Gary Lewis

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Take it off and shake it. The pin may fall out. If you look at the schematic there appear to be three separate switches inside the ignition switch module. The one on the left brings in the starter. And both switches on the right are used for the ignition. I've noticed on other trucks that those switches aren't perfectly aligned internally. On an old switch in cold weather the Start switch will open as you roll the key back from Start to Run, but one of the other switches won't make so the accessories like the clock and radio don't come on. I'm thinking that your left switch is opening up so the starter drops out, but the right switch is staying connected so the resistance wire is bypassed.

Yes, I hope he is/has enjoyed his day. As for the plug wire routing, here's what's on Dad's engine:

Where is birthday boy? He'd know.

U-Tech is great. Shipping company not so much. Yes, I think the tab is what holds them.

Just had a thought - what if that thing also routed plug wires? I could make a matching one for the other side. In any event, I don't want it to interfere. By the way, these came today. FedUp said they put them on the porch. They weren't there but I told Janey I'd wait a bit before complaining because they've lied several times before about when they deliver things or why they didn't. Two hours later a nice guy from another neighborhood brought them as they'd been delivered to his house. I really like Amazon, then UPS, then USPS, then anyone but FedUp.

Yes, it wouldn't be a mock-up. And cutting is easy with aluminum. Welding not so much as I don't have the equipment - and have had very little need for it. WelderScott has suggested I needed it, but ...... Years ago I walked into the trailer supply house here and asked if he knew of anyone that welded aluminum. He stepped out the back door and pointed to a house a couple of blocks away. I went there and discovered the guy had retired from American Airlines. Was certified to weld chewing gum wrappers. Welded my part and made it look new. But he passed away and there's only one other guy I know of, and he's 'spensive. So I'll start long and trim.

Yeah, Dana axles have the model number cast into the housing. It's usually pretty big and pretty tall characters, so heavy gunk can obscure it, but they can be read easily with minor cleanup. I think Dana 70. The snippet below is from our Documentation/Driveline/Axles page. And which that doesn't include stripped chassis truck, the MPC says the Dana 80 was rated at 11M.

Sorry to see that, Angelo. However, have you read about what I found on Big Blue? The front was out on one side every bit as much as yours, and with a come-along, ratchet straps, etc I got it back in. But all of that bend was after the engine crossmember.

Welcome, Matt! Glad you joined. Used to live in Elgin, not too far from you. But, would you like to be on our map, seen in the menu at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map? Nice truck. And a lot of truck for weekend chores. You've run afoul of the software in this forum, which is like many forums - dumb. It doesn't read the camera position data embedded in the pictures. So the way around that is to open the pic in editing software, which will rotate the pic to fit your screen, and then save the pic. That usually fixes the problem.

Jim - Don't miss that he has 14.3 volts at the coil with the key in Run. Wait! Starliner - Was that with the key in Run but the engine not running? Couldn't be 14.3 volts DC with the engine running as the duty cycle, the equivalent of the points opening and closing, would have it far less than that. Unless you are reading the ringing. So, please confirm how you measured 14.3v at the coil.

Well, hello there! New kid on the block. (Kid? He's going on 73) Forgot to log out and back in.

Jim - I was thinking I'd mimic the valve covers, meaning have the lower corners radiused similar to the corners of the cover. Is that what you mean? And you are saying carry them on towards the ends of the cover. Like maybe halfway between where they are and the ends of the cover? As for color, go ahead and taunt me. (After I spent an hour today getting rid of the #$%^& red on the power steering cooler.) Dane - Blue? Hadn't thought of that. Hmmm....

Yes, a Chrysler ballast resistor would work as a bandaid. But you won't have full voltage for starting so it might not start as easily. But I seriously doubt anyone has removed the wire as it is deep in the wiring harness. However, they may have wired around it.

Those appear to be the F3 EFI heads, which are the better of two EFI heads. They are what's on Big Blue, and I paid a lot more than that to have them rebuilt. So if those are in good shape, which "All work, no problems" would imply, then these are a good buy.

