Gary Lewis

Well, sorta: 1A398 LATCH ASSY. (SPARE WHEEL CARRIER) 84/88 B — swing-away carrier "Before 6/88" E4TZ 1A398-A We'd want: 80/87 U150 — swing-away carrier EOTZ 1A398-A

17752 ARM (FRONT BUMPER) 80/ E350 (RH) EOTZ 17752-A Inner and outer

Yes, she IS cool! And we've had a blast. Man, what I'd give to do it all again! And, while the engines could normally run all day at WOT, they did tend to get warm. The going thing at the time was a pair of side scoops. I had one designed that I could cut and bend out of a sheet of aluminum, but I never made it. Not long after we took that trip we sold the VW. I think the transaxle was starting to go, IIRC, and we decided that we needed something more reliable.

No, it isn't that loud. I think you are going to be happy. But I hope you don't have any more wiring to go into that junction box.

Scotty confirmed that he starts them the first time on 20 BTDC and that spinning the engine is the best way to drop the dizzy. So I spun the engine over with the starter and the dizzy dropped - pointed at #8. :nabble_smiley_sad:But, after a couple more tries it is now sitting at 20 BTDC and pointing at #1. And the clamp is snugged down, but not tight. Plus, the dizzy is now plugged into the electrical system.Now, if I just had coolant and fuel.....

LOL! Yes, this may be a new level. But I certainly do plan to take some time "off" to enjoy the truck - and time with my wife. Got the oil in and the pump spun - probably four times. The first time I watched the oil pressure switch go from closed to open on the NC contacts. Then I switched contacts and watched the NO contacts, the ones that run the fuel pump, close as the pressure came up. Then I put the camera on the aftermarket gauge and got the video below. But, Scotty answered my note and asked what brand & model the cooler is. Told him that I don't know as it was on the truck when I got it, but it is 7" wide by 18" long and I provided a pic. And, that the best I can tell, the oil level is sitting just about Full on the dipstick, although that's really hard to tell with a new engine and oil. Then I moved on to trying to get the dizzy to drop. Can't do it, so I guess I'm going to have to bump the starter. Shame as I have it sitting at 20 BTDC, which is where Scotty told me to set the timing for the initial startup.

The investigation phase of that project is done. Now I have all the parts. However, with 12' ceilings I need to get the extension ladder in to get up to several of the lights, and right now that's not on the top of my priority list.

Glad you got it. I assume just now? Today's mailing of the other half of the members? As for the classes, it says they are: Best Engine; Best Upgrades; People's Favorite; Closest To Stock; Ugliest Truck; & Best Story. So are you saying that Bullnose trucks are so pretty that the ugliest Bullnose couldn't possibly beat another ugly truck?

Well, maybe not.

That is really cool! You found a winner.

Yes, I may just keep cranking the pressure until it pops the vent. And, I'll certainly check the clamps after a few heat cycles. Now for the final, I think, shots of the clutch slave. I put the heat shield on the hose and then got creative with aluminum tape on the boot you sent. And, before you ask, the distance from the end of the boot to the header is 2 1/2".

Congrat's! Don't know why I didn't think to suggest using the old fuel pump.

Jim - "Going as fast as it would putt along" is absolutely spot-on. And that wasn't very fast. The entrance at the time to the bridge from the side street was basically a hard right turn. So you were down to maybe 15 MPH. The speed limit on the bridge was 45 MPH, and getting there wasn't easy - by the end of the bridge. We took that VW to Arkansas in '69 or '70. Janey was driving and I went back to the bed. Pretty soon I looked out as we were flying down a hill, obviously with the throttle on the floor. All I could see out of that narrow back window was "A C" on the hood of the semi behind us. I said "Whatever you do do NOT lift that throttle!" That guy was glued to our rear bumper until he could pass. Anyway, your t-case looks rough! I sure hope the pump works well. And, all the other parts get in SOON!

