Gary Lewis

I think you'll find that is too loud. By the end of an hour of riding I think you'll agree.

Pretty! But still no bids with 2 hours 43 minutes left.

Hadn't thought about the driveshaft. But I think it was on Rusty that I found the spline problem. So I believe the splines are good. However, I didn't have the driveshaft itself checked.

So the 4x2 frames don't have the same holes the 4x4 frames have for shock towers?

Cool! Look just like mine. I’ll be curious to see what holes you use to mount them. On mine they fit just right using the front holes mated to the ones on the frame.

Glad that helped a bunch. But fixing one layer always uncovers another layer. On the splines, in my case both sets of splines were badly worn, meaning the slip yoke and the driveshaft. And the key was being able to move the driveshaft side-to-side when it was mounted. As for the tires, the Subie we have had a set of tires on it that were slightly out of balance, and when the imbalance got in phase on a smooth road it was noticeable, although on a road with some texture it wasn't. Anyway, as things went in phase and out of phase the vibes would come and go.

On the trans temp gauge, you'd have to replace the ammeter with a coolant temp gauge, but you could certainly use it to show trans temp by using a temp sender. I don't know what it would take to put a temp gauge where the ammeter is, though. On the fuel gauge, I have an Arduino project planned, as described here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/#nabble-td7174. That's 'cause I plan to run a fuel delivery module like you have to provide the pump, sender, check valves, etc. And the Arduino will have the bandwidth to do all sorts of other things, like alarming if any parameter gets out of range. But, I'm not ready to do it yet. And it may come to about $100 anyway with all the parts. So, the module you found may be your best bet.

Well, I've been battling this one vibration at 50mph that has been a real thorn in my side. It seemed to come and go at other times too, but I'm not sure. The roads are rough here a lot of the time, and with the wide tires and short wheelbase...the truck is kind of rough anyway. I've had the wheels balanced three times...once on the inside only, then again on both sides, and then the third time a proper road force balance. Maybe it has been the driveshaft all along, but it sure seemed like it was wheel/tire related. In all honesty, it feels like a tire (or tires) with flat spots...which the Cooper Cobras are somewhat known for on vehicles that sit a lot of the time, which mine does. Also puzzling...under certain circumstances...I believe if I hit the brakes while coasting at 50mph, then I'd get a fairly serious vibration....like what you would think were warped rotors. However, it rarely happened, so I assumed it wasn't the rotors. Anyway...last week I adjusted the drum brakes, and it seemed to get worse. So, I marched out and bought and installed new drums. The truck did seem smoother, but there was still a shake. That's when I decided to have the driveshaft checked out, and now here I am. I'm going to install it shortly and take it for a test drive. It's Thursday again, and super nice out, so hopefully there will be a decent gathering for car night. Make sure you check the splines on the slip yoke and the driveshaft. If they are worn you can easily get vibrations that come and go depending on if the driveshaft is transmitting power to the rear, to the front, or coasting. I had one that only appeared in coasting and it was the splines.

The C-II pump groans and whines while the Saginaw is quiet. And the C-II will puke fluid all over things if you turn the wheel with the engine off, while the Sag won't. Plus, the Sag is said to have more pressure than the C-II, but I think that may be specific to the application the pumps were originally used in.

I don't know the answers, plural, but I'm interested as I have a "new" system with a Saginaw pump and hydroboost unit, so there's gonna be a lot of air.

So, interesting...I just picked up my driveshaft from the shop and they said not only was it out of balance, but it was also bent...lol. They straightened it and did a fresh balance. They balanced it with the old slip yoke (with the damper ring) so he said that I might as well leave it on there. However, he said I could stick the other yoke on if I wanted to that it wouldn't make much (if any) difference in what I would feel in the truck. I was doing some Googling, and it looks like the damper ring was a problem on some later F150's...the rubber would fail and the rings would randomly fall off. Seems most people just cut them off and carried on without them. Makes me wonder how effective they actually were. The bend and balance issues would certainly cause bad, bad, bad vibrations. Way beyond what the damper could smooth out. Glad you got that fixed. And I can see that the rubber could deteriorate and cause the ring to come off or slip, which could cause problems. So if that happens cutting the ring off would be an easy fix. Or are you going to change it out now?

