Gary Lewis

Seat has to come back out to fix a couple of loose thread pieces and to fix the lazy patch panels somebody has done, so no worries there, and I'm not sure what you mean by sticks? I had to pull the whole dash back out, remove the ducting, install the harness the right way, and then put the ducts back on, and reinstall the dash. Time consuming, but it was the right way to do it and made for an easy re-install. Sticks = shift levers. Stick shift?

Those are the ones that I think look like they belong in a bathroom holding towels. There was one mounted haphazardly on Dad's truck's dash when I got it. Yuk!

I kinda know the feeling. Although I had fewer to drill than you did, there were still a lot. And a lot of rivets to remove. Certainly not a bolt-in upgrade.

Scott - Thanks, but that looks like it would drop the visors a couple of inches, and I don't think I'd like that. The highliner only drops the visors the thickness of the ABS, which has to be only an 1/8" or so, and I kind of like that. I need to figure out what switches I need and if the radio bezel is going to provide enough space for them. If not, some might go in the highliner.

Yes, Max, the gauges look great. But that filter looks awful! What's in there? Can you tell?

A link bar attached to that adapter, running to the opposite side of the chassis, would be really helpful in my opinion, especially when using a dropped Pitman arm. Yes, that would firm things up nicely. I'd not seen nor heard of those.

It is bolt-in. All of the electrical connections are the same, the steering wheels are the same, the lower steering shafts, etc. The only thing you want to make sure of is that the tilt column you get isn't broken. There's a piece in them that is known to break, and the repair is described here: Documentation/Interior/Steering Columns.

Yep, that's a beaut!

Looking good, Shaun!

No fun! I hope all the tests turn up nothing and you are healthy! But look like you are getting a lot done at the house.

The key to getting the butterflies aligned correctly is to leave the screws slightly loose and slowly close the throttle while moving the butterflies. Once you get the throttle closed and the butterflies fit neatly in the bores tighten the screws down.

Looks like it is a bed mat, but I don't know much more than that. In 1985 and later I see this: 112A15 MAT (UTILITY CARGO)-Serviced only in Kit, Group 642A94 And then when I look for that number I find this in both '85 and '86, as well as later. But nowhere do I find E5TZ 99112A15-B. It is apparently just part of that kit and wasn't sold separately.

Rob - Thanks! That was fast. There's no hurry. But you nailed it. Answers a lot of questions. As for the wires, I think routing through the back is the way to go.

Thanks, Ray. Good before and after, and I like the round old-school headlight far better.

Sorry. I forgot the yoke goes into the tranny. I’m used to the two sets of splines being on the driveshaft and the yoke going to the tranny’s output flange via a u-joint. Your splines are lubed via ATF, and there’s usually very little wear on either the home or the tranny if the tranny has been kept lubed. So choose whichever yoke fits best. And pre-lube the yoke outside and in.

Yes, nice! Hope the paint comes off easily.

I think I like the headlight, but show me a before and after. I'm not sure what the original headlight looked like. But, I can't imagine we'll ride much while it is dark on the TAT.

Pretty! For a 1980 or 1981.

That's really COOL! I've never seen one of those. Yes, the right tool at the right time is invaluable!

That makes sense. Thanks, Shaun.

Sorry, I'm fresh out. Maybe someone has one?

As a grandpa, I'm sure he would.

You are having so much FUN! WOW! So the O2 sensor is dead? That might be a problem. Did it get fried?

Very nice! You must really be proud of it.

Those are good ideas! Thanks.