks! I am using Fat Mat Rattle Trap, but this time I went without the logo. I ordered 25 sq ft, which ends up coming in as five sheets rolled in a box. Two sheets took care of the firewall, the seat area, and the inspection cover. In all honesty, one hole sheet went into the inspection cover alone. If I use the rest sparingly like I plan, I should have enough left over to do the roof and the back wall as well. Are you doing anything to the doors?

As I was finishing the last holes for the rear spring hangers, I noticed that these packs are 5 leaves each. So there's at least an inch of lift from the spring pack thickness alone. I'm really curious to see how far it drops with an engine and a transmission, but I don't think she'll go too far. I need to measure Big Blue tomorrow to see how much the front has dropped with the radiator support and two batteries. May not be measurable.

Bill - I have these cables:Positive:Main to PDB: new #2PDB to starter: new #2PDB to battery isolator: 1995 #4 with dual fuse linksBattery isolator to aux battery: new #4Negative:Main to engine: new #2Engine to frame on passenger's side: new #2Main to passenger's fender: new #4Aux to driver's fender: new #4Passenger's fender to radiator support: new #10Driver's fender to radiator support: new #10 So with all those new cables I don't want to change the strategy. But, I have the ability to parallel batteries and if I do that and then hit Start the aux battery's return will be: Block to the main battery via the #2Main battery to the passenger's fender via the #4Passenger's fender to the radiator support via the #10Radiator support to the driver's fender via the #10Driver's fender to the aux battery via the #4 In other words, I'll melt the #10's bonding the radiator support to the fenders. But, all I need to do is to put a ground from the aux battery to the frame and the route will be: Block to frame on passenger's sideAcross the engine crossmember to the frame on the driver's sideFrame to aux battery via the to-be #2 ground No fried #10's and the auxiliary battery can contribute pretty well to the starting. And all I'll have left to complete my grounding strategy are #10 grounds from the two fenders to the cab and then install the braided ground from the engine to the firewall.

I am going to install a new pick up in the distributor tomorrow, its the only thing left that I can think of. Something is breaking down when it gets hot. TFI and coul is new, pick up is the only thing left. Right? Short of the ecm/pcm. I had just about my fill with this truck. I have over 5 invested, had it two years and maybe have 200 miles on it. Yes, a pickup in the dizzy can do it. But, two years and 200 miles - I see why you are frustrated. On the other hand, you have to be CLOSE! Everything is new.

That's what I did just now. Bracket is on! Had to stop and eat supper though. I was hungry! I was thinking "That sure looks familiar." Then I realized why. Anyway, your installation is going well. You'll beat me to using it, and I'm anxious to see what you think.

Angelo - I think I understand. Hope it works out well for you. Keep us posted and please document what you do and how it works. Greg - You are peeling an onion, and you've just eliminated several possible issues. Keep going and soon you'll have a Bloomin' Onion soon. Shaun - That think looks like it is on stilts! Mine is settling down now that it has an engine, tranny, and a couple of batteries.

I like that, Shaun. Kinda wish I had BB's dash out so I could do that. NOT! I'll do it on Dad's truck. Remind me what material you are using?

I thought so, but couldn't remember for sure. I think they are going to work for me.

Greg - This is obviously your call. But why can't you pull codes? If you could you might be able to save the EFI system. And it is a pretty good system. For proof of that just look at the horsepower and torque specs for the carb'd 302 vs the EFI'd 302. However, if you are sure you want to swap from EFI to a carb we can start listing all the parts you will need.