Yes, it is a good find. Has been forwarded to Janey in case one of the kids would want to get it for someone soon to get another year older. Shame it doesn't have a Bullnose as the large pic.

I'm still in my 20's and can't stand the music of today. When I'm older I'll be playing the same music from the 80's and 90's that I listen to now. I'm streaming 60's music in the shop. Can't stand to work w/o music, and they stopped making music in about 1970.

Rusty - The instructions I have from Hydratech say exactly what you are saying. The long part of the tee is for the power steering box's return to the pump, and the short side is for the brake's return. In fact, they have a full page explanation of that, so I scanned their instructions in and put them on the page at Documentation/Driveline/Brakes and then the Master Cyl's & Boosters tab and the Hydroboost Upgrade tab. Anyway, I got the return all plumbed up today using the brass tee, as shown below. The return port on the Saginaw I have installed has a poor angle on it for this use, and I gave a lot of thought to using the pump I built for Dad's truck or the can from Jegs. But neither of those have a good angle to the port, so I just used this one and looped the line up and over, as you can see here. It isn't pretty, but it should work. And, you can also see in the above pic the mockup I did of a bracket for the dip stick using Jim's suggestion. I drilled that piece to take bolts into the valve cover and a bolt holding the dip stick itself. Looks like it ought to work nicely, so I'll make something out of the aluminum channel I used for the battery hold downs. Good idea, Jim! But, in the pic below you can see that the dip stick isn't quite where it'll end up being when I get the piece made. That's because the piece I used is too close to the valve cover so you can't run the bolt in far enough to make the dip stick pull up to the angle. I'll make the to-be piece a bit wider so a bolt can be threaded in from the back and act like a stud for a nut to go on. Or, just Loctite a stud in the aluminum. So, what color should that bracket be? The same as the valve covers? Black?

Thanks, Rob & Matthew. We may be "there" for the moment. Rob - If they willfully disregard the guidelines they'll get a note from me in the background asking that they change their ways and their posts. If they won't do that then we'll kiss them goodbye. Matthew - Maybe I should sign up for the Bullnose forum using my new email address and document exactly what the process is and what the new user sees. I'll publish that in a new thread or maybe on a page. And we can all see if it needs to be tweaked a bit more.

But, when it is ready to drive, it will say, "I've been waiting for you" and, "no, that is not all I have!" And don't forget "There's a station up head - don't forget that's the only thing we don't pass."

Well said, David! I'm envious. It is cool here today. Beautiful day. Unfortunately the truck isn't ready to drive.

Do you know German? If so, jein. That means yes and no. 14.3 volts going into the battery while running is about right, as is 12.7 at rest. But, you should not have 14.3 volts at the coil while running. Something is mis-wired. You can see in the schematic below that the ignition switch is supposed to bypass the resistance wire in Start and send full battery voltage to the coil, but that in Run the power flows through the coil and the voltage gets dropped. Did you adjust the new ignition switch when you installed it? Instructions for that are on the page at: Documentation/Electrical/Ignition and then the Ignition Switch tab.

Well, I think it looks good. To your questions, approving the request is done in the background by the admins. We get an email that says someone has requested that they be allowed to join, like I did when you asked to join the Test forum. Not sure that needs to be explained, but we might be able to do so by editing another macro. As for the email address, I use the same one on both the Test and Bullnose forums. No problemo. So, what do y'all think about the message that a new member to the Bullnose forum will get, as below? One thing I want to do is to make it read "then start a new thread/topic in that folder...." so the user knows that is where they are to post first. But I don't want to change anything for the moment until we get agreement as Matthew has that one more request to join sitting out there and I want to make all the changes and then approve his request and see that I got the changes right. So, please let me know what you think?

Matthew - I see that you've also requested to join the Test forum via a second email address. I'd like to wait to approve it until I tweak the macro a bit based on what I see from your screen shots on the first one. Then, after making the changes, I'll approve the second one and then you can show us what the changes begat. Ok?

Thanks, Matthew! Just approved your request. You should have gotten the email with a link to click. I'd like to see the email, and then I'd like to see what the page looks like that says Congratulations after you click the link to confirm. And hopefully you were then taken to the New Member folder.