Gary Lewis

I don't agree, Angelo. They are different part numbers, so they have to be different in some way. I can't tell you what the differences are, but they are surely different as Ford wouldn't issue different part numbers for the same part. So if they are the same diameter, tooth count, and imbalance, perhaps there's a different offset to them? Meaning that one is flat and another is dished? If so, that would mean the flexplate is always bent when attached to the wrong torque converter, which would cause it to crack.

Steve - Thanks anyway. You tried. There's a salvage near me that I'll hit up next week. Maybe they have something.

Have them check the starter’s gear closely. Make SURE the teeth aren’t damaged or they’ll tear up a new flywheel.

I think you've just figured out what the problem was. He used a Windsor flywheel and needed to space it back to fit the starter. I don't know that's the case, but it makes sense. As far as the question, I don't know. I don't think I have a Windsor flywheel to compare to an M flywheel. So I can't say. But our page on Documentation/Engines/Flywheels says a 351M or 400 with an auto takes a D1AZ 6375-A. And the D1 means it came out in 1971, and the A means it came out on a full-sized Ford car.

Oh, ok. I understand. Thanks, Vaughn.

Yes! It is important that shields be grounded at one end only. Else there's a current through them and that induces voltage on the wiring within. SPG's, AKA floating shields work as filters not shields. It acts as a high pass filter to magnetic fields and lo-pass to electrical fields/high freq filter. Shields are grounded at both ends and perform doubly better. I don't think you are going to run into a ground loop issue by grounding both ends and having a low ground transfer impedance. We protect sensitive flight control cables by using an EMI braid terminated to structure on both ends and that sits inches away from cables carrying 640V of power at 400Hz. High speed digital transmission lines also required a low resistance ground at both ends. Basically the rule of thumb is this. If you are worried about the interference being in the electrical field state then single point grounds work. If you are worried about the inference (especially with low impedance circuits) being EMF (Magnetic field caused by high power) then a shield bonded at both ends is the way to go. The current flow in the shield actually cancels out the EMI. Double shielded AV wires that you buy are actually protected by a flat shield that works at higher frequencies and a braid that works at lower. This is then grounded at both connections. Interesting. What about shields that have a ground at one end and a cap at the other? I think I've read about them. I thought the idea was to prevent ground loops but still have a connection at the other end.

Nice truck. Not sure it is worth $4k, but it is nice nonetheless.

That's pretty pricey! Yikes! As said on the other 351M, building that engine doesn't make much sense to me. (Sorry, Angelo.) It is so easy to slip a 400 crank in and that opens up a very wide range of pistons. And, 1/2" more stroke!

Mark - Welcome to the forum! Glad you joined. You got in before I got you the email telling you to go to the New Members Start Here, read the guidelines, and then post an intro thread there. So would you please go do that? You said "This is my Bullnose", but I don't see a pic. Sometimes this forum isn't the easiest place to post pics, but there are directions for that on the page at Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's. EDIT: The pic is now there. For generic parts, one my go-to places is Rock Auto. Their website has a good catalog. But once I get a part number I shop around as I frequently find the parts cheaper elsewhere. However, for things like window and door seals, tailgate parts, and other Bullnose parts I go to Jeff's Bronco Graveyard, Dennis Carpenter, and LMC. But you have to do some investigation as some of the parts are better than others. For instance, aftermarket tailgates are notoriously thin. And many of the vendors have thin door panels. But Dennis Carpenter is said to be making new ones from Ford dies and they are much better - but more expensive.

Not bad prices at all.

I'm always wary of rebuilt engines from individuals. Just don't know what they did and if they did it correctly. But a 351M is a strange case. Personally I'd not rebuild an engine as a 351. There just aren't pistons to give a 351M anything other than 8.0:1 compression. But slip a 400 crank in and there are lots of pistons available.

Jim - I thought I'd save the plug wire routing for another post. I don't know the answer to the question. But, I just had a thought that I want to bounce off y'all. I've been struggling with how to use the aluminum channel to hold the EEC coil. And I think I just "twigged" as the Brits would say. What if I cut a U out of it, as shown below, to clear the valve cover. And either make a coupling nut or, probably better, just a spacer that lets a long bolt go into the intake where the current stud is to which the factory bracket attaches. The space on top of the channel is pretty much just the right size for the coil, and I can drill and tap the aluminum to take bolts to hold it on. But the issue comes with how to fasten it to the dip stick stay. That will be running at an angle to horizontal, sorta as shown, and it will be the "legs" or "ribs" of the channel that will hit it. So I'm searching for a way to attach it. Now, why did this come up in the plug wire routing discussion? Because if the coil mount is smaller front/rear I might be able to sneak it between #6 and #7 such that the wires go either side of it. In the pic below you can see that there's not much chance of that using the factory bracket, even if chopped and channeled as it is the mounting tab on the inside that determines where it goes fore/aft. But with an aluminum mount the hole can go anywhere so the mount can move forward. And yes, then consideration has to be given to where the dip stick will mount, but one thing at a time.... Thoughts? Suggestions? Help on how the outside of the mount/channel attaches to the dip stick stay?