Our page here shows the garage door gasket I used: Documentation/Underhood/Cowl Seal.

Ok, I understand. Thanks. But, like Jim, my next question was "Where's the similar specs to a first gen Lightning?" Rosebud's 302 doesn't seem like it fits the bill.

But you were motivated on the LED strips, so it is a shame that can't continue.

That's a good point, Jim. Sometimes the plunger breaks. Should be inspected.

Man, it HAS been a while. Wow! But I'm glad Rosebud is running. However, the bubbles aren't a good sign. So, since you plan to use that engine I'd suggest doing a leak-down test and see if you can determine which head is leaking. That way you might only have to pull one. As for the Navigator, what is the advantage of using its chassis under a Bullnose? Better ride? Handling? And how hard is that to do? Are the wheelbases the same?

Gary, Factory trans in my truck was 3spd manual column shift. Reason I asked was I am trying to really fine tune things now, and get rid of every little vibration in the truck lol. I dropped my driveshaft off today to get balanced (or checked to see if original balance is still OK), and was trying to decide what slip yoke to re-install on it. I would think the yoke with the ring would dampen more vibrations than the one w/o. And the only very slight downside I can think of is slightly more inertia to accelerate or decelerate. That will cut ever so slightly into your ET's at the strip.

I've not dropped the pan on a 300 six, but on a V8 you certainly have to raise the front of the engine so I'd expect to do so on the 300. If you have a fan shroud make sure you remove it so you don't break it as the fan goes up with the engine. When installing the pan I've read that using cotton thread to tie the gasket on to the pan on every other hole is a good idea. I've not done that, but have been very careful to ensure that the gasket didn't slip into the pan as I was installing it. And one way I did that was to use long bolts to start the combo in every other hole, put factory bolts in the intervening holes, and then replace the long ones with factory bolts. The long bolts lets the pan hang down enough you can see that the gasket is in place before gradually pulling the pan up to the engine with the short factory bolts. And, I frequently use RTV on the gasket. But, RTV makes the gasket SLICK! So I don't try to torque the bolts down until the next day after the RTV sets up. Just snug it up and let it set.

If the accelerator pump isn't working on an Edelbrock it could be either clogged discharge nozzles or a clogged check ball. Debris in the tank can do that, so if you find that's the case then you either need to put another filter on or clean/replace the tank. I've been successful in cutting down on the crud coming through by running one of the see-through plastic filters ahead of the fuel pump. But, in reality the better thing to do is to get rid of the crud. And the best way to do that is to replace the tank. They only cost ~$100. I tried cleaning a tank once by sloshing 3 - 4 gallons of gas in the tank along with a chain to break up the crud. Poured that out and added another 3 or so gallons and went again. And again, and again. I think we went through 15 - 20 gallons of gas, which at the time was about $50, and at the end we were still getting crud out. But I put the tank back on and pretty quickly clogged the accelerator pump discharge nozzles. That's when I put the 2nd filter on ahead of the pump, and that cut down on the plugging problem. But if I were doing it again I'd put in a new tank and know I have a clean system.

Why not go into what you plan to do to the bike on here? I have a thread on water rockets. And I did on the boat's batteries. Bill has his Lebaron. Etc. Anyway, congrat's!

When I had Scotty @ Parkland Performance build my 460 he recommended a standard volume, standard pressure pump. So that's what I went with.

Sorry to see that, Shaun. But I'll bet she sure appreciates you. Well done!

Well, its been 4 hours and the experts haven't shown up. But let me jump in here. First, I'm trying to determine what the original yoke is, but I don't know what tranny it had originally. It wasn't the M5OD was it? Regardless, from the Application tab at Documentation/Driveline/Driveshafts it looks like an '84 shortbed (116" wb) with a 5.0L and with any manual tranny would take slip yoke #117. And on the Slip & Flange Yoke tab I see that #117 translates to E1TZ 4841-B. And tomorrow I might slip out to the shop and see if I can crossref that to an ID #. But the MPC doesn't have an E1TW prefix for any yoke. Obviously that the ID # since it is on the part, but sometimes the MPC gives both the part and the ID #. Not this time. As for why the ring, it is surely just to take out the pulses. And as long as the slip part of the yoke is the same length I don't see why you can't interchange them. So the one with the ring would my choice.

Would make a really strong 240.