Gary Lewis

Yes, it is good progress. But I'm confused on why you didn't use the lines off the donor truck instead of changing the fitting? They should have just gone right on with no changes needed at all.

Made a bit more progress today. Started with cleaning out the condenser. It was initially plugged completely with junk in the ends of the inlet/outlet tubes. I cleaned them out and it it with compressed air and the air flowed - reluctantly. So I put quite a bit of brake cleaner in it and took it outside and hit with air. Awful stuff came out! So I hit it with more cleaner and tilted the thing back and forth to ensure the liquid got to all of the tube surfaces, and then put air through it. More bad stuff but it was now flowing. So I did that over and over until the flow was easy and what came out was clean. Sent a text to my nephew and he suggested I get some A/C flush and run through it 'cause some brake cleaner corrodes aluminum. Pretty sure O'Reilly's doesn't, but I got the flush and ran it through several times, tilting it back and forth and then blowing it out. Since the condenser appears to be good, I used a "comb" and took out several dings in the fins. Then I started installing it. But I'd removed the sheet metal nuts to have the radiator support painted, so I rounded up the right nuts and bolts and tried to install the condenser - and ran into two problems. First, one of the sheet metal nuts broke - inside the support with the bolt stuck in it. So I got the Dremel and couldn't quite get to it. Given that, I got the bolt cutters out. It took both arms and everything I had to cut the bolt. And when it did cut it the bolt cutters smacked me in the forehead! I originally thought it had broken my nose, but it appears the blood came from the forehead. But, I got the bolt off and the condenser on: However, I did discover some interference where the condenser hits the support, so I need to do some trimming. It hits where the red mark is, although it is hard to tell. Then I turned to the evaporator and tried to flush it. But I can just barely get air through and I can't get much of the cleaner out w/o just turning it upside down. So I came to the conclusion that the expansion valve might be involved, and turned to the 1995 FSM. Here's what it says: So, apparently it is in here? How do I get it out?

You are now, quite literally, on the map! And, by the way, you should create a signature. How to do that is in Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's.

Christian - I got this back from Keith Dickson, our member that now works for LMC: "I contacted TMI directly and they confirmed that the brackets available through LMC are for standard cab and crewcab applications only. They don't have a bracket specific to the Supercabs and Broncos, though they do have a universal bracket that will work with modifications." So, the bracket in their catalog you are looking at will not fit your truck. But, the brackets you show in the pictures should. Have you tried them? Pull your seat and see if they'll fit.

Welcome! Really nice truck. 28 years? That's a long time. Where's home? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Members Map in the menu) and we'd be happy to add you if we had a city or zip.

Doesn't matter what year. All NP208's, at least in the Bullnose era, had the same input shaft. And, for that matter, all Ford transmissions in the Bullnose era had the same spline count on the output shaft, so any transfer case fits any transmission. Make sure he is talking AOD. You said A4OD, but we usually call it an AOD. However, Ford called it an AOT.

I believe he is mistaken on the transfer case input shaft. I don't know for sure what transfer case you have, but if you go here (Documentation/Driveline/Transfer Cases) and then go to the Applications tab you'll see that an '85 Bronco should have an NP208. And note that it will take Parts list # 70.F. (Also note that all 208's take 70.A through F.) Then go to NP208 tab and look at the Illustrations tab. There you'll see that the input shaft is #7017. Now click on the Parts List tab and scroll down to 7017 and you will see that there is one input shaft for every parts list, meaning A through F: E0TZ 7017-A. Said another way, there is only one input shaft for all NP208's regardless of year, transmission, etc. And you have it in your t-case.

I assume these are the blue seats you mean. Ok, let's take this seat by seat. On our page at Documentation/Interior/Seats & Seat Tracks you can go to the tab called Illustrations and then Seat Track Illustrations. And then scroll down to the last illustration, the one below, which is for the passenger's bucket seat. In real life, those parts look like this. The thing on the left as well as the one laying on the other part are 6257 in the illustration above. Do you have those? And the big thing in this pic is the rest of that illustration. Do you have it? All of that is required to bolt a bucket or captain's chair into your truck. Then on the driver's side here's the illustration for the base: And here's a pic of part of that. Note that these don't have the sliders on them, but you can see what they look like: Do you have all of that stuff for the buckets? If so, then it should all bolt in to a Supercab.

80/87 F-U100/350 — integral A/C or Hi-Low vent E0TZ 18471—C Upper

LOL! Yes, maybe so. Still need to get my birthday poster of Ford trucks through the years framed.

Yes, maybe the seats aren't from Ford. So if he were to pull up the carpet or mat he could tell.

That's neat! But I'm out of wall space and that is expensive.