I think I'll be fine with that coil. It probably took the truck over 100K miles, and with a paint job it'll look good. But I'll PC the bracket for it. And I'll use that plug to do the conversion, just as was done on Big Blue before. As for the EEC coil bracket, I only have three of them, so think I'll chop, channel, and french it in the hot rod style. Narrower and w/o that leg going down to the exhaust it'll look a whole lot smaller, even if it isn't much lighter. And then, on to the heat shields. I got the driver's side one in, although I think it needs a bit of attitude adjustment as I doubt I can get the plugs out where it sits. I put it in place, scrunching the pieces that go around the plugs just a bit to slip down in, and front tab slipped right into place and the front #6 exhaust bolt went right in. But the back tab was too long and too wide. So I pulled it off and measured the front tab and marked the rear tab where the front tab's holes are, as shown here: Then I shortened the rear tab, drilled a new slot, and trimmed the front side of it to be no wider than the head of the bolt, as the bolt is essentially up against the pipe when tightened down. You can see that here, with the bolt in it: And, here it is with the bolts tightened up. As said, I think it will need adjusting to get clearance for the plugs to come out, but that will only require making the slots a bit longer on the top end. No studs needed!

I think you'll be fine cutting inside of the splices, but save as much of that wire as is possible. The shorter you make the shunt the less sensitive the ammeter will be. But, they aren't accurate anyway, so.... I think that wire is just a know resistance per inch or foot, so they use it in that position. So, "special" may be a stretch. But maybe "specific"? Happy to help.

If you use EXACTLY the wire that is currently between S201 and S202 then yes it will work. But you cannot use any other wire. It has to be that wire that is between those two splices. It is a special piece of wire.

I agree, although I think there should be an easier way to remove it than screws, for draining fluids. He's giving me the old 400, so I may do something with it. He's also done plenty of motors before, and 460s simply won't fit in this truck due to the steering box location, so he decided to hop up the 400. TMeyer pistons, 9.3:1 compression, totally roller cam converted (I can't remember the specs, something like 274 adv duration, .490 lift?) Trick Flow 195cc heads. Should make 400hp around 4200rpm and over 500tq at 2000rpm with the tq curve being flat from 1600 on. Very similar to Dad's engine. Tim's pistons but 10.25 CR, Trick Flow heads, Tim's full roller cam, roller lifters, etc. Dyno pulls shown here: Documentation/Picture Gallery/Dad's Truck/Engine.

Get the frame from PA and move everything over.

In a good mood Gary? OK, 654 & 655 might not currently be the same length as they were... So, keeping the setup 100% as intended is not really possible. Are you saying the wires do need to be the original length or just originate at original positions? Yep, on a roll! There's no issue with length of 654 and 655. They carry so little current they might as well be headphone wires. But the length of the shunt, meaning the BK/O between splices 201 and 202, should stay roughly the factory length. That wire is a resistance wire. But, a very, very small resistance. So as current flows across it a voltage is developed in accordance with Ohm's Law: E=IR. That voltage generates the current flowing to the ammeter through 654 and 655. There's a writeup on the page at Documention/Electrical/Ammeter and you can see what little voltage and current it takes to swing them to full scale - something like .125 volts and .8 amps. So, the current across the shunt would have to generate the .125 volt drop, and at 70 amps that means the shunt has a resistance value of about .0018 ohms. And at 70 amps that would generate 8.8 watts. But at 130 amps that would generate 30 watts - and might well melt the insulation and fry the wire.