I knew of the one to the throttle body, which is what I assumed this was for. In fact, IIRC one of my throttle bodies has the places for the fittings cast into it, although not drilled nor tapped. But didn't know about the one for the early E4OD's. I wonder why they did that?

Ahhhh! Dawn! Marblehead! That makes sense.

Question on the chart. The psi for a given temp I take it outside air temp and is it the high or low side psi? If high and you can't read the high side what can you do? Thanks Dave ---- This chart is from RechargeAC.com, and it doesn't jive with Bill's chart. Nor do many of the other charts I've looked at. Bill's chart says that whatever pressure that is should be 124 psi at 100 degrees ambient. This one says that the the low pressure should be 50 - 55 psi and the high pressure should be 315 - 325 psi at 100 degrees. That's a big difference. But I will say that having recently checked the pressures on the Subie, which uses R134a, the pressures pretty well matched this chart.

That makes sense, but having had that adapter off and turned 12 way from Sunday in my hands, I sure didn't see any extra bolt holes or controls that might bypass it. I think I'm just going to add the oil, spin the pump up, and see what happens. And I'll put my DVM across the oil pressure switch so I can watch it as I spin the pump. Then I may put my phone in the cab to video the aftermarket oil pressure gauge to see what kind of pressure it goes to. Anyway, I should then know that all of the fittings are tight. And I can get the dizzy dropped down and clamped down - lightly so I can rotate it if need be. The HVAC gaskets are due in tomorrow so Thursday I should be able to button up the HVAC system, finish the heater hose installation, and pour in the coolant. Which brings me to my next thought - testing the cooling system. There's a fitting on the radiator neck for a small hose to go somewhere. I've assumed it was for the preheat for the EFI system, but it is capped on Big Blue. I've thought about using my new "bleeding tool" to put 15 psi on that fitting and checking to see if I have a leak somewhere. I once lost a newly-rebuilt engine 'cause I blew a hose off when the pressure came up. So I'm just being cautious. I don't want any problems when I fire the engine to break in that cam.

Oh, man! Ours took more than focus. We lived west of the Arkansas river and I worked east of it. I remember crossing that bridge going home one night with a strong wind out of the north. I was thinking "I have to catch this thing when I get to the end of the bridge!" I told my buddy to hold on and when we hit the end I turned right - and it still moved into the left lane.

Nice truck, but $33K is a bit much.

Yes, welcome! Jim is right on the pics - invert them in another app and post them. I've done that with your pic so we can see your truck. Where's home? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could add you if we had a city or a zip.

Jochen - Good to hear from you! Nice camper. But hope you get to come back to the States next year. Before we bought our '72 F250 with the 9 1/2' slide-in camper we had a VW Type 2 that had been converted to a camper. But, it wasn't one of the fancy one with a pop-up nor kitchen. And at 36 HP it couldn't get out of its own way.

It is a Ford part, so maybe I mis-typed. Bypass meaning that when the oil is cold it'll bypass the cooler. So, when I spin the pump up and then let it sit I probably won't get oil into the cooler. But does the cooler drain back to the sump anyway when the engine is off? If so, does the system have too little oil when running and the oil is hot? I'm confused and probably confusing y'all.

Interesting. I wonder why they say the '86 and later system takes more refrigerant? Larger evap or condenser?

I agree the metal/braided hose is better. No doubt. I'm just wondering how best to protect even it as well as the slave cylinder. I think I'll leave the hose coming in from the side and put the heat wrap on it. That will keep the line as far away from the header as is possible, and provide a bit more protection to the line itself. And since I didn't have any problems before and I now have ceramic-coated headers, it ought to be even better. On the oil, at your suggestion I did send Scotty a note. We'll see what he says, but I'm guessing that I should fill it with 6 quarts, spin the oil pump up, and then let it sit for 15 minutes and check the level. I'm going to bet that it'll be a pint low given the size of that oil cooler. However, if I remember correctly the adapter is a temp-controlled unit. Will it send oil to the cooler in my test?