I understand what you said, but I don't understand why that is the case. I really am confused as I thought that if the seats bolt into one Supercab they'll bolt into another. And "Supercab" is one with the little back seat and small side window with no extra doors. I know it would be a pain, but can you take pictures of your floor vs your friend's floor, maybe with tape measures laid in? I really would like to understand why things are different.

I'm glad things are going well. On the seats, if I remember correctly you are swapping seats with another Bullnose - right? And that truck must either be a Supercab or a Bronco as those were the only ones that got the buckets. (Actually captain's chairs, as the buckets were lower and w/o arm rests.) And yours is a Supercab. So I'm confused as to why the seats won't directly swap. Can you say more about that? As for LMC's brackets, they are designed to adapt their "Signature Series Seats" to a wide range of vehicles. The one you mentioned, 49-5765, supposedly adapts their seats to a Bullnose truck. HOWEVER, there are two different floor pans for our trucks - regular cabs & crew cabs have one front floor pan and Broncos and supercabs have another. And LMC doesn't tell us which floor pan that bracket fits. So, there are two big questions: Will that bracket fit your truck, and if it does can you mount those seats to it? On the question of if it'll fit, I will contact my friend, and member on here, Keith Dickson to tell him that it looks like there's a bust in his catalog since it doesn't tell which floor pan that bracket fits. But he won't be able to tell you if the bracket will fit your seat. So I go back to not understanding why your seat won't fit your friend's truck and why his buckets won't bolt into yours. Please explain?

Nice truck. The nose-mounted spare was typical back then, usually as a result of having a camper in the bed. This one has a 5th-wheel hitch in the bed, so may have been used to pull a big trailer. It is set up the way I should have set up my '72, with a manual tranny instead of the C6. But I went with 3.73 rear gears, and I'd be worried that this one with 3.54's wouldn't have the torque in 4th to handle big hills. Also, I didn't know that seats like that were an option. Don't remember that in '72.

Yes, Jim, that would do it. Something about the pickup in the distributor is wrong, and it may well bite you even someday w/o the vacuum hooked up.

Growing up we had a Servel fridge and it used ammonia. A gas flame heated the ammonia and caused the circulation. It worked, but you didn't want to hold the door open very long as it was slow to recover. And it didn't make ice very fast, especially in the summer in a house w/o A/C 'cause the temp differential dropped and the process didn't work as well. But, of course, that was the time when you needed the most ice, so... Anyway, while a modern compressor-based system wouldn't have those problems, I can't see using ammonia in a vehicle where the constant flexing makes leaks probable at some point. And accidents could release a nasty cloud.

I wasn't aware that propane is making a comeback as a refrigerant. But, after a bit of reading I find it certainly is. However, mainly in stationary cooling systems, not vehicles. But, I think I'll stay mainstream and go with R-134a. Readily available and it looks like this system has been converted to it.

Family comes first. And friends of family second - just before trucks. Sounds like you have tomorrow lined up.

Somehow the leads on the pickup in the distributor are shorting or opening up when the vacuum moves it. I would open up the distributor with the engine off, pull a vacuum on the hose and see what happens with the wires.

LOL! Even Janey said it looks like something that belongs on the international space station. Speaking of "blowing cold", I had a conversation with Brandon/Bruno2 this morning. He's still working on his son Kris' truck's A/C, and he's come to the conclusion that his combination of components is at fault. He's using R512A, which he's used very successfully in other 134A systems, but he went with the smallest oriface available this time and thinks that combo may be causing the problem. He's going to change out the oriface tube and report back. That conversation got me to thinking about maybe going with 512, but then I realized that I'm trying to make every decision with regard to what my offspring might run into if they need to have the truck serviced. And thinking of it what way made it obvious that the mainstream 134A is the way to go.

Interesting. 5th or 6th picture? I'll have to try that.

Bill - It doesn't have to come apart. Takes two people or a looooong pole, but it isn't that hard to do. Jim - Big Blue is the first Bullnose I've had which had A/C that worked. But, I wasn't impressed, in spite of the A/C shop saying the numbers were spot-on. So, while you are missing something, it isn't the best thing since sliced bread.

On the "Insert Image" acting up, do you mean that you can't see the whole of the pop-up? If that's the case hit Control+ (Control & plus) or Control- (Control & minus) at the same time. That changes the zoom for the screen either up or down and usually brings the pop-up into view. I'm not very experienced with the alignment adjustments, so will let other comment on that.

Congrat's!!! Such a good feeling when you finally get to drive it. And there's always something or somethings, plural, that need to be ironed out. I think the engine compartment looks great. Not busy at all. As for the vibration in 4th, I'm guessing an ignition problem. Like a bad wired or a bad plug. Or a wire that's not on fully. I say that because when you are in 4th at low speeds and trying to accelerate you cause high pressure in the cylinders, which makes it hard for the spark to jump the gap in the plug. So the spark is looking for somewhere, anywhere to go and if there's a problem that's when it'll show up.