Jim - Ok, I think I understand. But I think I've worked out where to put the DS-II coil. This is probably the coil off of Dad's truck and I may or may not use it but do plan to use that mount and put the leg under that bolt head on the lower plenum. The only issue is the female to male adaptor. That's the red thing, which was on Big Blue's coil. And the coil wire Scotty sent me also expects a male connector on the coil. So I could just use that adapter. However, is there a coil that comes with a male terminal and would accept the Ford horseshoe connector and fit in that bracket? And now for the EEC coil. Here's the bracket that Bill mentioned with the coil bolted to it. The red tape is to protect the valve cover, but does serve to point out how much real estate is wasted on the top of that bracket for things I won't have. Also note where the leg of the bracket comes off - the back side of the bracket. So I can't easily just cut the back half off. However, read on.... This pic shows a closer view of the leg and its proximity to the dip stick stay. The stay needs to come out a bit farther from the valve cover to allow a bolt to go into it to hold the dip stick. And that will put it up against the leg. So why not cut the leg off there, grind off the lip on the back edge, and bend it to just touch the stay. Drill the leg, drill and tap the stay, and put a bolt in there. And, if I really wanted to reduce the real estate on the top I could cut the back 2" off and put that piece under the front piece and weld it on. That would still maintain the lips that provide strength but make the bracket only 2/3 its existing size - 4" vs 6". And the trick with the leg bolting to the stay would still apply. Thoughts?

I agree, guys. A gauge that doesn't work would drive me bananas! Ok, so the ammeter stays in service. So let's go back to the questions. You need the shunt, the BK/O #38 between S201 and S202 and 654 & 655 wired exactly as they currently are. (CURRENTLY. Get it. ) So that would suggest you should connect the BK/O #38 that's connected to Fuse Link J in the diagram I posted to the new fuse. Does that make sense and answer the question? And Myrl is good to go 'cause he went with a smaller alternator, which is sorta compatible with the maybe 70 amp-capable shunt. But go bigger than a 90 amp alternator and you are playing with fire. (FIRE. Get it? )

Rob - Lots of thoughts. But first, instead of you taking a pic of your EVTM, if you'd look at any of the ones on here, and assuming you are on a computer, you can right click, copy the address of the pic, and then paste it into the Or Copy An Image From The Internet option in Insert Image. It is lots easier than it sounds when I type it out. And, speaking of that, I did that to put the one in below, which is from the 1981 EVTM, although all of the trucks have the same wiring for the ammeter. Second, are you upgrading to a 3G? If not, you can continue to use the ammeter. But if you are upgrading then the shunt may well melt if you use it the factory way. However, you can use it to only show the draw for things in the cab, as explained on the Ammeter & Voltmeter tab on our page here: Documentation/Electrical/3G Alternator Conversion. Let's stop there and let you answer that question before proceeding.

Man, Moriarty got up early this morning. No, I've not considered the DS-II coil for use with the EEC, but would like to keep the EEC coil as I know it is compatible with the electronics. However, you bring up the very next (of many) questions - where do I put the DS-II coil, after I blast off the red paint? I've not looked but must do. Basically I'm into a whole series of questions, including: Where do the plug wires need to run? This is crucial to the question of how or if to use the dip stick stay as a plug wire guide. Where does the DS-II coil mount, and it needs to be close to the stock carb'd 460 location to use the stock DS-II wiring. How does the EEC coil mount? This is key to making a dip stick stay as it shouldn't get in the way. How does the heat shield mount, and can its mounting be incorporated in the EEC coil mounting? Or can learnings from one be applied to the other? I think installing the dizzy should be done in the near term and I find out how the wires should run. In fact, as I think about it, before I nail down the heat shields I should get the new plugs in. Then set it on TDC and install the dizzy. Then lay the wires out and make sure the boots will work with the heat shields. And find out how the wires need to run and if the dip stick stay can be of service.

Bill - That reminds me of a line from one of my favorite movies: Why don't you knock it off with them negative waves? Why don't you dig how beautiful it is out here? Why don't you say something righteous and hopeful for a change? Seriously though, you have a valid point. The EFI coil does mount back there. So I'd better make plans for it now as well. Does it use a similar stud? I need to pull that out and see how it mounts, ensuring that the dip stick mount won't interfere. And maybe make a stud for it as well while I'm, maybe, making them. As for the heat shields, I thought they probably went in farther, but was in my street clothes last night and was just checking for fit. I'll get down and dirty, literally, in a bit and see how they can be used. And I'll keep in mind bending and re-drilling the tabs. Might make it easier as I might be able to use the studs Jim found. But my worry is that they are going to be too long as they are surely designed to go through the manifold, which is thicker, and space the shields out to the right distance. Jim - Hopefully the Jet-Hot coating will help, but that only makes the shields work even better. I'll see what I can do to get them in there.

A couple of you have pointed out that some custom things we had in the forum have gone away. That included our smileys, returns at the bottom of some pages, and font sizes. And there may well have been others. I'd made an error in a macro that appears to have been causing this. That's now been fixed and it appears to have fixed the problems. But if you see other changes like that please let me know.

Yes, it is both a good idea and a great offer. I just wish I had a truck that was going to be sitting out. Mine seem to have taken up permanent residence in the shop.