Gary Lewis

Got the HVAC system wired up today. But just before I did the soldering and added the heat-shrink tubing I got to wondering about the "medium" setting wiring. The setting show as M1 and M2, and there was something about the 1996 EVTM's layout that bugged me. As it turns out, it is wrong. I corrected the previous post, and here's the corrected wiring: And, as I was running the A/C clutch wires I discovered that both wires had a butt crimp in them. So I removed the crimps and extended the wires a bit as they'd been shortened for some reason. Then, at the absolute and of the day I though I'd test the cooling system. Here's the setup, with the test regulator I put together recently and the hose going to the port on the radiator's neck. But what you can't tell from the pic is that at just 4 psi I had a serious leak! With a hose to my ear I started checking and discovered that the air was coming out at the back of the thermostat housing. Here's a pic of the gasket after I pulled the housing off. Note that the area at the back and at the front has more black RTV showing than at the bolt areas. And here's the bottom of the housing. What you can't really see w/o holding the thing just right is that the bolt areas are higher than the front and back. Looks like I need to replace this thing, and it is marked F0TE 8594-BA. Boy, I sure am glad I tested the cooling system!!!!

If you are asking whether to go with long-tubes or not, I'll say yes. But you said "The headers are really annoying", so I'm not sure. You will hear a lot of people say "No way, Jose!" I think they've had cheap headers and the thin flanges warped and let the gaskets leak. I didn't have any trouble with the L&L's on Big Blue, probably because of the 1/2" thick flange. But, I've not run this new set yet, so can't say about them.

But, it serves a useful purpose if you have big tires, so why throw them away?

I can't find E47h 19808 aa in the cross-ref. Not saying it isn't there as it should be, but I can't find it. However, I did send Bill/Numberdummy a note. Maybe he can help.

Gary, very much appreciate all that you have done and continue to do here. You too, Jim. I've been real needy lately but the two of you and a few other members have always been prompt and willing to help me out. I am grateful. This is a labor of love. And I enjoy helping. Gives me a sense of contribution. But things are getting a bit hectic at the moment, so I really appreciate the others jumping in. Many hands make the load light.

Hmmm, this reminded me of the attack on Pearl Harbor and what statement has been attributed to Isoroku Yamamoto... "I fear all we have done is to awaken a sleeping giant". The mighty 460 will soon awaken! Lol! I hope! It sure has been sleeping for quite a while. Not sure about the “giant” part though. 😉

As I told Janey a few minutes ago, I can't remember anything between now and 1969, but I have pretty good recall of the 60's. (A jingle that plays on the radio station I listen to says "If you remember the 60's you weren't really there", so I guess we know who the straight-arrow was.) My "truck" time these days is being split between getting things lined out for the show and alerting everyone, adding pages to the website, working in the background to getting a new home for the forum, answering email about trucks, and working on Big Blue. I'm happy to help people, but don't want to spend the time to figure out what they have if it could have been in the signature. So I'm envious of you'uns that can remember the details.

The number 18532 doesn't appear in the MPC. I'll see if I can cross-ref it when I get out to the shop. Would really be interesting to see if the one in that B-II can be used in an F-Series. Or if there's one in an '87/88 Bronco that will. Note in the snippet below that there was one for 1987/88 Broncos before 4/88 and one for 88 Broncos after 4/88. And that the 87/89 control mentions "vac system". Does that imply that not all had vacuum systems? From my time perusing the MPC I've come to believe that many different people entered the data. So it might have been a different person that added the "87/89" line than did the earlier ones. And, one person could have assumed we should know that they have vacuum while another might not. I'm going to ask Bill/Numberdummy.

My point exactly. The info is two pages back. That would take time I don't have to find. I'll look at the signatures and go from there.

I remember the bearings to be a real pain on the 1345. So I can understand the problem.

Thanks, Jim. I don't have time to go back and read the whole thread. I looked at the signature and it said "1982 Bronco - 5.0L/C6". So, without further guidance, I assumed the stock 2150 was still on there. (Hint, hint, hint, .... )

Hey, let's do better than luck. I'm praying it works, and works well.

On the wind speed through the vents, some of us have modified the wiring to include a relay in the high speed circuit. If you look at the wiring (Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1985 EVTM/AC-Heater) you'll see that the blower motor is powered by an orange wire, but then the ground side is run through the resistor pack and then back to the switch in the dash before going to ground. One relay can't handle 4 speeds, but it is only High where you really want the maximum flow of air. So we put a relay by the blower motor and have it go to ground right there. It helps.

If I can get my hands on a couple crossmembers, I'll figure out a way to fix those horns...lol. The engine crossmember is quite solid, so you can use it to pull from. You could pull the driver's side horn back that way. But that won't align it vertically. However, it'll require pushing the passenger's side if you use the engine crossmember, so that would take a hydraulic ram or a high-lift jack.

You are now on the map. Happy to help.

I had fits with a 2150, which is the Motorcraft 2bbl that you probably have, plugging the discharge jets with rust. That's when I went to two filters. So if you pull the nozzles be sure to clean them, and if you are going to stick something through them be sure to use something softer than they are, like small copper wire. I like to use a strand from a piece of stranded wire.

Does it have a # on it? I might be able to cross-ref to a part #.

That's an interesting control! I'd love to have all that flexibility. I checked our page at Documentation/HVAC/HVAC Systems and we didn't have the Bronco/U-Series controls in. I've added the ones for the Bullnose trucks, but you are talking about the later Broncos as well as the BII, so I'll give the later part of the full list here. The "B" is the Bronco II, and if you can get an ID # of it I should be able to cross-ref to a part #.

I am pretty sure the condenser itself will fit. I just put a 1990 condenser in my '85. But, the lines are completely different. So you'll have to either convert completely to the later system, which I did, or have custom hoses made.

Yes, I think that is very possible. I just, today, put a 1990 underhood plenum on my '85 and it fit like a glove, although you have to make a minor change to the wiring and vacuum lines. And Bill/85lebaront2 has put a later in-cab A/C system in his '86. But he'd be the one to ask about that specifically.

Yes, some place you are obviously getting air in. A hard line or maybe a bad connection between the rubber and hard lines?

No guys, I led you astray. What I should have said is that any sender from any FDM will screw onto any other FDM. Sorry. I could make a bracket to put a Bullnose sender on an FDM. The Bullnose senders have a smaller hole spacing so it would be possible to do that. But my intent has been to build it now so it can be maintained. Tell them it is a 1995 truck and they can buy FDM's and put them right in, and the Arduino will translate. In other words, I'm trying to future-proof it.

Yes, it IS! Hope you have some to report.

Did some work on the fuel delivery modules today, and took some pics along the way. Here's a shot of a full FDM, showing the sending unit side and how it attaches: Here's the other side showing the connections: And here are two different sending units, either of which will bolt right on any of the FDM's. And here's an FDM taken apart. The piece at the top is the "hanger" that is mentioned in many of the advertisements. Then below that is the FDM itself, with the piece on the left which has the pump and valves. That piece goes into the housing on the right, and it snaps in with so many snaps that it is very difficult to get apart, and I don't believe replacing the pump itself is worth it. And in all of the advertisements they say if you don't replace that filter/sock you void the warranty. Want to know why? Take a look at what was in this one: